New York State: Sparkling wines to try
Sparkling wine plays an important role in the New York State wine scene. Charles Curtis MW discovers why and selects a handful to try.
Few today realise the importance of sparkling wine to New York State’s wine production.
The first bonded winery in the United States (established in 1860) was the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, whose product was called ‘Great Western Champagne’ (sic), a sparkling wine produced from hybrid grapes Isabella and Catawba.
Scroll down to see Charles Curtis MW’s top New York sparkling wines
Although this is still produced today, sparkling wine in New York State has diversified dramatically.
The first traditional-method sparkling wine from European grape varieties (v. vinifera) was made in 1985 by the Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery.
They continue to stress traditional-method sparkers along with other producers such as Hermann J. Weimer in the Finger Lakes and Wölffer, Bedell, and Lenz on the North Fork.
Others, such as Sheldrake Point and Ravines, produce a Sekt-style sparkler from Riesling that can be delightfully refreshing.
See also: Charles’ New York State red wines and white wines to try
Another trend in New York (as everywhere, it seems) is the revival of the méthode ancestrale sparkling wine.
This type of wine is produced by stopping the initial fermentation of the grape juice into wine, rather than by secondary fermentation in the bottle as is done in Champagne (known as traditional-method sparkling wine).
Often slightly sweet, this style gained currency in the modern era in France, where it is called today ‘pét-nat’, short for ‘pétillant naturel’. Today, pét-nat is produced worldwide from France, Austria and Spain to the New World.
In New York State, some producers, such as Red Tail Ridge, use Riesling.
Others, such as the joint venture between winemaker Nathan Kendall and sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier called chëpìka, use traditional New York hybrids such as Catawba and Delaware.
In contrast, others use inventive blends such as the Merlot/Lagrein produced at Channing Daughters.
Charles Curtis MW’s top New York sparkling wines
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Dr Konstantin Frank, Blanc de Blancs, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2017
<p>This sparkling wine is one of the references for the region. It shows an astonishing purity of fruit with lovely lemon and green apple aromas,...
2017
Dr Konstantin FrankFinger Lakes
Chëpika, Catawba, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2020
The new vintage of the Catawba pet-nat from Nathan Kendall and Pascaline Lepeltier is their most successful yet. They have managed to tame the unruly...
2020
ChëpikaFinger Lakes
Hermann J. Wiemer, Cuvee Brut, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2016
This wine is a lovely example of the potential of traditional-method sparkling wine from the Finger Lakes. The classic blend of 63% Chardonnay and 37%...
2016
Hermann J. WiemerFinger Lakes
Dr Konstantin Frank, Brut, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2017
<p>This wine is a blend of 55% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier (explicitly planted for the sparkling program). The wine is harmonious...
2017
Dr Konstantin FrankFinger Lakes
Dr Konstantin Frank, Blanc de Noirs, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2017
<p>This substantial sparkling wine shows pronounced aromas of fresh flowers, marzipan and toast. The texture is just slightly chewy, and there is perhaps a hint...
2017
Dr Konstantin FrankFinger Lakes
Anthony Road, Sparkling Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2017
Done in the style of a German Sekt, this sparkling Riesling shows a pleasantly peachy fruit with honeysuckle notes on the nose. The palate features...
2017
Anthony RoadFinger Lakes