Top Gevrey-Chambertin 2023 wines en primeur
An abundant crop forced growers to work hard to ensure quality in this appellation in 2023, writes Charles Curtis MW.
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Top producers in 2023:
- Domaine Armand Rousseau
- Domaine Dugat-Py
- Domaine Duroché
- Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils
Scroll down for the top-scoring 2023 wines from Gevrey-Chambertin
The 2023 harvest was generous in Gevrey-Chambertin and growers were pleased, despite the year’s challenges, and were also justifiably delighted with the quality of the wines.
The first potential pitfall was overproduction. All of the growers with top-scoring wines in our report emphasised the necessity of limiting yield in order to maintain concentration, particularly through green harvesting and sorting, since Pinot Noir is susceptible to dilution if crop levels are too high.
‘We did two green harvests, the first one everywhere, and a second pass where needed,’ says Loïc Dugat-Py of Domaine Dugat-Py.
He began picking on 30 August in Pommard and Beaune, switched to Chardonnay for three days and then picked the reds near the winery in Gevrey. His average alcohol levels were 12.6%-13.8%.
‘We removed half [of the potential crop] and in the end we didn’t pick what was shrivelled [from the heatwave], we left it on the vine,’ says Cyrielle Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. Still, it was a big harvest. An average harvest is 230 barrels across all appellations and in 2023 there were 290, she explains.
Louis Trapet at Domaine Trapet Père et Fils agrees about yield: ‘2023 is the maximum; 2024 is the minimum.’
Acid management
They started to pick on 6 September and ended on the 18 with the Côte de Beaune, harvesting the grands crus just before the rain on 12 September.
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‘The colours are very nice [but] the pH is quite high, although one has a good feeling of acidity,’ says Trapet.
He works to combat falling acidity levels and rising alcohol by training the vines on stakes and not hedging the vines. He ascribes to this technique results that average 0.1 lower pH and 0.5% less alcohol.
Careful sorting was also important in 2023, particularly due to the risk of sunburn and raisined grapes from the late heatwaves.
The other products of the intense heat in September were high pH and high alcohol. The combination of low acidity levels and high alcohol posed several risks, not least an un-Burgundian flavour profile, but the best growers were able to manage crop load and picking date to deliver wines of balance and restraint.
COMING SOON
Score table listing Charles Curtis MW’s top Burgundy 2023 wines above 94 points
Further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:
Morey-St-Denis | Meursault | Chambolle-Musigny | Pommard and Volnay | Vosne-Romanée & Nuits-St-Georges | Chassagne & Puligny-Montrachet | Best value
Top-scoring Gevrey-Chambertin 2023 wines:
Related articles
- Burgundy 2023 en primeur: full report and top-scoring wines
- Wines of the Year 2024: Bordeaux & Burgundy
- Burgundy wine stocks rise after ‘generous’ 2023 vintage
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