Expert’s Choice: Frappato

When it comes to modern wine-drinking sensibilities, it’s clear that more and more people are turning to lighter styles of red wine with less noticeable oak (or none at all), and lower alcohol levels.

Frappato is one of a number of grape varieties answering to this growing trend, offering a perfect match of varietal character and terroir expression with its charmingly perfumed, light-bodied reds.

Scroll down for notes and scores of 18 delicious Frappato wines

Family trees

DNA analyses have demonstrated that the thin-skinned and vigorous yet low-yielding Frappato is the result of a natural crossing of Sangiovese and another, as yet unidentified, grape.

The wines certainly bear that Sangiovese-esque hallmark of bright red fruit, but Frappato has a lighter body and lighter tannins, with a more fragrant character typically leaning towards strawberries, raspberries and blackberries.

Although Frappato is almost exclusively grown in Sicily, there are a handful of wines being produced in California and South Australia. But the variety is perfectly adapted to the conditions in its heartland of Vittoria.

Situated in the baking-hot province of Ragusa in Sicily’s southeast, Vittoria lies on a similar latitude to Tunis in North Africa.

Equidistant from the Hyblaean mountains (‘Monti Iblei’) and the sea, the area benefits from constant breezes that significantly limit the threat of mildew and other diseases.

As a result, a notable proportion of wines here are made from organically or biodynamically farmed grapes.

The breezes also help to expel the warm air at night, allowing for high diurnal temperature swings that preserve acidity and aromatic compounds in the grapes.

Moderate alcohol

The typical soil in Vittoria is a thin layer of red sand over compact limestone. ‘This is what makes Vittoria special,’ explains Giusto Occhipinti of Cos winery. ‘It gives longevity [in the mouth] and lower alcohol.’

The sandy, well-drained topsoils don’t retain water, encouraging the vines to dig deep into the limestone bedrock.

The poor soils and lack of water prevent an accumulation of sugars in the grapes, helping to ensure alcohol levels remain moderate.

Although Frappato is more resilient than other Sicilian varieties, such as Nero d’Avola, drought is an increasingly common occurrence and producers may need to support their vines with irrigation.

‘The future of viticulture is precision water management,’ asserts Gaetana Jacono, proprietor of Valle dell’Acate, a family-run estate that has been making wine in Vittoria since the 19th century.

As well as producing mono-varietal wines – typically labelled as Vittoria DOC or Terre Siciliane IGT – Frappato partners Nero d’Avola in Sicily’s only DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria.

The classic blend is 60/40 in Nero d’Avola’s favour, although some producers are tweaking this ratio to give Frappato more of a presence in the spotlight.

Frappato lends itself to being drunk slightly chilled, emphasising its gorgeously fragrant, thirst-quenching qualities on a summer’s afternoon.

Thanks to its light body and soft tannins, it’s also a great partner for all manner of foods; local winemakers are particularly fond of pairing chilled Frappato with fish.

The dexterity of Frappato: 18 wines in different styles

Related articles

• The rise and return of Italy’s indigenous varieties
• Arianna Occhipinti: Leading Frappato’s revival on Sicily
• A guide to Sicily’s native grape varieties