American discoveries: 10 USA wines to try
The Decanter team looks back at notes from recent tastings and picks exciting – and some great-value – bottles from the USA worth stocking up on.
Seasonal transitions are always a good moment to take stock. Over the past few weeks, with the ‘back to school/work buzz’ palpable, the Decanter team has been looking at the multiple notes pilling up from summer and early autumn tastings in anticipation of a busy couple of months ahead. We had the pleasure of discovering new producers and wines and also revisit some favourites, confirming the great job they are doing year-on-year.
Exciting winemaking communities, east and west
That’s certainly true of the Finger Lakes, in New York State, and Santa Rita Hills, in Santa Barbara, California, hotspots of refined, terroir-driven winemaking. You’ll find a few examples below, worth buying, drinking and in some cases cellaring. The Joy Fantastic Pinot Noir and Osmote’s Chardonnay could be even more delicious in a few years. If you can resist until then… You can also taste The Joy Fantastic next to Red Newt’s Pinot to get a sense of how well the fussy grape fares on both coasts.
Something old and something new
Did you know there are plantings of Albariño in the Hudson River Valley? We did but hadn’t yet tasted it. When we finally got hold of Fjord Vineyard’s we were surprised by its character, gastronomic appeal and straightforward deliciousness.
It’s always worth revisiting classics and Hedges Family Estate’s old-vine Bel’Vitta Syrah may well fall in that category – an expression of a grape and producer synonym with the Red Mountain. The 2015 is drinking beautifully and is certainly good value for what it delivers.
Value to be found
Speaking of value, who says you need to break the bank to get a proper USA bottle? Chateau Ste Michele’s Dry Riesling and Power’s Cabernet Sauvignon are more than proper and go for less than £15. And the Tendu Cortese from Matthiasson is a joy of value and convenience inside its one-litre bottle, deserving a place at your dinner party table.
There’s much to discover in this short, but not modest, selection of North American wines, some more experimental, others more classic, all unpretentiously honest about what they are and can deliver.
A selection of 10 USA wines to try:
Wines shown in score order.
Related content:
Dark rosé wines for late summer drinking – 12 to try
Autumn wine under £25: 20 wines to try
The Joy Fantastic, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2017
93
A vibrant, elegant Pinot Noir with a fine savoury edge and subtle floral notes. Complex yet approachable and so dangerously drinkable. The palate has a delicious, filigreed texture, with weaved layers of crunchy red berries, dried sage and dried violets. Fine tannins and an alluring, fine acidity. Long and delicious finish.
2017
The Joy FantasticSanta Barbara County
Osmote, Seneca Lake Chardonnay, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2018
92
Spontaneously fermented in oak barrels, this Chardonnay is a great showcase of winemaker Ben Riccardi's intuitive skill to harness the grape's textural potential and verve. Mouthfilling and generous, with a delicious, crunchy mid-palate and a long finish. Amazing tension running through the complex, gently saline palate. Lingering flavours of preserved lemon, apple peel and roasted almonds. There’s a seductive muscular aspect to it which suggests it will develop well in bottle.
2018
OsmoteFinger Lakes
Red Newt Cellars, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2016
92
As the name (and useful back-label sweetness scale) details, this is dry, but ripe apricot flavours give it a honeyed note that offsets the mouthwatering acidity, wet-stone mineral tang and palate grip. Youthful, with orange blossom aromas, melon and candied lime.
2016
Red Newt CellarsFinger Lakes
Red Newt Cellars, Glacier Ridge Vineyards Pinot Noir, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2016
92
Spätburgunder-like in character, this is layered and complex in a sinewy yet punchy medium-bodied style. Notes of tea leaf, undergrowth, floral talc, musk and tart red cherry, with vibrant acidity, gentle oak spicing and dusty tannins.
2016
Red Newt CellarsFinger Lakes
Hedges Family Estate, Goedhart Family Syrah, Bel'Villa Vineyard, Red Mountain, Washington, USA, 2015
92
Delicious old-vine Syrah from a family estate synonymous with Red Mountain. Ripe red cherry and dried herb aromas, then a savoury, smooth stewed plum and dark chocolate palate with a saline, stony length. Delicate weight and alcohol for such a hot vintage and well-judged oak in support.
2015
Hedges Family EstateRed Mountain
Fjord Vineyards, Albariño, Hudson River, New York State, USA, 2019
91
From an experimental plot planted in 2013, showing how well Albariño fares beyond Galicia and Northern Portugal. It has certainly found a proper home in the Hudson Valley's Fjord Vineyards, gaining complexity during the region's long growing season while resisting the harsh winters. All hand-harvested and cold soaked for 4 hours prior to fermentation embracing the phenolic potential of Albariño's thick skins. Amazing texture and a good mineral backbone supporting the richness of orchard and rip citrus fruit. A great food wine that will pair amazingly with seared tuna, aged cheeses or even some pork belly - it certainly has the acidity and bite for it! At once rich and energetic.
2019
Fjord VineyardsHudson River
Matthiasson, Tendu Cortese, Sacramento Valley, Clarksburg, California, USA, 2019
91
One of five organic bottlings under this second label from Steve Matthiasson and wife Jill, created as easy-drinking wines. Here, Piedmont's Gavi grape of Cortese shows good varietal character of plum, melon, textured peach skin and crisp citrus acidity. Grilled fish please!
2019
MatthiassonSacramento Valley
L'Ecole No 41, Semillon, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA, 2018
91
A rich style, bursting from the glass with beeswax, melon and custard apple perfume. There's similar intensity and complexity on the palate, with green apple acidity cutting through the exotic fruit weight, creamy lees and lanolin notes. A big wine that should age well.
2018
L'Ecole No 41Columbia Valley
Powers, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA, 2017
90
There’s practically no Washington wine in the UK under £20. This mid-bodied Bordeaux blend is a welcome and great-value exception, boasting forward notes of dried red berries, cherry cola spice and smooth vanilla oak tannins.
2017
PowersColumbia Valley
Chateau Ste Michelle, Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA, 2020
89
Fun fact: Chateau Ste Michelle is the world's largest single producer of Riesling, and this one (while not as popular stateside as the medium-dry 'normal' version) offers enjoyable drinking. Zesty acidity lifts pear juice, florals and firm peach flesh to a round, lactic finish. Great with prawn ceviche.
2020
Chateau Ste MichelleColumbia Valley
