Languedoc Roussillon Rhone
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Languedoc-Roussillon would generally be considered the underdog when set alongside Southern Rhône in a blind tasting like this one, which took place on Monday 3 February 2020.

The organiser clearly wanted to test the level of its own wine, La Madone, but none of its representatives – and no producers at all – were present during the event, which included an independent jury of 13 specialist journalists from France, Germany, the UK and USA.


Scroll down for James Lawther MW’s top-rated wines from the tasting


How the tasting was organised

To ensure impartiality, the tasting was also conducted by an independent supervisor, a sommelier for pouring and a huissier (judicial officer) to adjudicate the results.

This was the second tasting of this nature organised by négociant-producer Calmel & Joseph at the company domaine in Montirat, just outside Carcassonne.

Last year, Jérôme Joseph and Laurent Calmel assembled a flight of 22 of the Languedoc-Roussillon’s finest reds with a minimum retail price of €50.

This year, the selection was made from the highest scoring domaines and wines in two 2020 French wine guides, Bettane & Desseauve and La Revue du Vin de France, and included 24 wines from both the Languedoc-Roussillon and Southern Rhône.

The 50-50 split entailed reduced numbers from the Languedoc-Roussillon compared to the equivalent 2019 tasting, and the absence of some leading names.

The criteria for selection meant there was no place for last year’s overall winner, Roc d’Anglade Resera Especial No.4, with Grange des Pères, Mas de Daumas Gassac and Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian the other notable absentees.

On the other hand, it was an interesting experiment to match wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon against high-end Southern Rhône represented by leading players like Château Rayas.

2016 vs 2017 vintages

In terms of vintage, there were one or two mature years (2005, 2009, 2014), all of which performed well, but the majority of wines hailed from either the 2016 or 2017 vintages.

The group’s top 10 had these two vintages as more or less an even split, whereas my notes gave a net advantage to the 2016 wines from both Languedoc-Roussillon and Southern Rhône.

Both are concentrated years, although 2017 was trickier due to frost then drought. Overall, 2016 seems overall to be better balanced and probably reflects my penchant for bright acidity.

Stylistically there was quite a mix. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, particularly the heavily Grenache-based wines from Clos du Mont-Olivet, Marcoux and Rayas, was perhaps the easiest to recognise with the pale hue, sweet fruit and structure.

Thereafter styles ranged from the more terroir-led examples of Mas Champart, Mas Jullien and the Chapoutier Barbe Rac to the modern take of Gérard Bertrand’s Clos d’Ora and Calmel & Joseph’s La Madone, passing by the finesse of Clos des Papes and Domaine de Montcalmès.

Aside from a couple of wines, the selection was extremely consistent in quality with scores in the 94 to 90 range and frequently only a point making the difference.

The group aggregate put Château Rayas as the top scoring wine and gave stronger support to Châteauneuf-du-Pape than I did.

That being said we were all on song for, respectively, the Domaine de la Janasse and Tardieu-Laurent Vieilles Vignes, as well as Domaine Peyre Rose (a top scoring wine in 2019 as well), but missed the reserved presence of Château de Beaucastel’s Hommage à Jacques Perrin.

What else did we learn?

There’s a little more sweetness of fruit in the Southern Rhône but the Mediterranean warmth also comes through in the Languedoc-Roussillon wines.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape probably has the tannic structure for longer ageing but the Languedoc-Roussillon is by no means without reserve.

Terrasses du Larzac, in particular, whether in the group aggregate or my own scoring, was a notable success with the three wines shown.

The eye-opener, though, was price (Euros in France). The Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines all retail at more than €50, except for Clos du Mont-Olivet, while Château Rayas is around €700-a-bottle and Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin at €480.

Compare this to the price of Domaine de Montcalmès at €28, Mas Cal Demoura Les Cambariolles at €26 or Domaine d’Aupilhac Les Cocalières at €19 per bottle and there are bargains to be found.

