Situated between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is one of Europe’s smallest countries. A hearty spirit is required for winemaking here, where freezing winds are a common occurrence. Yet it is these winds that provide the cooling influences needed for more gentle, slow ripening despite the fierce Moldovan sun. Soils are predominantly alluvial: composed of a mix of sand, clay, limestone and a thin layer of dark, nutrient-rich chernozem.
The changing face of Moldovan wine
It may not be the most well-known winemaking country, yet producers have quietly revolutionised the industry in recent decades, creating quality wines with personality. After a century of political and cultural upheaval, Moldova has carved its own path and secured a strong future for the sector. Quality continues to rise and the country’s wines have won over 7,000 medals at international competitions in the last five years.
Moldova’s wine industry now benefits from more rigorous traceability standards and quality controls, and dynamic marketing that has opened new markets. In 2024 Moldova exported bottled wine to 69 countries, with its top markets being the USA, Romania, the Czech Republic, Poland and the Netherlands, with 51% of exports destined for Europe.
The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) has chosen Moldova to host the 46th World Congress of Vine and Wine from 16-20 June 2025, recognising the country’s work towards sustainability, and further raising Moldova’s winemaking profile. This milestone event, which will be held in the capital city of Chișinău, marks a key moment for the country, where over 700 experts will come together to grapple with the future challenges and opportunities that the wine industry faces.
Ion Luca, winemaker at Carpe Diem. Photograph provided by Carpe Diem.
Keeping things local
Like many small and dynamic producers in Moldova today, Ion Luca of Carpe Diem is committed to promoting indigenous varieties. ‘They are unique and give us a better chance to survive,’ explains Luca. With so much competition in international markets, particularly at premium price points, local grapes offer differentiation. Luca is particularly enthusiastic about Viorica, a white variety that is proving very versatile. It is the protagonist in a new dry wine in his range, as well as an orange wine and even a late-harvest sweet wine that won a Best of Show award at Mundus Vini.
Dimitrii Titica, president of Radacini. Photograph provided by Radacini.
Another reason for celebration
‘Our historical habits of celebrations heavily drive the popping of bottles,’ president at Radacini, Dmitrii Titica is excited about growing sparkling wine consumption, which in Moldova outstrips that of still wine. The country has a long tradition of sparkling production, thanks to perfect conditions in Codru PGI in the centre of the country, where a cooler climate produces grapes with good acidity.
Titica is encouraged by the development of different styles: ‘We have seen a steady switch from semi-dry products to Brut, Extra Brut and even recently Brut Nature.’ Radacini’s own range includes delicious sparkling wines from indigenous grapes such as Viorica and Fetească Albă, as well as the award-winning Métier line of traditional-method sparkling wines.
Vasile Roșca, president of the Divin PGI Association. Photograph provided by Wine of Moldova.
History distilled
Moldova also enjoys a long tradition of brandy production. These distilled wine spirits undergo significant ageing and are classified within the Divin PGI (meaning divine in Romanian). ‘What makes Divin so special is its harmonious blend of tradition, terroir and time-honoured craftsmanship,’ explains Vasile Roșca, president of the Divin PGI Association, ‘It’s a soulful expression of a place and its people, starting in the 19th century.’
These brandies follow a strict categorisation to maintain quality, according to defined minimum ageing requirements. ‘This patience results in a depth of flavour that’s both complex and approachable,’ states Roșca: ‘You’re not just tasting a drink – you’re experiencing the spirit of Moldova, a piece of history, a labour of love passed down through generations.’
Sergiu Pislaru, director of Sălcuța. Photograph provided by Sălcuța.
Setting new expectations
For Sergiu Pislaru, director at the Sălcuța winery in the Ștefan Vodă region, the UK market is proving very receptive to its wines. Highly successful on the export market, Sălcuța’s unique offerings include white blends of Viorica, Chardonnay and Riesling, as well as its Winemaker’s Way Fetească Neagră, a celebration of an ancient variety that thrives in the terroirs of south-eastern Moldova.
From local grapes Viorica and Rară Neagră to Divin and world-class bubbles, Moldova’s wines and spirits are setting new expectations.
Decanter World Wine Award winning wines to try
Vinaria Purcari, Nocturne Rară Neagră, Ștefan Voda 2022
95pts
100% Rară Neagră. Alive with crunchy red bramble fruits and bounteous florals, full of energy and verve. Supple and smoky with refined tannins and a crisp freshness on the finish.
Alc 13.5%
Vinaria Purcari, Academia Limited Edition Rară Neagră, Ștefan Voda 2020
95pts
100% Rară Neagră. A generosity of damson, cherry and forest fruit which dances over the subtle oak and slate-like texture. Velvety and sleek with a long mint-infused finish.
Alc 13%
Gitana Winery, Manastirea Rohrbach Cru, Valul Lui Traian 2020
95pts
100% Riesling. Enthralling lime, lemon zest and ripe yellow peaches infuse perfectly with the engaging waxy texture and lingering, lifted acidity. Stony and austere towards the salty finish.
Alc 13.5%
Crama Mircesti, Fetească Albă, 2022
95pts
100% Fetească Albă. Delightful lemon blossom, white peach and fresh apple flavours gently lap against the mineral backbone and whistle clean acidity. Beautifully made with a long elegant finish.
Alc 12.5%
Chateáu Vartely, Individo Rară Neagră-Malbec-Syrah, 2021
95pts
37% Rară Neagră, 33% Malbec, 30% Syrah. Lavish spiced plums, blackberry and red cherry notes which interact skilfully with an undercurrent of nutty oak and coffee. Plump and buoyant with elegant tannins.
Alc 13%
Casa Vinicola Luca, Carpe Diem Fetească Alba, Codru 2022
95pts
100% Fetească Albă. Delicious white peach, melon and crunchy green apple notes bustle and swirl over the lime peel acidity and delicate mineral character. Long, pure and saline.
Alc 13%
Seek out these Gold medal-winners from specialist Moldovan wine importers transylvaniawine.co.uk and winechateau.co.uk
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