Ontario Pinot Noir: Through the looking glass

Today’s Ontario Pinot Noir is a messenger. Once tentative and searching, it now speaks with clarity of place, vintage and intent. After reviewing more than 50 wines, Magdalena Kaiser reveals how, after five decades, Ontario is at the dawn of a golden age for this captivating varietal. With every glass, Ontario Pinot speaks of place – shifting escarpments and glacial legacies, breezy benches and sun-warmed slopes. Each sub-appellation and single vineyard has a distinct voice, revealing subtle variations in soil, elevation and exposure. Yet beneath this nuance lies a shared pulse: a vibrant core rooted in limestone and the whispered secrets of ancient lakebeds formed thousands of years ago. Through Pinot Noir, the landscape becomes legible – virtually drinkable. As the grape evolves here, so too does the region’s understanding of what it means to craft wine with a true sense of place. This steady refinement has been over 40 years in the making. Scroll down for a selection of Ontario's best Pinot Noir [subscriber-content] [caption id="attachment_559695" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Ontario Pinot Noir ready for harvest. Credit: Rick O'Brien for Wines of Ontario[/caption] Believers and sceptics Since the first Pinot Noir vines were planted in the early 1980s, there have always been believers – and sceptics. That’s still true. Perhaps it’s no surprise: Pinot Noir has a reputation for being difficult. But isn’t it often the difficult things that turn out to be the most beautiful once they find their stride? When given the space they so deeply desire? When they do, they seduce you, leaving you wanting more, teaching you a kind of patience you never knew you had. Many top Burgundian producers say Pinot Noir has no inherent taste, believing this bewitching grape reveals terroir more than any other. That philosophy inspired Karl Kaiser, co-founder of Inniskillin Wines [Ed: for transparency, the author's father] , to spearhead Niagara’s first Pinot plantings in 1983 after carefully researching how this variety could thrive in Ontario’s climate. It was a bold move at a time when growers were unfamiliar with this finicky grape. His belief laid the foundation for a decades-long journey of refinement and discovery. ‘Karl had a scientific mind and a deep curiosity,' recalls winemaker David Sheppard, who worked closely with him. ‘He saw potential where others saw risk. Pinot was part of that vision and was the variety he most admired.’ Research-focused, Kaiser maintained that clone selection, vine density, low yields, carefully timed maceration and restrained oak use were essential for producing high-quality Pinot in Ontario. Others soon followed. While Pinot isn’t the province's most planted grape, it is undeniably one of its most important. [caption id="attachment_560035" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Thomas Bachelder in the cellar. Credit: Bachelder Wines[/caption] Ontario Pinot Noir's renaissance Ontario’s top Pinot producers have been fine-tuning their approach, allowing the grape’s transparency to shine through. As a result, most expressions are moderately pale – a quality that’s now embraced. That lightness reflects finesse, not a lack of substance. Most of Ontario Pinot is planted with Dijon clones 115 and 777, but clonal diversity has long been of interest. Importing clean plant material has been a challenge, but that is beginning to shift. Producers like Dobbin have recently planted a mix of Pommard, Dijon 439, 115, 777, 828, and 02A (from Vétroz, Switzerland) in its vineyards with the goal of creating complexity in their wines. Montreal-based Master Sommelier Elyse Lambert has watched Ontario Pinot evolve over the years. ‘It’s easy to find a good Pinot Noir in Ontario today,’ she says, pointing to the value, structure, and restraint now common among the province’s top producers. ‘Especially at the high end, they’ve embraced a "less is more" philosophy. These are not part-time Pinot makers. They love it – and it shows.’ France-based sommelier Alexandre Freguin, the 2018 UK Best Sommelier winner, agrees. ‘Niagara Pinots stand out – in their crunchy, perfumed fruit and their broad, silky-but-firm mouthfeel – but they’re not trying to imitate. There’s a flinty, stony edge and vibrant energy that speaks clearly of their own place. They’re authentic, and that’s what makes them so striking.’ See all Ontario Pinot Noir tasting notes and scores in our database A place of complexity Back in 2010, assembling a lineup of Ontario Pinots from different sub-appellations was a challenge. Today, producers bottle numerous single-site cuvées, especially in Niagara, which grows the majority of the province’s Pinot Noir. Yet the cooler Prince Edward County also stands out, with some of Ontario’s most distinct expressions rooted in exposed calcareous soils. Thomas Bachelder, a devoted champion of site expression, believes Niagara’s complexity lies in its very bones. ‘Shaped by centuries of glacial movement and crisscrossed by creeks spilling from the Niagara Escarpment, the region’s soils are hopelessly – and delightfully – complex,’ he says. To embrace Ontario means embracing its unpredictability. Vintage variation isn’t just a challenge, it’s part of the story. ‘Each year brings mood swings,’ Bachelder adds with a grin. ‘To love terroir, you have to love unpredictability. We’re midwives, not sculptors, and we need to let the wine decide.’ If Niagara is a shining star, Prince Edward County is its poetic counterpart: cooler, edgier and fiercely site-driven. Dan Sullivan of Rosehall Run says, 'Our Pinot could only taste the way it does because it’s grown here. It’s delicate, transparent, and we’ve learned to reduce maceration and our oak regime in order to allow it tell the story of this place.' Few places in the world offer the precise conditions that fussy Pinot demands to strike that fine balance between elegance and power. It doesn’t tolerate shortcuts. It won’t let you hide. It insists on honesty – and rewards those who pay attention. Producers are listening. They’re giving the grape what it needs, but not more than it asks for. Ontario Pinot Noir is speaking clearly now, with stories shaped by a mere one million years of glacial activity. [caption id="attachment_559696" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Credit: Wines of Ontario[/caption] [/subscriber-content] Tasting notes for 25 top Ontario Pinots [wine-collection] Related articles Vancouver Island: A wine lover's guide Ontario: The evolution of Riesling on the shores of the Great Lakes The transformation of Canada’s Gamay scene plus 15 top bottles

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