Premier cru Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

The 2020 Montée de Tonnerre is almost impossibly youthful, with bright, lemony fruit shaded with white blossoms and hints of gunflint and spice. The texture is massive and tightly wound. The acidity in this ripe vintage was not as crisp as some but more than enough to bring the wine into balance. The wine does not yet express the full range of complexity that it seems capable of; I would wait at least another two years, but it should drink well for another quarter-century after that.

With 3.65ha spread over eight plots, Fèvre is the largest owner in Vaulorent. Didier Seguier says marl soil gives the density, while Kimmeridgian supplies the minerality. Great complexity on both the nose and palate, this has the richness and structure of the grand cru. Absolutely no need to rush drinking this. Stunning.

Butteaux is an older vineyard with an average age of around 45-50 years. Situated high on the hill, this is a cooler, windier site. It delivers a hint of pine tree and floral freshness on the nose. Very complex palate: savoury, saline, pristine and with a touch of orange-box from the oak. This has a marked, steely, cooler edge, which balances the generous volume in the mouth. It will undoubtedly last many years but is already disarmingly approachable.

Intriguing nose of lime and lemon zest, a hint of honey, then mineral, salty characters on the palate. A magnificent premier cru, this has the acidity and structure to age many years but is very fine already. The overall impression here is of a Chablis with power, density and which compares to a grand cru.

Dauvissat’s small, 0.3ha Montée de Tonnerre parcel is in Côte de Bréchain. This is a cool, intense wine with the mineral character of Montée de Tonnerre coming through, with weight and density in great balance. A very elegant premier cru which finishes with a lovely salty note.

Fèvre has three parcels in Montée de Tonnerre (its purest, most mineral premier cru): Chapelot, Pied d'Aloup and Côte de Bréchain, all facing different ways. Very precise, crystalline fruits, salinity, great acidity and a long, long finish. Will age beautifully, but great now.

Produced from three plots, one of which - Pied d'Aloup – is on average 84 years old. Intense nose, with a focused and pristine fruit character. Mineral with a touch of spice; an elegant wine with drive and precision. I suspect this will age very well and gain weight. No hurry to drink this.

Raveneau's Montmains lies on very different soils to Forêts (here, they are very thin with vines an average of 35 years old). Despite being a windy site, there is a little more tropicality, with hints of orange blossom and a crystalline palate. This finishes with a fine line of acidity and a pronounced, chalky, mineral finish.

As expected from the master, Jean-Marc Brocard, this is a very fine expression of Montée de Tonnerre which marries power and elegance in the same glass. Lovely purity on the nose with wildflowers and a hint of ripe peach. The palate is concentrated yet still very precise with citrus acidity and a long, lingering mineral finish.

The Séguinot’s roots in Maligny date back to 1590. This is a complete Fourchaume from Jean-François Bordet which balances the richness, concentration and intensity of Fourchaume with fresh acid, a lovely mineral undertow and complexity of flavour. Disarmingly drinkable already, this has the potential to age and become a memorable Fourchaume in three to four years.

Dauvissat's Séchet vines lie on deep soils, rich in seashells. Disarmingly drinkable already, this has a nicely integrated layer of subtle oak which adds further depth to the already concentrated palate. Could be enjoyed young but it would be best to allow this several years to fully blossom.

Roland founded the domaine in 1978, with sons Arnaud and David now running the business. Based in Lignerolles, the domaine now covers 21ha. Of this, 0.95ha is within Vau de Vey, consisting of vines averaging 35 years of age. A full, fleshy and dramatic Vau de Vey, with ripeness and generosity of fruit kept in check by the climat’s freshness. Maturation of 50% of the blend was in old oak which has added a touch of spiciness and extra intrigue to the palate. Very impressive.

One of the special Samuel Billaud cuvées, the old vines really adding lots of extra density and concentration. Green apple on the palate, with a touch of red berry fruit as well. Powerful and complex, with great purity and a fine, mineral aftertaste. Will age very well.

A very classy, precise Montée de Tonnerre which has all the components needed to develop into a lovely drink with another year or two in bottle. From 40-year-old vines with 50% fermented in tank, the rest in older barrels using indigenous yeasts. This has a lovely suppleness about it, understated but full of energy and power at the same time. Very good concentration on the palate without being heavy, finishing with some great acidity. A real success.

Full-bodied, dramatic Fourchaume, with weight and density derived from sun-drenched fruit all balanced by fine, crisp apple acidity. Generous and fleshy, this is not at all clumsy but retains great freshness on the palate, leaving one wanting another glass.

