Galician whites: Panel tasting results
Spain’s Atlantic-influenced northwestern region is home to a range of grape varieties you may or may not know. Our judges found plenty to enjoy.
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Beth Willard, Sarah Jane Evans MW and Pierre Mansour tasted 59 wines, with 1 Outstanding and 26 Highly recommended.
Galician whites: Panel tasting results
59 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 1
Highly recommended 26
Recommended 31
Commended 0
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Fair 1
Poor 0
Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-vintage white wines – single varietals or blends of any authorised white grapes except Albariño – from any of the five DOs in Galicia: Monterrei, Rías Baixas, Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, Valdeorras.
From Godello to Treixadura, Loureiro to Caiño Blanco, this tasting offered some exceptional examples of Galicia’s white wines, as well as some new discoveries and a few surprises.
Here we focused on Galicia’s treasure trove of white varieties excluding Albariño, which has already earned itself plenty of attention and been well explored in other tastings. Spanish agriculture ministry data for 2022 shows that production of white wines across the four provinces of Galicia constitutes a significant 69%, bucking the trend of the majority of regions in Spain where red varieties are more widely planted.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Galician whites panel tasting
The judging panel was most impressed with the high quality and consistency of the wines. Nearly half of them – 27 out of 59 – scored 90 points or more. ‘There were no really bad wines in the tasting,’ noted Pierre Mansour. While consistency is a common feature of Spanish wine tastings, we speculated that Galician whites must surely be among the best performers across all price points. It is interesting to note that three of the wines awarded 90 points are under £15, so despite rising demand and costs in Galicia, there is still value to be found.
One variety dominated this tasting: Godello was present in 44 of the wines, either on its own or as part of a blend. Sarah-Jane Evans MW commented that Godello ‘makes much more serious wines than some would expect’ and is the ‘next thing to watch after Albariño’. There were Godellos from each of the five Galician DOs (Denominación de Origen), which allowed the panel to highlight some interesting regional differences.
In this tasting, the Godellos from Rías Baixas and Ribeiro, the two regions closer to the Galician coast, seemed richer and bolder. Godello from Ribeira Sacra was spicier and offered up more mountain herbs and freshness. Monterrei was quite lively and direct with distinctive citrus notes, and the wines from Valdeorras were more floral, vibrant and finessed.
See notes and scores for all the Galician whites panel tasting wines
Treixadura, the most important grape in Ribeiro, somewhat disappointed in this tasting. Mansour suggested ‘it is working better in blends rather than on its own’, but perhaps some of the region’s best, single- variety Treixadura wines were not submitted. There are certainly outstanding examples in the region, so our panel felt there is still plenty of quality Treixadura to discover for markets beyond Spain.
In contrast, the panel was impressed by some quirky and characterful wines made from rarer indigenous varieties. The top-scoring wine is made from the almost extinct Blanco Lexítimo, while another high-scorer is a single-variety Caiño Blanco. Some of the blends also showed off the potential of other local grapes such as Loureiro, Doña Branca, Lado and Torrontés.
While some familiar names feature among the producers of the top wines on this list, we were pleasantly surprised to see some different labels, unfamiliar to the panel. Our parting hope was to see more of these Galician white varieties, as well as up-and-coming producers, making their way to our market soon.
Galician whites: Panel tasting scores
The judges
Beth Willard is involved in sourcing wines for both the on- and off-trade in the UK, with a particular focus on Eastern Europe and Spain. Formerly buying manager at Direct Wines, she is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain.
Sarah Jane Evans MW is a Decanter contributing editor and Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards. Her latest book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain (£35 Infinite Ideas) is set for release in early 2024.
Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, and has been buying The Society’s Spanish wines since 2008. He is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain.
