Unadulterated, unoaked Italian reds beaming with freshness
Unoaked Italian reds are ideal for spring drinking, and Italy’s breadth of native grape varieties make it an exciting source for this approachable style.
Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW, Jason Millar and Stefan Neumann MS tasted 77 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 22 Highly recommended
Unoaked Italian reds: Panel tasting scores
77 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 5
Highly recommended 22
Recommended 45
Commended 5
Fair 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit red wines of any vintage from anywhere in Italy, made from grape varieties indigenous to the region of production, either 100% varietal or in a blend containing a minimum 85% of indigenous varieties; no vinification or ageing in oak of any type was permitted
Eschewing the oak
Librandi’s Tenuta Rosaneti estate
Wooden barrels have been used in the wine industry since Roman times, with producers commonly making use of local woods such as acacia, pine or chestnut.
Over time, oak became the preferred material due to its tight grain and abundance across Europe.
As winemakers recognised its positive influence on tannins and flavours, oak gained dominance in today’s wine industry.
Ripe black fruit flavours mixed with smoky (oak-derived) vanilla equals enjoyable drinking experiences for most consumers.
In the production of reds, winemakers use oak barrels or chips to add flavour and complexity, and to help soften tannins, which begs the question: don’t all red wines have oak?
There are more unoaked red wines made than we might initially realise; often they’re simpler, fruitier wines intended to be drunk young – Beaujolais and young Rioja being notable examples.
Yet no other country has more of an association with unoaked red wines than Italy.
The decision to not use oak is based on the desire to preserve the pure expression of a grape variety, to highlight regional terroir, or to create a fresher, more fruit-driven style.
Vessels such as stainless steel, concrete vats and clay amphorae allow for minimal intervention, letting inherent flavours shine – ‘wines without lipstick’ is how Jason Millar described these wines; completely exposed, without any beautification.
‘Wines that bring an element of joy to the drinker’
Gian Luca Colombo
For this tasting, 17 of Italy’s 20 regions were represented. Piedmont, Tuscany and Sicily topped the list in terms of entries.
Sangiovese was the most popular variety, followed by Barbera – understandable, given that they’re two of Italy’s most planted varieties.
The main discussion among the judges was whether an unoaked wine could be more than simple and fruity. Could it be complex and have the ‘wow factor’?
The top achievers were simple but also concentrated and delicious expressions – ‘wines that bring an element of joy to the drinker’, according to Stefan Neumann MS.
Ultimately, our question was answered.
Without oak, these wines were capable of expressing purity and a true sense of place. And they certainly had that wow factor!
What to eat with unoaked Italian reds, by Fiona Beckett
Pizza is an ideal partner for unoaked Italian red wines
So varied are these wines in terms of region and grape variety that it’s difficult to make a generalisation about wine matching, other than to focus on what kind of food unoaked Italian wines might successfully pair with in comparison with oaked wines.
By and large they’re younger, lower in alcohol and less expensive than their oaked counterparts – more for everyday or at least relaxed weekend drinking than fine dining.
In regions such as Tuscany, where red wine is predominantly an unoaked wine, it often takes the place of a white – the go-to with a homely chickpea and rosemary soup, for example, or a simple plate of pasta before moving on to a more serious wine with the meat.
Pizza is another obvious option, which isn’t to diminish these wines – it’s an underrated foil for a simple, well-made red.
With their typically pronounced acidity, unoaked reds are a natural match for salumi and, perhaps less obviously, for fish. There’s no reason why you can’t drink a light Sicilian red such as Frappato with pasta con le sarde (with sardines), for instance, or a Bardolino with some garlicky grilled prawns.
See all notes and scores from the unoaked Italian reds tasting
The judges
Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW is a widely published wine writer, consultant and WSET educator. She is the current chair of the study program for the Institute of Masters of Wine, and is the DWWA Regional Chair for Tuscany
Jason Millar is a writer, consultant, judge and communicator with a focus on Italy. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and is the newly appointed DWWA Regional Chair for Southern Italy
Stefan Neumann MS runs his own wine consultancy, having spent many years working in the world of Michelin-starred restaurants. He also works as wine and portfolio consultant for UK distributor John E Fells, and is a DWWA Regional Chair across different categories
Unoaked Italian reds panel tasting results:
Wines were tasted blind
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