Walls: The best wines to buy from Gigondas in 2022
Matt Walls revisits the 2022 vintage from this southern Rhône appellation now that the wines are in bottle, recommending 37 wines to seek out.
Some vintages have clear identities. In Gigondas, the 2019s for example are wilful, energetic wines, while the 2018s are softer and juicier.
The 2022 vintage is harder to pin down. The best way of describing it, both in climate and style, is a vintage of extremes.
But if you sidestep the unbalanced wines – there are many with tough tannins and high alcohols – the best wines will age for decades.
Scroll down for Matt Walls’ best 2022 Gigondas wines in bottle
A harsh season
The extreme nature of the wines comes as no surprise: 2022 was the hottest and driest year on record in the southern Rhône.
‘The summer was very hot, scorching even,’ says Julien Brechet of Domaine des Bosquets, ‘and very dry. Temperatures sometimes reached 42°C.
‘Fortunately the cool Dentelles massif and the morning shade cast over the vineyard helped us hold our ground,’ he continues. ‘The sunshine is strong but less scorching than on the plains.’
Romain Saurel of Domaine Saint-Damien says that spring was extremely dry, with less than 200mm of rainfall between December and July.
Thankfully there was a storm on 14 August, which ‘really saved the quality of the vintage,’ he says.
Further small rains later in August and September also helped the vines stay on track, but young vines suffered.
Brechet had to manually water his young vines 11 times between June and August to keep them alive. Old vines coped much better.
This is a vintage where Grenache really shows its worth. The Syrah-heavy blends were often impenetrably tough and tannic, whereas the Grenache-based wines were more juicy, vibrant and balanced.
See Matt Walls full report on the 2022 vintage in the Rhône here
Tannin and texture
Very hot, dry vintages can sometimes lead to jammy or raisined fruit flavours but that’s not the case in 2022.
Despite the conditions – and the fairly low acidities – the wines do have a good sense of freshness.
Nonetheless, the hot, dry conditions left a strong imprint on the wines.
For Jérôme Rathle, 2022 marked his second vintage. His new estate, Domaine des Florets, is one to watch.
‘The lack of rain limited fungal diseases, but the high temperatures led to small berries and ultimately low yields,’ he says, ‘the Syrah berries looked like blueberries.’
This meant a high skin-to-juice ratio in the grapes, which made for some very tannic wines.
Another effect of the hot weather was that some vines shut down and stopped ripening, which can lead to green tannins – further impacting some wines’ textures.
So the main question surrounding the tasting was this: will the tannins ever soften and come round?
For a good number of the 76 wines I tasted, I suspect the answer is no, they won’t. Those wines aren’t included in my selection.
But winemakers that achieved balanced grapes and mastered their tannin management produced some thrilling, chiselled and assertive wines.
Key takeaways: Wines for the cellar
Those drinking well already are in the minority; even for the wines you could broach today, most will improve with a few more years in bottle.
This is a vintage that will reward the patient.
Brechet agrees: ‘The 2022 vintage will likely be a great ageing vintage in Gigondas, thanks to the balance of the great high-altitude terroirs.’
He believes his Regard Loin could age for over 30 years, and I wouldn’t bet against him.
It’s worth adding that it’s not just the higher elevation terroirs that turned out great wines in 2022; some of the lower altitude plots on the Cône also performed well, such as those from Saint-Damien and Montirius.
Most of all, 2022 is a vintage where the best winemakers really rose to the top.
Love French wine? Sign up to Decanter’s France newsletter here
Best 2022 Gigondas in bottle:
30 wines are listed below, see all 37 of Matt Walls’ recommedations here
Related articles
- Walls: Rhône reds lighten up
- Walls: Gigondas 2013 and 2014 – time to drink up?
- Gigondas to produce white wines
Domaine des Bosquets, Le Regard Loin..., Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
On the one hand, the fruit is soft, juicy, and unctuous; on the other, this has real structure and power. The two combine to create...
2022
Domaine des BosquetsGigondas
Château de St Cosme, Le Poste, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Smoky blackcurrant and sloe fruit aromas lead to a very concentrated and powerful but yielding palate, that’s not too hard. This has real depth and...
2022
Château de St CosmeGigondas
Château de St Cosme, Hominis Fides, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Showing spice and herb notes on opening, such as oregano, olive and marjoram, with a touch of dried ham too. Relatively full-bodied, this has depth...
2022
Château de St CosmeGigondas
Domaine du Clos des Tourelles, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Aromatically elegant and precise. Intense but not heavy on the palate – a direct, focused style with ripe tannins and good acidity. Very well balanced....
2022
Domaine du Clos des TourellesGigondas
Domaine Saint-Damien, La Louisiane, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Fresh and vibrant aromas of dried herbs, woodland berries and forest air. Only medium-bodied for the style, with a lovely sense of brisk freshness and...
2022
Domaine Saint-DamienGigondas
Famille Perrin, L'Argnée, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
There’s a herbal touch on the nose, like garrigue and hot sand. The tannins are fine, and there’s precise acidity, salinity and serious intensity. A...
2022
Famille PerrinGigondas
Château de St Cosme, Le Claux, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
This has an enjoyably earthy aromatic display with peppery herbs underneath. Soft and juicy, with more herbal notes, bay leaf and oregano on the palate....