And it doesn’t only apply to the Languedoc-Roussillon, witness the Tardieu-Laurent Gigondas at €37 or Domaine Richaud L’Ebrescade from Cairanne at €27.


See James Lawther MW’s top-rated wines from the tasting


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Mas Jullien, Lous Rougeos, Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017

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This is a wine that shows great vibrancy and depth. The nose is slightly reticent but profound with dark fruit and spice and a smoky, reductive edge. The palate is suave and broad but harmonious, the tannins rounded and the fruit pure. There's also innate freshness. The fruit comes from once abandoned parcels at 400 metres that Olivier Jullien has reworked over the last 15 years. The wine is aged for 12-18 months in 600-litre demi-muids.

2017

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Mas JullienTerrasses du Larzac

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Domaine de la Janasse, Vieilles Vignes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2014

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Vieilles Vignes means just that, the majority of the fruit from vines planted in 1920 and 1965. Pale red hue with a hint of evolution. The wine is busy and fresh on the nose with menthol-eucalyptus moving to herbal notes and a dash of cassis. The palate is ripe but perfectly pitched with mellow tannins, a stony, vinous edge and complexity as it unfolds.

2014

RhôneFrance

Domaine de la JanasseChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Domaine Peyre Rose, Syrah Léone, Côteaux du Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2009

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This was only released for sale in March 2019 following ten years maturation in tank (and a small percentage in foudres). The brick colour shows its visible evolution. The nose is open and expressive with prune, leather and spice notes. The same aromatics follow on the palate with an additional tobacco note. It's clearly a mature wine but there's lovely freshness, a dry finish and enough tannic bite to suggest it still has staying power.

2009

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Domaine Peyre RoseCôteaux du Languedoc

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Domaine Richaud, L'Ebrescade, Cairanne, Rhône, France, 2016

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A wine that is both gourmand and refined. It has ripe, creamy, berry fruit with a touch of spice. The palate is rich on attack then follows through with plenty of reserve. The tannins are plentiful but honed. This is a wine that is well within itself (the alcohol unobtrusive), a pleasure now but with the capacity to age. It is produced from 50-80 year-old vines and aged for 18 months in 600-litre demi-muids.

2016

RhôneFrance

Domaine RichaudCairanne

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Tardieu-Laurent, Vieilles Vignes, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2017

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The majority Grenache is 60 to over 100 years-old providing the wine with complexity and depth. It has a garnet hue, refined berry fruit nose with a hint of herb, menthol and blackcurrant. The southern sunshine is clear on the palate but there's a stony terroir note and the finish is clean and fresh. There's a firm but fine structure and plenty of reserve. The wine was aged in oak foudres for 24 months.

2017

RhôneFrance

Tardieu-LaurentGigondas

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M Chapoutier, Barbe Rac, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2016

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The terroir (quaternary terrace with large stones) and old vines (90 years) are apparent in this wine. It has subtle aromatics with a stony, mineral, garrigue edge that leave a fresh sensation. The palate is rich but with a firm tannic base behind, good length and grip on the finish combined with a glow of alcohol. It shows complexity and will age. Vinification in concrete vats and ageing in oak barrels for 12 months then 12 months in bottle.

2016

RhôneFrance

M ChapoutierChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Mas Champart, Clos de la Simonette, St-Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016

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This is again very much a terroir wine, the stony character evident in the aromatics and flavour. The nose is slightly reticent with a garrigue, herb nuance, the palate then showing that stony, pebble-sucking texture and taste. There's a touch of sweetness to the fruit which adds another dimension and the finish is clean and long. The fruit comes from a single plot and the wine is aged in tank and 600-litre demi-muids for 12-18 months.

2016

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Mas ChampartSt-Chinian

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Domaine de Montcalmès, Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016

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The wine shows a particular elegance proving that the Languedoc can do refinement. It has attractive berry fruit and spice aromatics and flavour with just a hint of oak. The fruit is pure and the tannins are finely honed, the overall impression one of harmony and balance. The refreshment factor is also present. The wine is vinified using native yeasts and aged for 24 months in one and two year-old oak barrels.

