Loire 2022 reds
Grape sorting at biodynamic estate Domaine Grosbois, in Chinon.
(Image credit: Domaine Grosbois)

Throughout the Loire, heat and drought during the summer months were a defining feature of the 2022 growing season. Thankfully, rain that fell in August was a welcome relief, allowing healthy grapes to ripen fully while preserving freshness.

As with the whites, quantities of the reds are variable depending on the extent of April frost damage to certain pockets, as well as soil type, age of the vines, and tendency of producers to rely on chemical herbicides. This is a very good quality vintage across the board, with the potential to be one the greats.


Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Jim Budd’s top 30 Loire reds of 2022 and 2021


Top red producers of 2022 and 2021

Château de Villeneuve – Saumur-Champigny

Domaine de la Butte – Bourgueil

Domaine de la Noblaie – Chinon

Domaine Yannick Amirault – St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

Vincent Pinard – Sancerre

Anjou-Saumur

Drought and extreme summer heat were the dominant factors here, as with most other areas, as Jean-Pierre Chevallier, of Château de Villeneuve, recounts: ‘2022 was a particularly hot year where the lack of water did not spare us, having an impact on our yields. The long-awaited arrival of the rain in August was invaluable in obtaining good quality grapes, giving us everything we needed to make great wine.’

Touraine

Early April frosts did not generally have severe consequences apart from in the western part of Touraine, around Chinon, where bud-break was further advanced than in the east.

Getting the picking date right was very important as alcohol levels rose rapidly and grapes could soon become over-ripe. This is confirmed by Yannick Amirault, who makes wine in Bourgueil and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil: ‘The 2022 vintage brought new records for precocity with our Cabernet Franc, but also for drought. The year was marked by several forest fires. Fortunately the grapes did not suffer from these extreme conditions, but the timing of grape maturity was very precise.’

The early bottled reds are already attractive to drink, while the more ambitious wines won’t be released until later this year or into next but are concentrated with a fine potential to age.

Good examples of early bottled 2022s include Le Temps des Cerises Chinon from Domaine de la Noblaie, Domaine des 7 Lieues Moncartier from Cellier du Beaujardin, Cote 50 Bourgueil from Domaine Yannick Amirault and the Cabernet Franc Anjou from Domaine Cady.

Loire 2022 reds

In the cellar at Domaine Yannick Amirault.
(Image credit: Domaine Yannick Amirault)

Centre & Upper Loire

Despite a mild winter, there were two early April frosts, with temperatures as low as -6C, which would have had devastating effects had bud-break started properly by then.

The Pinot Noirs should be delicious to drink young, with the more ambitious wines needing time in bottle, with a great potential to age well.

The quality of the 2022 vintage extends to the Upper Loire, as Ambroise Demonceaux from Clos de Breuilly in Saint-Pourçain explains: ‘The 2022 vintage will be exceptional for us both in terms of volume and quality. We have not been affected by frost or hail and after a fairly dry summer we got 50mm of rain three weeks before harvest which, along with the healthy soils and fairly old vines (20-70 years), helped bring grapes to perfect maturity.’ The 2022 Eclat de Granite, Côte Roannaise from Domaine Sérol confirms Demonceaux’s optimism.


Top value reds of 2022 and 2021

Cellier du Beaujardin, Domaine des 7 Lieues Moncartier, Touraine 2022

Domaine Cady, Cabernet Franc, Anjou 2022

Domaine de la Noblaie, Le Temps des Cerises, Chinon 2022

Domaine des Forges, Anjou 2022

Jean-François Mérieau, Le Bois Jacou, Touraine 2022


Loire red wines: know your vintages

Since 2014 the Loire has been blessed with an unprecedented series of good to great vintages.

2018

Hailed as a great vintage, which generally combined quality and quantity, although the alcohols on some reds are high. 5/5.

2019

This is another good-quality vintage, although frost-affected, with attractive reds that are drinking well now but with the potential to age. 4/5.

2020

Another hot vintage with many good, concentrated reds but some that lack freshness and high alcohols due to the grapes being picked too late. 5/5.

2021

A cold spring with severe early April frosts led to a return to a more traditional Loire vintage with picking starting considerably later than many of the recent vintages, with more marked acidity in the wines. The reds are more tricky than the whites. There are some real successes here, for example Domaine de la Butte (Bourgueil), Château de Villeneuve (Saumur-Champigny) and Vincent Pinard (Sancerre). Others lack fruit concentration combined with high levels of acidity. 4/5.

2022

This is a very good vintage, possibly one of the best, but more time is needed to judge. The early bottled reds are very promising and the more ambitious cuvées should be too, although they won’t be bottled for a while. 5/5.