2022
Château de St CosmeGigondas
Domaine des Bosquets, La Colline..., Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Relatively pale in colour (pure Grenache), with a strongly herb-led aromatic profile – oregano and bay leaf. It’s medium-bodied, with more dried herbs on the...
2022
Domaine des BosquetsGigondas
Domaine Saint-Damien, La Souteyrades, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
This is full-bodied and mouthfilling, with robust tannins. There’s plenty of energy and concentration, and good acidity. All quite locked up for now, this will...
2022
Domaine Saint-DamienGigondas
Domaine Santa Duc, Les Hautes Garrigues, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Discrete layers of red berry fruit and spice on the nose, alongside some savoury dill notes. It’s full-bodied but not massive, with softer tannins than...
2022
Domaine Santa DucGigondas
Domaine Santa Duc, Clos des Hospices, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Quite pale in colour, with dried Provençal herbs on the nose. Bright and aromatic. Only medium-bodied, no huge concentration or ripeness. Good acidity, with slightly...
2022
Domaine Santa DucGigondas
Château de St Cosme, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Fresh and defined red berry fruits on the nose, and enjoyable candied notes to the strawberry fruit (but not confected). Medium-bodied, fresh and well balanced....
2022
Château de St CosmeGigondas
Domaine des Bosquets, Le Lieu Dit…, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Paler in colour than some 2022s. A distinctly peppery, herbal nose, it’s very aromatic and alive with dried herb notes. Full-bodied and mouthfilling, with generous...
2022
Domaine des BosquetsGigondas
Domaine des Bosquets, Les Routes..., Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Darkly coloured. Concentrated and dark in aroma, with damson and black fruits. The oak adds a complex spicy note. Powerful and grippy, quite dominated by...
2022
Domaine des BosquetsGigondas
Domaine D'Ouréa, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Blueberry and blackberry jam aromas, really vivid and brightly fruited. It’s full-bodied, ripe, concentrated and voluminous. The alcohol is a little warming on the finish....
2022
Domaine D'OuréaGigondas
Domaine des Florets, Synchronicité, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
An interesting nose that has some balsamic notes, black fruit, red fruit and spice. It’s full-bodied, rich and ripe, with powerful tannins and warming alcohol....
2022
Domaine des FloretsGigondas
Domaine des Florets, Alliance, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
With its plum and blackberry fruit, this is deeper, riper and richer than many this year. The piercing acidity feels a little high, but the...
2022
Domaine des FloretsGigondas
Domaine les Sibu, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Fresh aromas of leaf tea and strawberry. This has a powerful palate that is full-bodied and concentrated. There’s a great surge of tannins, but they're...
2022
Domaine les SibuGigondas
Domaine Santa Duc, Aux Lieux-Dits, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
A bright and raspberry-fruited example. Fine, relatively light in tannin with brisk redcurrant acidity. A juicy and refreshing style, with no great concentration. Eight different...
2022
Domaine Santa DucGigondas
Domaine Montirius, La Tour, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Some reduction on the nose means this is a bit stinky on opening. This departs with some air, leaving authentic strawberry fruit – so I’d...
2022
Domaine MontiriusGigondas
Domaine Montirius, Confidentiel, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
This certainly has elegance on the palate in terms of texture, despite the significant tannic payload. Good acidity brings balance, but this is all quite...
2022
Domaine MontiriusGigondas
Alain Jaume & Fils, Terrasses de Montmirail, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
A fragrant, attractive, juicy style with a lovely sense of freshness and focus, leading to a long finish. There's a broad tannic base, but the...
2022
Alain Jaume & FilsGigondas
Dauvergne Ranvier, Grand Vin, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Beautifully fragrant cherry and strawberry aromas. Then soft, juicy and yielding but still structured. There’s good acidity on the long finish. It has plenty of...
2022
Dauvergne RanvierGigondas
Bertrand Stehelin, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Attractive, lifted violet aromas. This has some fullness, breadth and generosity. Velvety fruit, with strong, tensile tannins running through it. A powerful, structured style of...
2022
Bertrand StehelinGigondas
Domaine du Grapillon d'Or, Cuvée 1806, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Introverted and quite closed at present on the nose and palate, with a scaffold of tannin and acidity. It does have textural elegance and depth,...
2022
Domaine du Grapillon d'OrGigondas
Domaine la Soumade, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
A very silky and approachable style, with velvety fruit and soft, fine tannins. This is a Gigondas to enjoy in its youth. Elegant red fruit...
2022
Domaine la SoumadeGigondas
Domaine Raspail-Ay, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
There’s a reductive note on opening, which becomes meaty with air – decanting advised here. It’s fresh and taut on the palate, with a lot...
2022
Domaine Raspail-AyGigondas
Domaine Saint-Damien, Vieilles Vignes, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Appealing fragrant raspberry aromas. This is soft, juicy and rounded on the palate, with good acidity and smooth albeit quite taut tannins. Good acidity and...
2022
Domaine Saint-DamienGigondas
Aimé Arnoux, Domaine la Maurelle, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Unusually fine tannins for the vintage, they last into a long, tapered finish. This is fresh and well balanced, a Gigondas of elegance and precision....
2022
Aimé ArnouxGigondas
Bernard Chamfort, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2022
Enjoyable spicy top note to the wine. The alcohol is high but the wine does have freshness and a focused, intense style, with marked acidity....
2022
Bernard ChamfortGigondas
