Expert’s Choice: 18 of the best new-wave Airén from Spain

In the early 1990s, Airén was the world’s most widely planted wine grape, with almost 480,000ha in Spain. But according to the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture, by 2023 the surface under vine had decreased dramatically to 190,000ha.

EU subsidies for grubbing-up and vineyard restructuring are to thank for this. In 2022, Tempranillo surpassed Airén as Spain’s number one variety.

Today, Castilla-La Mancha, the vast region covering Spain’s southern plateau, accounts for 187,045ha, according to ministry data to July 2023, followed by Madrid (2,248ha) to the north and Murcia (573ha) in the southeast.

Where do all these grapes go? Airén’s high yields and neutral aromatic character make it ideal for distillation. The practice was long driven by the brandy industry – legendary Sherry producer Pedro Domecq opened a distillery in Tomelloso (Ciudad Real, south of Madrid) as early as the 1870s – although it has lost some momentum since 2011, when European subsidies were withdrawn.

Other significant pillars include bulk wine, grape must and must concentrates, all often sustained by high-yielding, irrigated vineyards.

The wines featured here come from a very different scenery.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 new-wave Airén wines

Modern revival

They are from old, traditional, dry-farmed vineyards, often planted to very low densities by the parents, grandparents or even great-grandparents of those who farm them.

It has taken two small twists to change the way people look at those pieces of land and to begin to treasure them: the natural wine movement, with its anti-technology, non-interventionist crusade; and the new generation of wine producers, who believe in the potential of their land, take pride in it and want to put it in a bottle.

The first serious approach to Airén came from an outsider. Alejandro Fernández, the man behind Pesquera in Ribera del Duero, in Spain’s northwest, combined his and the variety’s name to make Alejairén, a white wine aged in barrels at his DO La Mancha winery in Campo de Criptana (Ciudad Real).

However, the modern realisation of Airén’s potential has to be credited to Bodegas Verum. Winemaker Elías López Montero, keen to add a quality wine project to the family’s distillation and bulk wine business, released Las Tinadas and placed the magical words ‘Airén de Pie Franco’ (ungrafted Airén) on the label.

In Jumilla, in the southeast, where Airén has a residual presence, brothers Carlos and Juanjo Cerdán of Bodegas Cerrón have set a new price ceiling for the variety with El Cerrico, which is taking on cult status. The grapes come from an ungrafted Airén vineyard planted by their great-grandfather.

Global recognition

International praise for these wines has helped to raise the profile of Airén (this article is proof of that) and to highlight the small producers who were already paying some attention to this variety in their portfolios.

This means recognising the virtues of neutral, low-aroma varieties (the great model is Sherry’s Palomino) to bring out sapidity, saltiness or earthy notes. Those looking for fruit probably won’t feel at ease with Airén.

Exploring winemaking techniques such as skin contact and ageing under flor involves a whole new range of styles. Our selection includes pét-nats, skin-contact wines and a rancio (oxidative style). In terms of ageing vessels, the tinaja (clay amphora) seems to be a perfect match for Airén.

This makes perfect sense, because clay was the most common material used in the Castilla-La Mancha area in the past. It’s a great pity that the last clay craftspeople, such as Juan Padilla, are in the process of disappearing.

Airén can also produce balanced wines with relatively low levels of alcohol. Its long growing cycle, tolerance to drought and seemingly perfect adaptation to the region are all advantages when approached from a philosophy of quality, and when relying on old, dry-farmed vineyards with naturally limited yields.

Cervera’s best of contemporary Airén:

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