Jim Budd’s top Loire reds from 2022 and 2021:


Domaine de la Butte, Le Haut de la Butte, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2021

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Enticing smoky notes waft from the glass, leading to a richly textured palate. It is quite tight and closed at the moment, but the finish...

2021

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Domaine de la ButteBourgueil

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Domaine de la Butte, Les Coteaux du Levant, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2021

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Beautiful, enticing black fruit aromas come to the fore on this rich and powerful wine. The palate is enveloping, its rounded tannins are tasty, fresh...

2021

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Domaine de la ButteBourgueil

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Domaine Ogereau, Côte de la Houssaye, Anjou, Loire, France, 2021

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Sweeping scents of blackcurrants, blackberries and black cherries create an enticing fusion which translates effortlessly onto the opulent palate. It’s powerful and textured, but balanced...

2021

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Domaine OgereauAnjou

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Vincent Pinard, Pinot Noir, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2021

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Am alluring spicy nose on this light-coloured red. Delicacy is this wine’s keynote, with succulence too. While less rich than hotter years, it shows that...

2021

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Vincent PinardSancerre

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Domaine Yannick Amirault, La Source, St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2022

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93

This dense, deep, plum-coloured wine has rich black fruit characters. It’s well-structured and has a long finish, though it needs some time for the tannins to soften a little more. This is a powerful, concentrated wine with good potential to age attractively. The 45-year-old vines are planted on gravel in the best-drained and warmest part of the domaine. The grapes are handpicked into baskets and fermented in open vats for three to four weeks and then matured in wooden vats for six to 10 months. For many years Yannick Amirault’s domaine has been a by-word for quality.

2022

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Domaine Yannick AmiraultSt-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

Domaines Minchin, La Tour Saint-Martin Pommerais, Menetou-Salon, Loire, France, 2021

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92

With its delicate, spicy aromas and rich, softly textured fruit, this is a lovely Pinot Noir, not a heavyweight but with plenty of finesse and a long finish. Still youthful, it has the potential to become more complex with additional bottle age. Given the quality, this is reasonably priced and shows the level of quality that Pinot Noirs from the Central Vineyards now achieve. The vines are planted on clay-limestone over Kimmeridgian marl. The hand-harvested grapes were fermented in conical wooden vats and matured for six to eight months. The domaine was certified organic in 2022.

2021

LoireFrance

Domaines MinchinMenetou-Salon

Domaine de Villargeau, Chicago, Coteaux du Giennois, Loire, France, 2022

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Youthful red fruit aromas billow from the glass. The palate is softly textured with some structure, and the tannins need time, or food, to soften....

2022

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Domaine de VillargeauCoteaux du Giennois

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Château de Villeneuve, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France, 2021

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Plump and soft red cherry and raspberry notes lead to a seductive, mouth-filling palate that shows some structure. It’s well balanced with a long finish...

2021

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Château de VilleneuveSaumur-Champigny

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Domaine Sérol, Chez Coste, Côte Roannaise, Loire, France, 2021

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Pretty red berry notes on the nose precede a mouth-filling palate that has decent structure from well-integrated tannins. A dusting of spice lingers on the...

2021

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Domaine SérolCôte Roannaise

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Domaine Yannick Amirault, Côte 50, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2022

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Lush and alluring black fruits swim from the glass, before plunging into a rich palate that shows some present tannins that will soon soften or...

2022

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Domaine Yannick AmiraultBourgueil

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Jean-François Mérieau, Cents Visages, Touraine, Loire, France, 2022

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A dense, deep plum colour in the glass reflects the rich prune and fig aromas coming from it. It’s very concentrated and will need time...

2022

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Jean-François MérieauTouraine

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Jean-François Mérieau, Le Bois Jacou, Touraine, Loire, France, 2022

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Rich and concentrated black cherry characters suggest that this is already showing its potential power, displaying great length and concentration. The 10ha of vines are...

2022

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Jean-François MérieauTouraine

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Cellier du Beaujardin, Domaine des 7 Lieues Moncartier, Touraine, Loire, France, 2022

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Spicy and black-fruited on the nose, this Touraine Gamay has lovely richness and presence in the mouth, is well structured and well balanced. Ideally it...

2022

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Cellier du BeaujardinTouraine

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Clément & Florian Berthier, Pinot Noir, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2021

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Smoky red fruit notes lead to a rich, mouth-filling palate with a long, well-balanced finish. This is still young and will benefit from further bottle...

