Twelve top Rioja wines from Haro Station District – masterclass
Jane Anson tastes 12 wines from six wineries in the Haro station district or 'La Cata del Barrio de la Estacion' at the 2019 Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter.
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Jane Anson speaks exclusively to the six winemakers who led the masterclass ‘A 50 year journey through the historic Haro Station District’ at the Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter and tastes through their wines ranging from 1964 to 2014.
Scroll down for Jane Anson’s tasting notes and scores from the masterclass
Five questions with:
Juan Antonio Leza – Winemaker and general manager of Bodegas Gómez Cruzado (Spanish)
María Urrutia – Marketing director – 5th generation CVNE
Mayte Calvo – Technical director of Bodegas Bilbaína (Vina Pomal)
Agustín Santolaya – General Manager of Bodegas RODA (Spanish)
Eduardo Muga – Co-Owner Bodegas Muga
Guillermo de Aranzabal – Chairman of Grupo La Rioja Alta, S.A.
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Jane Anson: What is the best tapas?All: Iberico chorizo is the emblematic food of Rioja. Ideally served on its own, simply sliced.
JA: What are the essential thing about the Haro Station District wines?All: We are all located around the historic centre of Haro, within walking distance of the station that was used for many years to transport Rioja wine out to the world. We have some of the oldest wineries in the region, most still family run, with traditional ways of working.
JA: Where is your favourite place to relax?
All: The Ermita de San Felices near Haro is a tiny church on top of a hill on the extreme west of the valley. You can climb up to the church and get breathtaking views over the surrounding vineyards. It must be one of the most beautiful spots in all of Spain.
JA: What are you reading?
All: Guns, Germs, and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies, Jared Diamond, professor of geography and physiology at UCLA. It won the Pulitzer Prize for non-fiction in 1998, and its title refers to the factors that have time and again shaped the modern world.
JA: What is the biggest challenge facing you right now?
Juan Gomez Cruzado: Rioja is now allowing the name of specific villages on wine labels, which we are supporting of. But we are being told that as a result we are now unable to use the name Haro on our labels, because our vineyards are not all located in the town. We have used this name of our labels for over 150 years, and it is an essential part of our identity.
See Jane Anson’s tasting notes from the masterclass
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Gomez Cruzado, Honorable, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2014

<p>Young, powerful, wonderfully welcoming with its rich cedar and sandalwood, ripe red fruits, floral aromatics and gentle tannins. This is great quality from their oldest...
2014
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CVNE, Imperial Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2012

A herbs and hedgerow character to this wine. Dark, spicy, mocha oak, and firm substantial tannins, held together by bright citrus freshness. Youthful with promising...
2012
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Viña Pomal, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2010

Excellent quality; tight, structured, knitted down at this point, still feels young and standing to attention. American oak for two years, plus three years in...
2010
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Viña PomalRioja
Muga, Prado Enea Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2010

Only made in the best vintages – and they don't get any better than 2010 – this is a brooding, ageworthy blend of mostly Tempranillo,...
2010
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MugaRioja
Roda, Roda I, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2004

<p>The youngest winery in the tasting, first vintage in 1996, still in the historic district of Haro, and working in an extremely traditional way -...
2004
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RodaRioja
La Rioja Alta, Gran Reserva 890 Cosecha, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 1995

<p>A great vintage and classic Rioja expression; sweet raspberry fruit, leather, game, touches of cinnamon and all wrapped up with silky smooth tannins. This is...
1995
Northern SpainSpain
La Rioja AltaRioja
Roda, Roda I, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 1995

Still rich and deep in ruby colour at almost 25 years old, this was a warm vintage and is packed with smoked leather, strawberry and...
1995
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RodaRioja
La Rioja Alta, Gran Reserva 904 Cosecha, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 1985

<p>A reasonable vintage for Rioja in general, but one of note at this winery, as it was the first year where they were using their...
1985
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La Rioja AltaRioja
Viña Pomal, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 1978

<p>A legendary vintage very much in its drinking window today. Pale ruby in colour, with complex leather and undergrowth notes, but now softly spoken and...
1978
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Viña PomalRioja
CVNE, Imperial Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 1970

Toast, liquorice root, leather and sweet strawberry. A legendary vintage in Rioja, 49 years old at this point, and full of beautiful tertiary flavours of...
1970
Northern SpainSpain
CVNERioja
Muga, Prado Enea, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 1970

The sweet raspberry fruit is fading at this point, replaced by spice, dried earth and leather notes offset by gorgeous menthol freshness on the finish...
1970
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MugaRioja
Gomez Cruzado, Honorable, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 1964

At 55 years old, there is discernible fruit here, although it’s crushed and gentle at this point. Soft raspberry notes, truffled complexity, earth notes with...
1964
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Gomez CruzadoRioja
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
