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Rioja

This was the year to fall in love with Rioja all over again. The DOCa marked its 100th anniversary – a momentous celebration that served as a reminder, on the one hand, of the region’s long winemaking tradition (going much further back than these 100 years) and, on the other, of its capacity to evolve and remain not merely relevant but firmly at the forefront of contemporary wine.

Serendipitously coinciding with the centenary, the inaugural Decanter Rioja report (in the May issue’s annual Rioja supplement) allowed us to experience, first hand and in great depth, the vibrancy, diversity and sheer quality of the region’s output.

Our extensive tasting exceeded our best expectations. Among the top scorers were established icons but also ‘young guns’; in tandem, these are expanding the region’s already impressive canon, across colours and styles, well beyond the obvious and expected.

The rise of Rioja’s whites is particularly of note, with all-time classics – not least CVNE’s inimitable Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva – rubbing shoulders with modern jewels such as El Pacto’s Jesús Acha.

There was of course no shortage of gems on the red front; we were blown away by the transparency and nuance of Carlos Sánchez’s La Bendecida and Miguel Merino’s La Quinta Cruz (which also makes the strongest of cases for the potential of the Mazuelo variety).

Rioja also shone closer to home, at Decanter’s tasting suite in London. We hosted producer Remírez de Ganuza at one of our ‘Decanter Presents…’ events, and bodeguero José Urtasun brought an outstanding lineup that included UV, a truly fresh (all puns intended) take on the Tempranillo variety.

We’re already looking forward to our 2026 report! And here’s to 100 years more.

Portugal & Spain (beyond Rioja)

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(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

How hard – and painfully unfair – to select only five wines for this broad section. And in a year that has delivered a memorable array of standout bottles from across the Iberian peninsula, where producers big and small are leveraging today’s many challenges to refine and assert their sense of identity.

The tough trading times have validated the efforts of those who eschew trends and remain true to themselves, reinventing tradition without losing sight of it – elements fundamental to producing wines at once timeless and excitingly modern.

The latter could definitely be said of Kopke’s 80 Year Old Tawny Port and Alves de Sousa’s Memórias; both pay tribute, in different but equally compelling ways, to the heritage of the Douro.

Tradition reinvented and classic modernity were also running themes across our inaugural Ribera del Duero report (see October 2025 issue). Among the top-scoring wines was Francisco Barona’s Finca Las Dueñas – a Reserva like no other, of robust, nuanced elegance, as charismatic as Barona himself.

Much further south, in Jerez, a new generation of equally talented vignerons is producing some of Spain’s most exciting bottles: Vinos de Pasto are the unfortified wines being produced from the same grape (Palomino Fino) and terroirs as Sherry.

I was blown away by Raúl Moreno’s (pictured above) perfect encapsulations of technical precision and maverick questioning of stylistic assumptions. Meanwhile, Juvé & Camps brought Spain’s sparkling excellence to our tasting suite for our first ‘Decanter Presents…’ event (in late October at our London W2 offices).

And the producer didn’t disappoint: during the session we tasted the standout Cava La Capella – produced exclusively from Xarel.lo, it was another affirmation of Spain’s indigenous varieties.

The best wines are, more than drinks, unforgettable experiences; these five, and many others, will linger long in my memory.


Wines of the year 2025: Spain & Portugal

Wines from Rioja are listed first then the rest of the peninsula


Rioja Report 2025: Notes on a tasting a century in the making

Ribera del Duero Report 2025: The wines redefining this premium Spanish region

Collector’s Guide: Spain

CVNE, Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018

My wines
Locked score

Amber in colour, this is a beautiful interpretation of aged white Rioja with a really extended ageing period. A Viura-dominant blend sourced from dry-farmed and...

2018

Northern SpainSpain

CVNERioja

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Viñedos El Pacto, Jesús Acha, Senda de Haro Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018

My wines

97

Subtle reduction, with struck-match aromas, add complexity to the wine. While it's reminiscent of top Burgundy, I'm hesitant to make that comparison because this is stunning in its own right. The palate is saline with fabulous texture. Mouthfilling, but supported by impressive acidity. This is a fantastic Viura (blended with small amounts of Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Jaina and others), reinterpreted for modern times. Senda de Haro is in Cárdenas, Rioja Alta, and is a 0.47ha plot, planted in 1912 on ferrous clay, that was a favourite of local grower Jésus Acha. A six-hour skin maceration precedes spontaneous fermentation then ageing for 18 months in second-use barrels from France and eastern Europe.

2018

Northern SpainSpain

Viñedos El PactoRioja

Carlos Sánchez, La Bendecida, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022

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Locked score

Bright and lively with beautiful floral notes and a broody, inviting, seductive nature. It offers a lightness of touch with a strong, muscular structure. A...

2022

Northern SpainSpain

Carlos SánchezRioja

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Miguel Merino, La Quinta Cruz Mazuelo, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022

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Locked score

Immediately inviting, this Mazuelo offers intense varietal characteristics with wild strawberries and mint aromas that opens to a silky, velvety palate with just the right...

2022

Northern SpainSpain

Miguel MerinoRioja

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Remírez de Ganuza, UV, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022

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Locked score

Remírez de Ganuza's only single varietal Tempranillo, first released in 2017, delivers another pure, transparent expression of the variety. Lifted by fragrant violets, crushed rose...

2022

Northern SpainSpain

Remírez de GanuzaRioja

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Juvé y Camps, La Capella Paraje Calificado Brut Nature, Cava de Paraje Calificado, Catalonia, Spain, 2011

My wines

96

The potential of Xarel·lo to produce world class sparkling wines is on show here. The silky mousse carries the rich flavours of honey, candied lemon, ripe pear, yellow apple and guava. The wide mid-palate is fleshed out by frangipane, buttered toast and apple strudel. Herbal nuances of wild fennel and oregano, spiced with white pepper.

2011

CataloniaSpain

Juvé y CampsCava de Paraje Calificado

Alves de Sousa, Memórias, Douro, Douro Valley, Portugal

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Locked score

This wine serves as a dynamic repository of the best vintages and plots of the 2010s. It blends, in a solera system, stand out parcels...

Douro ValleyPortugal

Alves de SousaDouro

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Francisco Barona, Finca las Dueñas Reserva, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2021

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Locked score

Such an alluring nose of graphite, leather and liquorice, with fragrant mountain herbs in the background. The palate follows with juicy plum, red cherry and...

2021

Castilla y LéonSpain

Francisco BaronaRibera del Duero

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Raúl Moreno, La Pretensión, Jerez, Vino de Pasto, Andalucia, Spain, 2022

My wines

95

Skin-macerated for three weeks and aged in Cognac barrels, this is a Moscatel like no other, with outstanding complexity and incredible aromatic detail. Oily unctuosity wraps the nectarine, red apple, kumquat, loquat and peach fruit, with jasmine and orange blossom hovering and nutmeg, lavender and cherry leaf lining the seams. Saline and mouthwatering. Pleasant lingering bitterness of orange pith and cherry pits.

2022

AndaluciaSpain

Raúl MorenoJerez

Kopke, 80 Year Old Tawny, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

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Locked score

Extraordinary depth, balance and nuance in a wine that is more an experience than a drink. Linear, vivid acid carries the dense flavours of dried...

Douro ValleyPortugal

KopkePort

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Ines Salpico
Editor

Ines is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, she grew up chasing her grandfather among his vines in Ribatejo and thus her love for all things wine began. After completing her Masters Degree in Architecture, Ines worked as a project manager while writing about wine and doing cellar consulting on the side. After moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed, while completing her WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.