2021

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Clément & Florian BerthierSancerre

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Clos de Breuilly, Saint-Pourçain, Loire, France, 2021

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Black cherry and bramble fill the nose and mouth and make for an appetising, easy-drinking Gamay that still shows power, length and balance despite the...

2021

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Clos de BreuillySaint-Pourçain

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Clos de l'Ecotard, Saumur, Loire, France, 2022

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Inviting cherry aromas and flavours emerge on this plump, mouth-filling wine. It’s ripe and concentrated, and although not yet bottled it showed its potential through...

2022

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Clos de l'EcotardSaumur

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Clos du Porteau, Le Courlis, Touraine, Loire, France, 2022

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A youthful 2022 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc from the Clos de Porteau, with appetising grapefruit notes, allied with a lovely vibrancy and texture, with a touch...

2022

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Clos du PorteauTouraine

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Domaine Nau, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2021

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Perfumed and smoky Cabernet Franc aromas. This is richly textured and shows some structural tannins that would blend in nicely with food. Although this is...

2021

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Domaine NauBourgueil

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Domaine Grosbois, La Cuisine de ma Mère, Chinon, Loire, France, 2021

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Fragrant red fruits typical of young Loire Cabernet Franc, leading to a seductive and soft palate with light tannins. This is a delicious wine to...

2021

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Domaine GrosboisChinon

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Domaine Cady, Cabernet Franc, Anjou, Loire, France, 2022

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Cherry and raspberry scents introduce a soft-textured wine that nonetheless shows some structure in its well-handed, ripe tannins – not at all grippy, which can...

2022

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Domaine CadyAnjou

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Lamé Delisle Boucard, Cuvée Prestige, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2021

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Discreet red fruit aromas, followed by a seductive, mouth-filling palate backed up by acidity, which is typical of the 2021 vintage, giving freshness in the...

2021

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Lamé Delisle BoucardBourgueil

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Couly-Dutheil, Gravières d’Amador Abbé de Turpenay, Chinon, Loire, France, 2021

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Smoky, fragrant Cabernet Franc aromas are followed by a rich, concentrated palate, with some grainy tannins which won’t be noticeable with food, and good length....

2021

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Couly-DutheilChinon

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Domaine de la Noblaie, Le Temps des Cerises, Chinon, Loire, France, 2022

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Youthful raspberry and strawberry characters on the nose and palate. Currently the tannins are quite present, but with food and a little more time in...

2022

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Domaine de la NoblaieChinon

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Jérémie Mourat, Grenouillère, Val de Loire, Loire, France, 2022

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This was a promising tank sample with some fermentation aromas, but it’s a powerful wine with structure and black fruit notes. From the rich 2022...

2022

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Jérémie MouratVal de Loire

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Château de Targé, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France, 2021

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Lightly smoky red fruits on the nose. The palate is initially soft-textured, then some slightly grainy tannins come through. This Saumur-Champigny is medium-bodied with quite...

2021

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Château de TargéSaumur-Champigny

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Domaine des Bérioles, Auvernat, Saint-Pourçain, Loire, France, 2021

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Light red fruit notes and spice mingle with a touch of smoke. This is an easy-drinking wine with a light texture, best served lightly chilled....

2021

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Domaine des BériolesSaint-Pourçain

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Domaine des Forges, Anjou, Loire, France, 2022

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Red fruits dominate the aromas here, with a particular emphasis on cherry. This is a soft, easy-drinking red with tannins that are well handled for...

2022

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Domaine des ForgesAnjou

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Frédéric Mabileau, Foxtrot Romeo Echo Delta, St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2021

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Smoky characters of Cabernet Franc introduce this medium weight wine. It shows good concentration and is a delicious, easy, juicy wine – a bottle to...

2021

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Frédéric MabileauSt-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

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Domaine de la Cotelleraie, St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2021

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Perfumed cherry notes on the nose. The palate is initially attractive and medium weight, but the tannins are slightly rough. They’d be hidden with food...

2021

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Domaine de la CotelleraieSt-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

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Jim Budd
Decanter Magazine, Wine Writer & Photographer

Jim Budd moved from education to wine in 1988 and has written for Decanter since 1989. He is the former editor (1991-2015) of Circle Update, the newsletter of the Circle of Wine Writers.  He writes the award-winning www.jimsloire.blogspot.com and is one of the five members of the Les 5 du Vin blog. Budd exposes the dangers of drinks investment on his award-winning www.investdrinks.org website, and complementary www.investdrinks-blog.blogspot.com blog. He also contributes to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book, Wine Behind the Label and the Academie du Vin. Budd is a keen photographer – especially in the Loire.