Loire whites 2022 plus top new releases

Overall the 2022 growing season in the Loire was marked by some periods of extreme heat and drought during the summer, but rain in August made a big difference and grapes were generally very healthy.

Quantities vary considerably depending on April frost damage and whether the later drought spells blocked grape maturity, which would have been dependent on soil type, the age of the vines and producers who encourage their vines to develop deep roots by avoiding the use of chemical herbicides.

‘2022 is a very good quality vintage across the board. Some are hailing it as one of the great years – time will tell.’

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Jim Budd’s top 30 Loire whites of 2022 and 2021

Top white producers of 2022 and 2021:

Domaine de la Taille aux Loups – Montlouis and Vin de France (Vouvray)

Domaine Luneau-Papin – Muscadet Sèvre et Maine

Domaine Merlin-Cherrier – Sancerre

Domaine Ogereau – Anjou

Vincent Pinard – Sancerre

Pays Nantais

There were early April frosts here, as François Lieubeau, of Famille Lieubeau, explains: ‘Four nights of frost from 31 March to 4 April, with temperatures below -3.5C, once again kept us on our toes.’ Fortunately, there was much less damage than in the previous year – in part because bud-break was in its early stages and because it was dry, so there was less humidity to form ice around the fragile buds. Frost protection systems are also increasingly effective, and investment in wind machines has increased markedly since 2016.

The summer was very dry with rainfall down by 30% on the 10 year average. However, fortunately rain finally arrived in mid-August just before the harvest and in time to make a difference. The Ban de Vendanges was given for 23 August, which is very early.

Lieubeau sums up: ‘With ideal natural alcohol levels (a final average of 12%) and grapes in impeccable health, 2022 will go down as a solar year with outstanding quality and beautiful balance.’

Due to the drought, yields were not sufficient to replenish stocks after the very short, frost-affected 2021 vintage.

Anjou-Saumur

As with elsewhere in the Loire, drought and extreme summer heat were the dominant factors in the Anjou-Saumur area, as Ivan Massonnat, of Domaine Belargus, recounts: ‘From the month of May rain was rare. It was so dry that there was a major fire on the north side of the Layon on 9 August. The miracle of 2022 was the very welcome return of some rain on 15 August – just in time to make a significant difference.’

The rain allowed producers to make very good dry whites. Further small quantities of rain in October provoked the development of botrytis, enabling the production of fine sweet wines, too.

Touraine

Fortunately, although there were some very early April frosts they didn’t have serious consequences overall. That being said, western Touraine was affected, for example in parts of Chinon, as bud-break was further advanced than in eastern Touraine where the nascent buds still had their protective cover.

As with elsewhere, the picking started early: in August for some varieties and wine styles, especially Chardonnay for sparkling wines. Vouvray was able to make all styles from sparkling through to sweet.

I tasted some very attractive Sauvignon Blanc, for example, from Clos Roussely, Domaine Beauséjour and Domaine Mérieau.

Centre & Upper Loire

The winter was mild with above average temperatures in the Centre and Upper Loire area. In early April there were two periods of frost, which could have had severe consequences as during the night of 3 April temperatures fell as low as -6C. Fortunately, bud-break hadn’t properly started and there was very little humidity. Flowering was very early, starting at the end of May.

Picking started in Menetou-Salon and Reuilly on 25 August and between 5-10 September for the rest of the central vineyard appellations.

The Sauvignon Blancs are concentrated with ripe fruit notes – grapefruit, pineapple and stone fruits – and despite the heat of the summer the wines have enough acidity, although naturally less marked than the 2021 vintage.

There are some very good 2022 Sauvignon Blancs. At this stage the overall quality of Sancerre is more regular than Pouilly-Fumé. However, in both appellations there are some prestige cuvées that would have benefitted from more time on their lees but there may have been pressure to bottle given the small 2021 vintage.

See all 51 of Jim Budd’s recommended Loire whites from 2022 and 2021

Top value whites of 2021 and 2021:

Cellier du Beaujardin, Salamandre, Touraine 2022

Domaine Beauséjour, Les Silex, Touraine 2022

Domaine de la Tourmaline, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2022

Domaine de Villargeau, Coteaux du Giennois 2022

Domaine des Forges, Vignoble Branchereau, Coteaux du Layon, Chaume 1er Cru 2021

Loire white wines: know your vintages

Since 2014, the Loire has been blessed with an unprecedented series of good to great vintages.

2018

Hailed as a great vintage, which generally combined quality and quantity, although the alcohols on some whites are very high. 5/5.

2019

This is another good-quality vintage, although frost-affected, with attractive wines that are drinking well now with more freshness than 2018 but with the potential to age well. 4/5.

2020

Another hot vintage with many good, concentrated wines but also some that lack freshness and zip. 4/5.

2021

A cold spring with severe early April frosts led to a return to a more traditional Loire vintage, with picking starting considerably later than many of the recent vintages and more marked acidity in the wines. Despite some early doubts there are some lovely whites, though quality is variable and volume severely down. This is a vintage that reveals the quality of the producer. 4/5.

2022

This is a very good vintage, possibly one of the best, but more time is needed to judge. Overall it is a success for both Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc with well-balanced wines having both concentration and freshness, although there are a few flabby wines lacking acidity. 5/5.

Jim Budd’s top Loire whites from 2022 and 2021:

Related articles

• Loire 2021 white wines: vintage report and new releases
• Loire 2021 red wines: vintage report and new releases