Grand cru Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

From 40-50-year-old vines, with a powerful and forceful nose displaying intriguing smoky notes. A wall of concentration on the palate, with vibrant orchard tree fruit, white flowers, great acidity, intense focus and a long, savoury, mineral aftertaste. Despite the power it’s not showy, but is terroir-driven with total purity and for the very long haul.

As hoped for, this is another fantastic example of the special qualities of Moutonne, with great intensity of pear and apple fruit, with a faint tropical edge. Despite the concentration the fruit is pure and the focused acidity keeps the palate fresh and wanting more. The oak is barely noticeable and the wine finishes with a chalky, dry note which adds even more to the appeal. Very, very classy.

Fèvre's largest grand cru, with 4ha located higher up in Les Clos, meaning this is cooler climate and with much more chalk than Kimmeridgian. 50% of the vines were planted by William Fèvre's father in the 1940s. Perfect balance between precision, concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, glorious wine.

Made from 70-year-old vines, a small part of the blend was matured in old casks, the rest in vats. This is powerful, complex, but also refined and understated. Crisp, vibrant acidity, subtle wood notes and a long, lingering, mineral finish. A touch of the iron fist in a velvet glove.

Côte Bouguerots is a cooler site down by the Serein River, with precipitous slopes of 45 degrees. An intense grand cru, with concentration from very low yields (25hl/ha), this displays a distinct savoury edge. It’s a very fine, persistent wine, with a very long future ahead.

Currently showing a bit more oak, this has plenty of weight on the palate. A little more heft than this producer’s Les Preuses, but likely to be more popular. Impressive but, for me, not their top 2020. Sappy on the palate, casks were used here for fermentation and malolactic.

Very high on the slope, where the oldest vines are 85-90 years old. Plenty of density as expected for grand cru level. Savoury, with a touch of wood character coming through. Concentrated and saline to finish. Very classy; this will develop with ageing.

From stony, pebbly soils, this is a precise, reserved Les Preuses which slowly builds on the palate, revealing a rich structure and increased mineral notes following a delicate start. A classic grand cru but keep it for several years before opening.

From 1.5ha on soils that are high in clay content above Bougros, together with 1ha just above Bouguerots. Distinct precision here, not a blockbuster but intense and focused. Lovely crystalline fruit and will age beautifully.

As a tank sample this is still very youthful, there is clearly a lot of potential here. Fresh acidity matches the beautifully ripe fruit characters on the palate, yet this is not at all over-blown, and the wine seems lighter on the palate than the 13.5% alcohol. Restrained wood is barely perceptible. Could move to 95 points once bottled. Classy.

From three plots, two facing north, the other south. This is always a warm valley, and winemaker Olivier Bailly thinks Vaudésir and Blanchot are very similar. 100% matured in vats, with just the end of ageing done in wood to add a hint of spice. Ripe, generous, creamy but has a very good line of acidity as well. Quite warm, enticing, with an intriguing finish.

Although still a little embryonic, there are promising signs, with the concentration on the palate allied to purity of fruit and more of a zesty lime and lemon character than peach. Very restrained oak and firm acidity bode very well for the future.

Attractive, with hints of peach and flowers, coming from 45-year-old vines. Warm but not at all hot on the nose. Very fine line of acidity, plus an intriguing, pristine quality. Not a blockbuster; quite delicate and refined.

Didier Séguier of William Fèvre says there is a distinct line of Marne soil here, as in Butteaux and Vaulorent. Very precise, showing a touch of orange zest on the palate, all kept in check by vibrant acidity and minerality. A rounded, complete Valmur with a long, saline finish.

Dominated by wood on the nose, the palate is very fresh, elegant and focused. There is plenty of concentration here from the gentler slopes of Bougros. Restraint, purity of fruit and a thoroughbred quality on show. A classy grand cru which will be delightful drinking in 18-24 months. Tank sample.

Billaud-Simon have just over 7ha, with only two steel barrels produced (700 bottles). Additional richness and concentration here. Sunny, very ripe fruit but not at all heavy, with the oak beautifully integrated, then a mineral, chalky finish.

Made from purchased grapes, this is an elegant Valmur, with the wood a bit more obvious at the moment. Good concentration, fresh acidity and a touch of grip. A bit more stone fruit in character, with plenty of ageing potential.

From 4ha of vineyards, this is an easy introduction to the Bougros Grand Cru. Acidity is well in check and the wine is generous, with 25% older wood used for maturation. Very nice weight and purity, minerality and an extra layer of richness compared to the premier cru. Higher yields here than Fèvre’s other grands crus, except Les Clos.

Lovely intensity, drive, citrus zestiness and energy here. Concentrated and very elegant wine, with a great future ahead. Fine minerality to finish.