Expert’s Choice: South Africa Cinsault – the 30 wines to try
Some of South Africa’s most respected producers have been captivated by the quality potential of the country’s stock of old-vine Cinsault. Challenging to grow it may be, but the wines can be intriguing. Malu Lambert selects 30 top examples to try.
Blazing a trail up South Africa’s west coast, viticulturist Jaco Engelbrecht is on his way to Skerpioen, the sprawling old bush-vine vineyard rooted on white sand-limestone soils that produces the namesake Chenin Blanc-Palomino blend made by Eben Sadie for his Sadie Family Wines label. And right next to Skerpioen, in this arid coastal desert, Engelbrecht says he’s recently planted five rows of bush-vine Cinsault for Sadie.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 30 South Africa Cinsault wines to try
This isn’t surprising, given that Sadie’s old-vine, single-vineyard Pofadder red (see tasting notes below) was the catalyst for Cinsault’s fine wine reemergence in the Cape when it was released in 2009. Since then, more premium bottlings have joined it to form a tiny but impactful string of serious South African Cinsaults.
‘The challenge is, what do you do with it when the vines are young?’ Engelbrecht asks rhetorically. He says Cinsault only produces premium fruit as an older vine, and not many growers are willing to make the long-term economic commitment. ‘Cinsault is also difficult to manage. It’s not an upright grower, it can be sloppy; it quickly over-crops. Bush vines naturally limit the grape’s high productivity, but even then you need to crop it by almost 50%.’ And he admits: ‘Even though I’m a big advocate for Grenache in the Cape, the potential of old-vine Cinsault surpasses it.’
Respected viticulturist Rosa Kruger, recipient of the Decanter Hall of Fame 2022 award (the first South African so honoured), agrees that Cinsault is not an easy variety. ‘Even when the vines are older, the big leaves and bunches are prone to sunburn,’ she says. ‘Though it has a great future if handled properly in the vineyard.’ This finicky nature goes a long way to explaining why planting numbers are dwindling, in comparison to Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. SAWIS industry data for 2022 shows there are 1,694ha of Cinsault in the ground – the majority in Paarl and Breedekloof – compared to a total of 1,980ha in 2011.
However, just 145ha of this is deemed ‘old vine’ (35 years or older, as specified by Kruger’s Old Vine Project organisation) – though this does include South Africa’s oldest vineyard: a Wellington block dating to 1900. Stellenbosch, Swartland and Paarl have the most significant old-vine Cinsault holdings, the former two particularly important for premium expressions. And increasingly in demand is fruit from the coastal ward of Darling, where special pockets of ocean-influenced grapes make some of the Cape’s best Cinsault wines.
Then and now
From its origins in southern France, Cinsault is believed to have arrived in South Africa in the 1850s, under the guise of ‘Hermitage’. The grape’s true identity was only revealed almost a century later. Before that it caught the eye of Professor Abraham Perold, head of viticulture at Stellenbosch University who, in 1925, crossed it with Pinot Noir to produce South Africa’s own Pinotage.
Fast-forward to 1969 and Cinsault claimed some 13% of SA vineyards, compared to Chenin Blanc at 27% and Palomino at 16%, according to local wine authority Michael Fridjhon. By the 1970s, Cinsault assumed workhorse status as the nation’s most widely planted red grape, used prolifically (as were other hardy varieties) to resuscitate vineyards that had been decimated by phylloxera back in the late 19th century. High-yielding, the glut was used to bulk out and soften varietal bottlings of more expensive Cabernet Sauvignon, undisclosed on the label. Cinsault also had practical uses, literally being used to lubricate Cabernet’s tiny berries through the press. This practice became so widespread that many farmers planted some Cinsault vines at the end of rows for co-harvesting.
Though plantings may be at something of an impasse, and old-vine plots a hot commodity, Cinsault quality as well as the number of premium bottlings continues to rise. This is largely due to the star quality of the winemakers who are interested in it. Cinsault champions include Duncan Savage, Eben Sadie, Alex Milner, Donovan Rall, Adi Badenhorst and Andrea Mullineux, plus a growing cohort of rising stars. Their winemaking approach is undeniably new wave. Producers generally eschew new oak barrels and heavy-handed techniques in favour of more minimalist, low- intervention methods such as wild-yeast fermentation and old-oak ageing.
