Eric-Feferberg-Getty.jpg
The chateau of Gevrey-Chambertin and its nearby vineyard
(Image credit: Eric-Feferberg / Getty)

Top producers in 2023:

  • Domaine Armand Rousseau
  • Domaine Dugat-Py
  • Domaine Duroché
  • Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
  • Domaine Trapet Père et Fils

Scroll down for the top-scoring 2023 wines from Gevrey-Chambertin


The 2023 harvest was generous in Gevrey-Chambertin and growers were pleased, despite the year’s challenges, and were also justifiably delighted with the quality of the wines.

The first potential pitfall was overproduction. All of the growers with top-scoring wines in our report emphasised the necessity of limiting yield in order to maintain concentration, particularly through green harvesting and sorting, since Pinot Noir is susceptible to dilution if crop levels are too high.

‘We did two green harvests, the first one everywhere, and a second pass where needed,’ says Loïc Dugat-Py of Domaine Dugat-Py.

He began picking on 30 August in Pommard and Beaune, switched to Chardonnay for three days and then picked the reds near the winery in Gevrey. His average alcohol levels were 12.6%-13.8%.

‘We removed half [of the potential crop] and in the end we didn’t pick what was shrivelled [from the heatwave], we left it on the vine,’ says Cyrielle Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. Still, it was a big harvest. An average harvest is 230 barrels across all appellations and in 2023 there were 290, she explains.

Louis Trapet at Domaine Trapet Père et Fils agrees about yield: ‘2023 is the maximum; 2024 is the minimum.’

Acid management

They started to pick on 6 September and ended on the 18 with the Côte de Beaune, harvesting the grands crus just before the rain on 12 September.

‘The colours are very nice [but] the pH is quite high, although one has a good feeling of acidity,’ says Trapet.

He works to combat falling acidity levels and rising alcohol by training the vines on stakes and not hedging the vines. He ascribes to this technique results that average 0.1 lower pH and 0.5% less alcohol.

Careful sorting was also important in 2023, particularly due to the risk of sunburn and raisined grapes from the late heatwaves.

The other products of the intense heat in September were high pH and high alcohol. The combination of low acidity levels and high alcohol posed several risks, not least an un-Burgundian flavour profile, but the best growers were able to manage crop load and picking date to deliver wines of balance and restraint.


COMING SOON

Score table listing Charles Curtis MW’s top Burgundy 2023 wines above 94 points

Further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:

Morey-St-Denis | Meursault | Chambolle-Musigny | Pommard and Volnay | Vosne-Romanée & Nuits-St-Georges | Chassagne & Puligny-Montrachet | Best value


Top-scoring Gevrey-Chambertin 2023 wines:


Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Domaine Armand Rousseau's Clos de Bèze is among the greatest Burgundy wines of the 2023 vintage. There is a seductive forward component to the ripe...

2023

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Domaine Armand RousseauChambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

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Domaine Dugat-Py, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Subtle, silky and very refined, the Dugat-Py Chambertin paradoxically has all the power you expect from the appellation at the same time as an...

2023

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Domaine Dugat-PyChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Bruno Clair, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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The Clos de Bèze from Bruno Clair boasts an immense plummy ripe fruit character with notes of earth and spice; there is a slightly reduced...

2023

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Domaine Bruno ClairChambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

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Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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The 2023 Rousseau Chambertin seems loathe to divulge its secrets; there is a forward, pretty black cherry and plum fruit aroma, but it seems to...

2023

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Domaine Armand RousseauChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Dugat-Py, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Loïc Dugat-Py continues to work on his version of Mazoyères, moving away from the massive, tannic style of previous vintages to something with much more...

2023

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Domaine Dugat-PyMazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Duroché, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Pierre Duroché has been sourcing enough fruit for a barrel of Chambertin since 2019 from a parcel at the top of the slope planted in...

2023

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Domaine DurochéChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Duroché, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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The Clos de Bèze from Duroché brims with expressive blackberry fruit aromas and hints of liquorice, smoke, and saddle leather. The texture is dense with...

2023

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Domaine DurochéChambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

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Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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This surpassingly lovely wine almost overwhelms with seductive aromas of ripe mulberry and plum, with hints of rose petal, liquorice and smoke. The texture is...

2023

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Domaine Georges Mugneret-GibourgRuchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Robert Groffier, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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This superb wine boasts profuse blackberry and plum aromas, with notes of exotic spices, earth, smoke and a suggestion of rosemary. The texture is dense...

2023

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Domaine Robert GroffierChambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

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Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Rossignol-Trapet’s magnificent Chambertin 2023 is initially a bit hard to read, with aromas that are a bit reticent on the initial attack, and a monolithic...

2023

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Domaine Rossignol-TrapetChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Trapet Père & Fils, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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The superb concentration of the Trapet Chambertin in 2023 is a marvel, bringing the wine a profuse perfume of mulberry, bramble, mint and spice. The...

2023

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Domaine Trapet Père & FilsChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Amiot-Servelle, En Mazoyères, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Surprisingly deep and brooding, initially a bit reserved, and the first impression is of the powerful tannic grip and structure. In the end, one is...

2023

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Domaine Amiot-ServelleCharmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Armand Rousseau, Clos des Ruchottes, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Boasts a lustrous, forward pomegranate and cherry fruit, with hints of violets and a saline minerality; what the French would describe as ‘a burst of...

2023

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Domaine Armand RousseauRuchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Startlingly complex and rich out of barrel, seemingly skipping the phase of youthful fruitiness and progressing to a deep and savoury character. To be sure,...

2023

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Domaine Armand RousseauGevrey-Chambertin

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Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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The Mazis from Confuron-Cotetidot is a wine of more finesse and less power than some in this cellar. There are lovely, approachable aromas of ripe...

2023

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Domaine Confuron-CotetidotMazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Expressive mulberry and plum aromas edged with earth and underscored with dark chocolate enliven the initial attack of the Bèze from Drouhin-Laroze. Although the wine...

2023

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Domaine Drouhin-LarozeChambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

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Domaine Duroché, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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This is an elegant iteration of Latricières, with a ripe aroma of black plums and spice. There is a bit of the firm, flinty minerality...

2023

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Domaine DurochéLatricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Faiveley, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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The classic Clos de Bèze from Faiveley seemed lusher and more voluptuous than one might expect, with exuberant plum and blackberry fruit and suggestions of...

2023

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Domaine FaiveleyChambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

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Benjamin Leroux, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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Benjamin Leroux’s 2023 Chambertin is immensely successful. Although initially a bit shy, the wine blossoms on the palate with dense black fruits and hints of...

2023

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Benjamin LerouxChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Trapet Père & Fils, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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This beautifully expressive Chapelle-Chambertin has an abundance of ripe wild strawberry and pomegranate fruit on the initial attack, with hints of spice and tea. Pierre...

2023

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Domaine Trapet Père & FilsChapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Trapet Père et Fils, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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The delicious 2023 Latricières from Trapet has a deep blackberry fruit character with hints of violets, rosemary and a firm salty mineral underpinning. The texture...

2023

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Domaine Trapet Père et FilsLatricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Maison Millemann, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2023

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The Chambertin at Millemann is the summit of the cellar. A monumental wine, it is slightly closed on the initial attack. With time, however, there...

2023

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Maison MillemannChambertin Grand Cru

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