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Ponte da Boga, Blanco Lexítimo, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain, 2022

The indigenous Galician variety Blanco Lexítimo was almost extinct before the team at Ponte da Boga dedicated 10 years to resurrecting the grape. Grown at 500m on slate soils, the wine is fermented in stainless steel and French oak before spending five months on lees. A unique wine with ripe, vibrant citrus fruit, fennel and floral aromas. Great tension and energy with a creamy, polished finish. Time in bottle will further improve it. Beth Willard: Grapefruit pith, lemon and lime aromas. A juicy, tropical palate, pineapple and lime. Vibrant, great tension, racy and energetic, and a lovely bitter-almond finish. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Aromas of fennel, ripe citrus, lightly smoky. Mouth Filling, building to lively bright crunchy acidity. Polished, creamy finish. Pierre Mansour: Floral, precise aroma, limey and mineral, too. Delicate yet intense with a creamy texture, very good.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Ponte da BogaRibeira Sacra
Finca Viñoa, Paraje Penaboa, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain, 2020

Honeyed, creamy aromas with lightly smoky and nutty notes. The oak is subtle, while the hallmark pineapple and tropical fruit fill the palate. Silky mouth with lovely acidity, well balanced with golden greengages and tart gooseberry flavours. Good structure with a fresh and spicy finish.
2020
GaliciaSpain
Finca ViñoaRibeiro
Lagar do Vento, Asubío, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Creamy, aromatic peach fruit nose with elegant and complex aromas of stone fruit and grapefruit. Succulent, juicy texture. Moreish and bright with a fine layering of flavour. Minerality, spice, piquancy and bitter lemon on the finish. Very long.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Lagar do VentoRibeira Sacra
Roberto Regal López, Urbanita Vago y Cortés Blanco, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Creamy, inviting lemon and oaky spice, intense and multi-layered with exotic fruit aromas. Fleshy, voluminous, but driven by vibrant acidity. Oak is well integrated and good quality, lending some sweeter vanilla notes. Very long and elegant on the finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Roberto Regal LópezRibeira Sacra
Torre do Olivar, Expresión Treixadura, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Subtle evolution with smoky, green pea and lime. Fresh and succulent aromas. Ripe pineapple and boiled sweets on the palate, golden peaches in syrup, balanced by lemon zest. Silky, polished mid-palate, and ripe round finish. Despite some softening with time, the wine is still very fresh and young.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Torre do OlivarRibeiro
Viña Almirante, Caiño Blanco, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Layered with honey aromas and just a hint of pecorino cheese. Direct and bright with a salty, lemony and herbaceous core. Elegant, integrated and pure, with real finesse. Long on the fresh finish.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Viña AlmiranteRías Baixas
Casa de Outeiro, Gama Escudo Godello, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Classic honeyed Godello character with subtle, smoky notes from the well-integrated oak. A fine interplay of crisp acidity with golden greengages and wet stones. Attractive chewiness and grip. Elegant with fresh citrus, pineapple and lime on the palate. Wild herbs, mint and fennel lead to a crisp, complex finish.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Casa de OuteiroRibeira Sacra
Santiago Ruiz, O Rosal, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Subtle nose of lemon and white pepper with discreet floral notes and graceful aromas of apple. Zesty and mouthwatering, crystalline fruit, succulent with just the slightest hint of saltiness, fresh lemon and grapefruit. Salty and mineral on the finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Santiago RuizRías Baixas
Altos de Torona, Godello, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Orange blossom and citrus fruits on the generous nose, with buttery, peachy and round aromas. Very attractive, fresh and balanced. Golden, ripe palate, with apricots, bananas and papaya flavours. The finish is punchy, yet fresh.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Altos de ToronaRías Baixas
Entrecanales Domecq & Hijos, El Aeronauta Godello, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Stylish, refined aromas, youthful spring flowers and honey on the nose. Pure, ripe fruits in the mouth, balanced by tart zest. Greengage preserves and spices from the oak. A ripe and fruity style of wine that still offers a fresh and vibrant finish.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Entrecanales Domecq & HijosValdeorras
Godeval, Godello, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Aromatic, lime and floral notes with a blend of pears in syrup and grapefruit zest. The round, generous palate, energised by crisp integrated acidity is punchy and piquant, with a roasted caramel core. Long, lemony, fresh finish.