2016

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Domaine de MontcalmèsTerrasses du Larzac

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Château Rayas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2005

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The pale brick colour gives the impression of a wine in an advanced state of maturity but the nose is fresh and youthful with lifted red berry fruit. The earthy, herbal, garrigue notes on the palate are a little more mature but the supple fruit and tension shows you the wine can hold. The finish is clean and precise. Elegance again prevails.

2005

RhôneFrance

Château RayasChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2016

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The nose is ripe and solar with a jammy, raisined edge. The palate, though, is fresh and expressive of the terroir with stony, mineral and herbal notes. The tannins are firm and present but refined, the finish dry with a slight glow of alcohol. There's ageing potential here. Maturation was in French oak foudres (20-22 months). The wine also contains 5% of 'other' varieties (Cinsault, Clairette, etc.).

2016

RhôneFrance

Domaine du Vieux TélégrapheChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Domaine Les Aurelles, Aurel, Pézenas Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2013

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The wine has a Mediterranean feel but also a certain finesse. The colour shows some evolution, the nose providing notes of leather, prune and herbs. The palate is round, plush and refined with fine tannins, some freshness and a clean, dry finish. It's drinking well now. Maturation was in tank, the wine spending 49 months before bottling.

2013

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Domaine Les AurellesPézenas Languedoc

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Château de Beaucastel, Hommage a Jacques Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2016

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Beautifully fresh, lifted and disarming on the nose, you react with a smile without thinking, like with so many of the best 2016s. At this stage there's liquorice, a little black pepper and some floral overtones alongside a little grilled toast. It's full-bodied, you feel the sun in the wine, and it's so concentrated. Tannins are wonderfully glossy and fine, the wine is saturated with them, they coat your mouth. Long finish with real persistence. Perfectly balanced, utterly harmonious, this will be a panoramic Châteauneuf when it's ready. Not overblown or overextracted - perfectly pitched.

2016

RhôneFrance

Château de BeaucastelChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2017

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This has an expressive nose with notes of blackcurrant and spice (liquorice). The palate is ripe, supple and fragrant, again with blackcurrant notes on the finish. The tannins are finely honed. It definitely has a refined edge but appears light in structure. The wine also contains 5% Counoise, Muscardin and Vaccarèse and is matured for 12-15 months in oak foudres.

2017

RhôneFrance

Clos des PapesChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Domaine Gardiés, La Torre, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016

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Rich and modern in style, La Torre has generous red and dark fruit with a twist of herb. The solar ripeness also gives it a definite Mediterranean feel. There appears to be a touch of oak but it is well integrated. The finish is long. It's a well-made wine with medium ageing potential. The vines are grown on schist and clay soils and the wine matured for 18 months in 600-litre demi-muids.

2016

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Domaine GardiésCôtes du Roussillon Villages

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Domaine d'Aupilhac, Les Cocalières, Montpeyroux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017

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This wine is quite a charmer with a nose that is lifted and bright, displaying red berry and spice (pepper) aromas. The Syrah component seems significant at this stage. The palate is fruit-driven and expressive with a come hither feel and coffee bean note. The tannins are fine and integrated - this will provide attractive early drinking but I'm less sure about the long haul. It was produced from vines grown on a northwest facing vineyard at 350 metres and aged in barrel and tank.

2017

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Domaine d'AupilhacMontpeyroux

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Gérard Bertrand, Clos d'Ora, Minervois, La Livinière, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016

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The deep, crimson-purple colour announces the tenor. This is a big, bold wine of a more international flavour than terroir driven at this stage. There's plenty of creamy oak with cassis notes on the nose while the palate is full, plush and round, the ripeness and glow of alcohol giving a port-like nuance. The tannins are finely honed and will provide a structure for mid-term ageing. The wine, which also includes some Carignan, was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

2016

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Gérard BertrandMinervois

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Calmel & Joseph, La Madone, Corbieres, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017

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The oak is integrated but still present in this wine and, along with the fruit, offers dark pastel fruit and cassis notes in a slightly exaggerated manner. The palate is round, juicy and aromatic with finely etched tannins and an agreeable freshness. It's a well-made wine but lacks some regional character. The wine spent 12 months ageing (including the malolactic fermentation) in oak barrel.

