White Rioja: Panel tasting results

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Sarah Jane Evans MW and Pierre Mansour tasted 115 wines, with 7 Outstanding and 46 Highly recommended.

White Rioja: Panel tasting scores

115 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 46

Recommended 54

Commended 8

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release white Rioja wines of any style and any vintage

The category of white Rioja includes acclaimed wines such as Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva and Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay – wines with exquisite elegance that can last longer than a human lifetime. There are also newer wines made in that model, as well as many other younger wines in a variety of styles, made from several different grape varieties. Probably because of this stylistic diversity, it can be hard for wine drinkers to pinpoint what ‘white Rioja’ is.

This panel tasting was excellent on two counts. First, because of the good scores. Second – and probably more importantly – because it helps us establish a definition of the most promising white Rioja style.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the White Rioja panel tasting

We tasted a large number of wines, across a range of styles. Some were built on their youthful fruit, others on their development after barrel and bottle ageing.

Viura was by far the most used grape variety in the wines we tasted. Other native grapes were more scarce, which is unfortunate, since we had two Outstanding wines from other native varieties: a Malvasía and a Tempranillo Blanco. Also present was Chardonnay, a relative newcomer, and there were a few wines featuring Sauvignon Blanc.

Let’s go straight to our most relevant findings. First of all, we concluded that quality potential for white Rioja is impressive. Seven wines scored 95-points, while 46 wines scored 90+ points. An excellent result.

Our second conclusion was that in order to reach excellence, Viura-based white Rioja needs, among other things, oak ageing. There was a telling gap between scores for young Viura wines and the top wines. Sarah Jane Evans MW was assertive on this point. ‘Great young Viura is almost an oxymoron,’ she stated.

Indeed, Viura is quite neutral when young and it doesn’t provide much acid backbone. It requires exposure to oxygen, as well as some time, to reveal its true beauty and gain a suave and firm texture.

Finally, a point on grape varieties. In 2008, Rioja’s governing board approved the use of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo for white Rioja (although these varieties must not exceed 49% of a blend). This may be useful in Spain’s domestic market, but in the broader international wine scene it has less value. As Pierre Mansour pointed out: ‘If, for example, a British consumer wants a Chardonnay, they have many offerings, from many countries, which are more interesting and genuine than Rioja.’

See all the wines from the White Rioja panel tasting

Tempranillo Blanco is interesting, and we had one Outstanding example from Rioja Vega, but it’s just as neutral as Viura when young. The only Malvasía in our line-up, from Amaren, performed really well. In my opinion, more research on this variety would be useful. We did not have enough samples to speak confidently about other permitted varieties such as Maturana Blanca and Garnacha Blanca.

Viura is, and will continue to be, Rioja’s queen. It blends very well with many other varieties, there are relevant stocks of old vines, and it is the best grape variety when it comes to ageing potential. In short, there are many reasons to support its leading role.

The best wines in this tasting were highly enjoyable, and some of them are likely to benefit from cellaring. These wines may occupy a unique niche in the global fine wine market, defined as wines whose pleasure derives more from the mouthfeel than from the nose, whose finish is slow and open. They are for those seeking calm pleasures.

White Rioja panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW is a widely published wine journalist, educator and judge. He holds a degree in agronomical engineering and a Masters in viticulture and oenology, and is a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain

Sarah Jane Evans MW is an awarded journalist, author and broadcaster, a DWWA Co-Chair, and the chair of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino. Her latest book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain is set for release in 2025

Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, where he has worked for 23 years. Starting out with merchant Berry Bros & Rudd, he joined The Wine Society in 2000, moved into buying after four years and has been buying The Society’s Spanish wines since 2008

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