2021
GaliciaSpain
GodevalValdeorras
Mar de Frades, Godello, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Honey and lime zest on the nose with a touch of vegetal aromas. Brisk and bold, but with young fruits underneath and a pinch of salinity. Some nutty and cheesy characters, but overall the wine is clean and balanced.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Mar de FradesRías Baixas
Señorío de Rubiós, Condado do Tea Blanco, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Floral notes and wild herbs on the nose, extremely refined with hints of apricot preserves. Lively on the palate, the wine is full of ripe pineapple, banana and apple fruit balanced by darts of acidity. Long and lively, with chalky notes on the finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Señorío de RubiósRías Baixas
Adegas Terrae, Agoreira, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Crisp and lively on the nose. Creamy and ripe, inviting. Grapefruit, pithy, lemony acidity. Well balanced and very approachable with a honeyed core that smooths out the acid. Well-made, and ready for drinking with the extra age.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Adegas TerraeValdeorras
Son de Arrieiro, Castes Autóctonas, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Perfumed, with racy, herbal lime and gooseberry aromas. Fresh acidity on the palate with mineral notes, lemon curd, and grapefruit zest. Long and stony with a pithy, firm finish.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Son de ArrieiroRibeiro
Virgen del Galir, Regueirón Godello, Entoma, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Honeyed and floral with hints of smoky new oak. Elegant with woody spice, bright vibrant fruit and healthy pure, peachy fruit. Very classy with a long savoury finish.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Virgen del GalirValdeorras
Bodegas Davide, Perfeccionista Finca Ofelia, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Complex nose of lime, elderflower and gentle woody spice. Honeyed lanolin aromas give way to soft new oak. Crisp, punchy acidity on entry fills out a broad palate, with good weight balanced by acidity, lemon curd and a creamy texture. Weighty finish with citrus freshness. Perfect for cellaring.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Bodegas DavideRías Baixas
Diego Rodríguez, Mister Godello, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Creamy, lemon marmalade aromas with fresh cut flowers, crab apple and citrus fruits showing through. Elegant and well balanced with melon, Nashi pear, a touch of chamomile and white pepper. The wine is very appealing in style, with good creamy length and a very moreish finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Diego RodríguezRibeiro
Finca os Cobatos, Godello, Monterrei, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Freshly scented, delicate, floral and bold. Lively, crisp lemony acidity, with drive and clarity. Lemon curd minerality, with a honeyed, long finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Finca os CobatosMonterrei
Adegas Valmiñor, Minius Godello, Monterrei, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Floral, lemon, green apple and very fresh on the nose. Tropical on the palate with fresh pineapple, peach and passionfruit with soft, rounded, textured fruit. Medium intensity, with crisp lemon marmalade. Attractive bitter almond, pithy finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Adegas ValmiñorMonterrei
Majestic, Winemaker Series Godello, Monterrei, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Very fruity with passion fruit and lemon on the nose. Lively, refreshing, full of energy and crisp mouthwatering acidity. The palate is broad, good weight, and slightly creamy. Linear profile with noted minerality on the finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
MajesticMonterrei
Manuel Formigo, Formigo Blanco, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Youthful, floral and perfumed with citrus aromatics. Lively palate, with lemon oil and tarragon. Precise, dry and lean style, with direct but balanced juicy citrus fruits with a pithy finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Manuel FormigoRibeiro
Pazo das Tapias, Ondas del Alma Godello, Monterrei, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Delicate honey and floral notes, fennel, citrus and wild herbs on the nose. Green apple, white peach and stone fruit bitterness with vivid lemon marmalade flavours. Fresh and approachable, good value.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Pazo das TapiasMonterrei
Pazo do Mar, Nereida, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain, 2021

Aromatic, talc and floral notes. Orange and peach on the palate, fresh and youthful, with a lightly textured finish. Well-balanced and great value.
2021
GaliciaSpain
Pazo do MarRibeiro
Ponte da Boga, Godello G, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Aromatic, lifted nose with pure white fruit and intense aromas of green apple, white pepper and pink grapefruit. Full of flavour, with plump exotic fruits, layered with cream with a zip of acidity. Pithy, with bitter lemon and aniseed with a soft, mouthwatering finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Ponte da BogaRibeira Sacra
Virgen del Galir, Val do Galir Godello, Entoma, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Classy fruit with ripe aromas of lychee, mango and toasty nuts. Full-bodied ripe Godello, balanced by lime acidity and a toasty caramel note. Good complexity makes for an individual wine.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Virgen del GalirValdeorras
Alma Das Donas, AlmaLarga Godello, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain, 2022

Citrus, stony aromas with elegant lemony fruit on the nose. Ripe apple and pear, juicy and fleshy on the palate. Creamy, leesy and rounded with stewed gooseberries, cream, and a bright piquant finish. Delicately structured and classy with a supple, long finish.
2022
GaliciaSpain
Alma Das DonasRibeira Sacra