When mining for rare Cinsault jewels you’ll find rubied wines of startling complexity. Though big-berried on the vine, Cinsault is capable of delivering texture and tannin. The finer examples are light to medium-bodied, with moderately low alcohols. The best manage to balance Cinsault’s exotic aromas and red-fruited generosity with vivid acidity and tactile dryness.
South Africa Cinsault: 30 to try
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Natte Valleij, Cinsault, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2022
The unsung king of Cinsault Alex Milner makes a number of exceptional examples. In this superlative Stellenbosch edition, opulent florals spill out, with crushed stone...
2022
Natte ValleijHelderberg
The Sadie Family, Pofadder, Swartland, South Africa, 2022
The gnarly old bush vines for this world-class Cinsault lie in a cooler microclimate of the Swartland, the gentle hills of the Riebeeksrivier valley. There's...
2022
The Sadie Family
AA Badenhorst, Ringmuur, Swartland, South Africa, 2021
From a low-yielding vineyard dating back to 1963 surrounded by an old farm ‘ring wall’, hence the name. Like a walk through the farm itself:...
2021
AA Badenhorst
Leeu Passant, Old Vines Basson Cinsault, Wellington, South Africa, 2021
This wine has stories to tell. Grapes are from South Africa’s oldest registered red wine vineyard in Wellington, planted in 1900. Vinified by winemaker Andrea...
2021
Leeu Passant
Lukas van Loggerenberg, Lötter Cinsault, Franschhoek, South Africa, 2022
From South Africa's second oldest registered red wine vineyard, planted in 1932 by Koos Lötter. The 1.4ha block produces concerted pearls of pure flavour, bursting...
2022
Lukas van Loggerenberg
Lukas van Loggerenberg, Geronimo, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2022
Unrolling with dried herbs, savoury tomato leaf to sweeter tones of glacé cherries, flowers and mint. From a vineyard planted in 1978 in Firgrove, Stellenbosch,...
2022
Lukas van Loggerenberg
Natte Valleij, Cinsault, Darling, South Africa, 2022
<p>'This is the most isolated vineyard we work with,' says Alex Milner of the 45-year-old bush vines surrounded by wheat fields in this single vineyard...
2022
Natte Valleij
Savage, Follow the Line, Darling, South Africa, 2022
Coastal coolness thrums through this Darling Cinsault, from a 1982 block. Wild flowers, bramblewood, rose perfume, woody incense weave in with white pepper spice. A...
2022
Savage
Blackwater, Zeitgeist Cinsaut, Darling, South Africa, 2019
Flinty coastal coolness signals Darling fruit. Sourced from a hilly site, 39 years old at the time, which is under constant barrage by sea winds....
2019
Blackwater
Bruwer Vintners, Lone Wolf Cinsault, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2022
Enchanting aromatics of potpourri, boudoir powder, incense and candlewax shows just how pretty this variety can be. Standing alone in a larger Pinotage vineyard, this...
2022
Bruwer Vintners
City on a Hill, Song of Ascents, Swartland, South Africa, 2022
The own-label of Lammershoek’s vineyard manager André Bruyns (former winemaking assistant to David and Nadia Sadie). Delicate rose perfume meets deep red fruit, zested orange...
2022
City on a Hill
Kruger Family Wines, Old Vines Cinsault, Wellington, South Africa, 2022
Once a salaried winemaker, Johan Kruger has now gone on his own and is delivering superlative wines from unique parcels, such as this beauty from...
2022
Kruger Family Wines
Natte Valleij, Coastal Cinsault, Western Cape, South Africa, 2021
From five dryland bush vine parcels, ranging in age from 14 to 50 years, the grapes are wild fermented, then aged in concrete eggs, foudres...
2021
Natte Valleij
Naudé Wines, Werfdans, Swartland, South Africa, 2017
Showing Cinsault’s ability to age, with releases deliberately held back to showcase just this. The name Werfdans refers to the dust devils that dance around...
