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Anson: Do ungrafted vines change the taste of wine?

Jane Anson reports from a tasting led by pioneering winemakers from around the world, exploring how grafted and ungrafted vines affect the character of wine and revisiting received wisdom about the spread of phylloxera.

The list of winemakers in the room was already pretty special, comprising;

  • François Chidaine, Loire Chenin Blanc specialist
  • Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, Loire Sauvignon Blanc specialist
  • Maxime Graillot, Northern Rhône Syrah specialist
  • Jacky Rigaux, Burgundy
  • Francesco Marone Cinzano of Erasmo, Chile

alongside owners, winemakers and viticulturalists from estates as varied as:

  • Tenuta della Terre Nere; Etna, Italy
  • Tenuta San Francesco; Amalfi Coast, Italy
  • Domaine Philippe Charlopin; Gevrey Chambertin, France
  • Weinguït JJ Prüm; Mosel, Germany
  • Artemis Karamolegos; Santorini, Greece
  • Adega Viuva Gomes; Colares, Portugal
  • Bodega Juan Matias Torres; La Palma, Canaries
  • La Tour Melas, Achinos; Greece
  • Champagne Chartogne-Taillet; Champagne, France

Each estate had brought a few precious bottles of invariably low-yield, low-production wines to Bordeaux for two days of comparing the impact of grafted against ungrafted vines.


See Jane Anson’s ungrafted wine tasting notes and scores


More recent columns from Jane Anson: 

Remembering Harold Olmo: the Indiana Jones of viticulture

Tasting two decades of Château d’issas


 

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