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Decanter travel guide: Etruscan Riviera, Italy

Luciana Lynch explores a stretch of the Maremma coast where Super Tuscans rub shoulders with Etruscan remains. Dodge the steelworks and catch the sunset...

Etruscan Riviera, Italy: Where to stay, shop, eat and relax


Castello di Bolgheri
At the heart of this estate is the 15th-century castle which frames the entrance to the village. Cellar visits are possible and agriturismo (farm-stays) are on offer along the cypress-lined road to San Guido.

Tombolo Talasso Resort
Deep pockets are needed here, but for top-class pampering and thalassotherapy with sea-water pools, join the VIP guests at Castagneto-Carducci, with beach, accommodation and restaurant.

Agriturismo La Bulichella
Award-winning accommodation above the winery, in a bucolic hillside setting in Suvereto. The restaurant serves simple, traditional, local cuisine using the estate’s own organic produce and wines.

La Sorgente
A new boutique hotel in Piombino overlooking the sea and Elba. There are eight individually themed rooms (all with a sea view), an infinity pool, fitness centre, beach access and restaurant offering refined yet traditional cuisine based on local ingredients of the highest standard.

Poggio All’Agnello Country and Beach Residential Resort
Less than 2km from Baratti and the archaeological site, a vast new resort with Olympic-sized swimming pool, extensive sports facilities, wellness centre and 202 self-contained apartments, with restaurant at hand. There’s a frequent shuttle service to Baratti.


Gualdo del Re
The restaurant adjoining the winery in Suvereto is highly rated, with wild boar featuring prominently on the menu. The nearby agriturismo accomodation (with pool) is of the highest standard and comfort in a peaceful, rural setting.

Taverna dei Boncompagni
In the heart of Piombino’s delightful historic centre, just by the pretty town hall, this taverna offers beautifully presented, largely sea-inspired cuisine with a gourmet twist, matched by an extensive, well-chosen wine list.


Enoteca Tognoni
Gaze at the range of local wines, maybe taste a few by the glass while enjoying a delicious lunch in this historic setting in Bolgheri – you can choose a bottle to be served with your meal at no extra charge.

Arte e Moda
This historic tailor is in the central street of pretty Castagneto – Florin Cristea handmakes traditional Maremma country-style jackets. Don’t be surprised to come across Mick Jagger or Bryan Ferry, regular customers here, along with the occasional British or Tuscan aristo.
+39 (0)565 763694

Il Barretto
In the unlikely setting of an espresso bar adjoining a Conad supermarket in Piombino is this small enoteca, with a big selection of local wines, and some from further afield. Great espresso, too.
+39 (0)3391 864 863


Combine fun and wellbeing with a few hours at this Etruscan natural spring in Venturina: hot-water lake, thermarium, massage, cosmetic treatments, along with dining facilities, accommodation and a great pizzeria.

Museo Archeologico
In Piombino’s citadel overlooking the sea, this is a must for anyone interested in Etruscan civilisation. A vast collection, with evidence of the role of iron and the importance of vines.

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