2017
Naudé Wines
Rall Wines, Cinsaut, Darling, South Africa, 2022
The way Donovan Rall can craft such subtle wines is a thing of beauty. Puffs of blossoms, lilies and roses, topped with tart red fruits,...
2022
Rall Wines
Wildeberg Wines, Terroirs Cinsault, Wellington, South Africa, 2022
From a single bush vine site in Wellington (planted 1974), the Franschhoek winery incorporated 30% whole-bunch fruit, imbuing a spicy-floral nose. Shaped by nine months...
2022
Wildeberg Wines
Illimis Wines, Cinsault, Darling, South Africa, 2022
Formerly employed under the research body of Winetech, rising star Lucinda Heyns recently decided to focus full time on her own label. From old Darling...
2022
Illimis Wines
Kleine Zalze, Project Z Cinsault, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2021
Project Z is the experimental arm of Stellenbosch winery Kleine Zalze. The grapes were harvested early and to concentrate the must a portion of juice...
2021
Kleine Zalze
Mother Rock, Force Celeste, Voor Paardeberg, Paarl, South Africa, 2022
Made by 'natural' winemaking enthusiast Johan 'Stompie' Meyer from dryland bush vines in the granitic Paardeberg. Crushed earthenware, red cherries and red flowers uncoil to...
2022
Mother RockVoor Paardeberg
Roodekrantz, 1954 Old Bush Vine Cinsaut, Paarl, South Africa, 2022
With an impressive portfolio of old-vine wines, Roodekrantz is South Africa’s hidden secret, for now. In order to express the grace of this venerable Paarl...
2022
Roodekrantz
Bosman Family Vineyards, Twyfeling Cinsault, Wellington, South Africa, 2021
Planted on what is known as a ‘heritage site’ as the previous vines here were also Cinsault from 1964. This now 20-year-old bush vine block...
2021
Bosman Family Vineyards
Craven Wines, Cinsault, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2022
From a vineyard planted just 3km from False Bay, sea breezes and wild flowers open this wine. Grapes are 100% destemmed so as not to...
2022
Craven WinesHelderberg
Eenzaamheid, Cinsault, Paarl, South Africa, 2021
From dryland bush vines planted in 1989. Fruit was destemmed, half undergoing spontaneous fermentation and 10% carbonic maceration, then ageing was in old 300L and...
2021
Eenzaamheid
Metzer, Cinsault, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2021
Exuberant red berries and cherries aromas seasoned with stemmy spice from 30% whole-bunch fruit. This single-vineyard dryland bushvine block planted in 1957 proffers such succulent,...
2021
MetzerHelderberg
Miles Mossop Wines, Chapter One, Swartland, South Africa, 2022
If this is the first chapter, I’d like to keep reading! Ethereal aromas of raspberries, crushed stones and hibiscus in bloom. Grapes underwent a natural...
2022
Miles Mossop Wines
Rock of Eye Wines, Cinsault, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2022
Winemaker Coenie Snyman has left his post at Stellenbosch winery Rust en Vrede to focus on his own label. From bush vines close to False...
2022
Rock of Eye Wines
Scions of Sinai, Nomadis Cinsaut, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2022
Seventh-generation winemaker-grower Bernhard Bredell is deeply dedicated to the old vines he farms in the Helderberg. The care shows in his clean, pure wines, all...
2022
Scions of SinaiHelderberg
Trizanne Signature Wines, TSW Cinsault, Swartland, South Africa, 2022
Immediate aromas of dust and roses, iron and earthy minerals – plenty of vibrant Swartland appeal. From 25-year-old dryland bush vines grown on Malmesbury shale...
2022
Trizanne Signature Wines
Roodekrantz Wines, Fuselage Staggerwing Old Vines Cinsault, Paarl, South Africa, 2020
Winemaker Danie Morkel has produced full, ripe Cinsault in 2020 from this 1954-planted vineyard. Heady, opulent kitchen garden aromas abound, then the palate unfurls into...
2020
Roodekrantz Wines
The Blacksmith Wines, Barebones Cinsault, Paarl, South Africa, 2022
Light, fun and fresh, showing sweet red apple juiciness, cherry and blackcurrant pastilles and zing of lemon-menthol freshness to balance salted caramel on the finish....
2022
The Blacksmith Wines