Very elegant, cool and driven on both nose and palate. Fine citrus acidity, a thoroughbred with finesse and focus. Lots of potential. Produced from four parcels of varying ages (on average 40 years) ranging from the top of the hill to the bottom.

From a selection of parcels in Sécher, Chatains, Roncières and Mélinots. Harvested separately and fermented before blending. Bright, very zippy, lemon acidity, crisp, floral, and with nice weight. 50% oak but very subtle, with winemaker Olivier Bailly using 600-litre casks of at least five years’ age for the maturation of Sécher.

An unusual left-bank premier cru in that, despite facing south/southwest, Vosgros is generally a slower maturing climat. This is largely down to the limestone-rich soils, giving the wine a certain edginess when young. There is plenty of energy here, with pure, stone fruit flavours, a hint of some exotic fruits on the nose, yet all of this is balanced by very precise acidity and a mineral finish. Very complex and classy.

Mont de Milieu encompasses 44ha of sun-drenched slopes which give the wine additional power, while retaining freshness from the limestone soils. This is a fine Mont de Milieu which delivers as expected - powerful, rich and vibrant yet with a strong core of acidity and structure. A premier cru destined to age very well.

The domaine was created in 1949 by André Tremblay, before passing in 1972 to daughter Lyne Marchive. Since 2018 the 29ha estate has been run by Richard Rottiers and Amandine Marchive. A fine Montmains with some light oak notes evident on the nose and palate, combined with succulent peach fruit, citrus acidity, a hint of lime zest on the finish and matching acidity. A complex, weighty, but very balanced and complete premier cru.

Raveneau's Forêts vines are situated at the bottom of the slope, lying on deeper soils. An elegant, rather than demonstrative premier cru, this Forêts is not the densest of their premier cru, but shows pure citrus fruits on the palate, very restrained wood with some cedar and spice evident, and a lovely focus on the finish. Isabelle Raveneau feels this will blossom with time in bottle and I believe her.

Raveneau's Vaillon is planted on very steep slopes. Although the climat is often characterised by direct exposure to the sun, their vines are situated in a small vale which enables the vines to retain additional freshness. White flowers are apparent on the nose and although this Vaillons has a sunnier edge, this is matched by the acidity. Surprisingly delicate but with long-term ageing potential.

Gérard Tremblay is the fifth generation at this family domaine and is assisted by his wife Hélène. A generous Montmains which balances pure, ripe fruit notes on the nose and palate, with firm acidity and the concentration for extended ageing. Vines with an average age of 40 years old, 30% of the wine has been aged in older wood, adding to the complexity.

Céline and Laurent Notton's Vaugiraut is produced from vines planted in 1935, and it has the aromatic intensity which this left-bank climat is renowned for. Pronounced mineral characters on the palate add to a hint of orange zest, with plenty of acidity giving lots of freshness and vitality to the wine. Drinking well already, this has a fine future ahead.

Showing a steely edge to balance the slightly exotic, stone fruit characters on the nose, this is another classy Chablis from Long-Depaquit. A Premier Cru Chablis with plenty of concentration on the palate and a sunny character, yet framed by citrus acidity and a lingering mineral, saline finish. This has the power to age very well.

Very cool north-facing site, which is a sub-section of Vaillons and home to 50-60-year-old vines producing small, very concentrated berries. Intense and fruit-driven but has lovely freshness to support the density on the palate. Persistent, mineral, with touch of orange spice on the aftertaste. Very impressive already.

A wine from a selection of sites over 3.9ha in Butteaux, Forêts and Montmains. Butteaux is very cold and mineral, while Forêts is elegant and floral. Great precision and focus here, allied with crystalline citrus fruits on the palate. Shows density, but is also very fresh, with lovely mineral characters on the finish. A highly successful Montmains.

Most of the cuvée is produced from Samuel's own vines and 20% is matured in demi-muid of 450-600 litres. Lime and orange zest notes on the palate; a premier cru with very good concentration. Due to be bottled in January 2022.

Typical Montée de Tonnerre, with an elegant palate yet full of concentration and energy. Manages to be both rich and weighty, yet with lots of finesse and drive. Long future ahead.

Vincent trained in the Jura and at Domaine Leflaive before starting to work with his father, setting up his own domaine in 2004. Vincent is a great fan of the acidity in Vaillons and this example proves his point. A combination of green apple and pear fruits, concentration and a mineral, vibrant edge, with that acidity holding everything together. A very energetic wine with a saline character on the finish. Beautifully balanced Vaillons.