2017

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Calmel & JosephCorbieres

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Clos du Mont-Olivet, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2017

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This has a pale garnet hue and aromatic expression with prune, olive and herbal notes. The dominance of Grenache provides a sweet-fruited attack and supple mid-palate, the tannins finely honed. There's a touch of alcohol on the finish. It's a complete wine but could step up in complexity. The wine also includes 6% of 'other' grape varieties (Cinsault, Counoise, Vaccarèse, Terret noir, Picpoul noir, Muscardin).

2017

RhôneFrance

Clos du Mont-OlivetChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Domaine des Escaravailles, Héritage 1924, Rasteau, Rhône, France, 2017

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This old-vine cuvée of Grenache is a powerhouse wine and is marked by its solar nature. The aromatics are very much currant, cassis and spice, the palate ripe and full but firm with a robust tannic frame. Ageing (9 months) took place in concrete vat. The alcohol is not obtrusive in tasting.

2017

RhôneFrance

Domaine des EscaravaillesRasteau

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Domaine de Marcoux, Vieilles Vignes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2016

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This is very much an understated wine, the colour pale garnet, the aromatics a mix of red fruit, olive, herb and spice. The palate appears juicy and refined but low-key with a svelte-like tannic backbone. There's immediate drinkability (the alcohol not disturbing) but probably ageing potential also. There are some other grape varieties, including Mourvèdre, co-planted with the Grenache. The parcels were planted in 1900 and 1949.

2016

RhôneFrance

Domaine de MarcouxChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Mas Cal Demoura, Les Combariolles, Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016

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The nose is lifted and spicy with a herbal twist and just a hint of oak. The palate has depth and restraint and feels a little backward giving the impression there is more to come. It's a solid wine, if lacking a little in relief. Grenache and Cinsault complete the blend in this wine which was aged for 12 months in demi-muids (a portion new) and foudres and then 7 months in tank.

2016

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Mas Cal DemouraTerrasses du Larzac

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Domaine Saint-Préfert, Collection Charles Guiraud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2017

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This is a concentrated wine with plenty of extract but I found the tannins just too drying and chewy on the finish. The alcohol shows as well, otherwise, there's depth at the core, cassis and herb aromatics and sweetness and volume on the palate. Could be it just needs time. Maturation (18 months) was in four year old demi-muids.

2017

RhôneFrance

Domaine Saint-PréfertChâteauneuf-du-Pape

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Clos Marie, Simon, Pic St-Loup, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017

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The wine starts well with attractive berry fruit and spice aromatics but then a gamey note intervenes which suggests a touch of brettanomyces spoilage. The tannins, too, are rather drying and aggressive on the finish.

2017

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Clos MariePic St-Loup

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Domaine Gauby, Muntada, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016

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You'll have to be tolerant of a high level of brettanomyces spoilage to appreciate this wine. There's a base of dark fruit but the gamey-animal notes are really marked and the tannins chewy and tough on the finish. Funky is certainly the word.

2016

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Domaine GaubyCôtes Catalanes

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James Lawther MW
Decanter Magazine, Bordeaux Expert and DWWA 2019 Regional Chair for Languedoc-Roussillon

James Lawther MW is a contributing editor to Decanter as well as an independent wine writer, lecturer and tour guide based in Bordeaux. He retailed wine at Steven Spurrier's Les Caves de la Madeleine in Paris in the 1980s, and his early career also involved stints as a cellar hand in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Roussillon and Western Australia. In 1993, Lawther became a Master of Wine. He is author of The Heart of Bordeaux and The Finest Wines of Bordeaux, and has contributed to books including Dorling Kindersley’s Wines of the World, Oz Clarke’s Bordeaux and Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book.