Michelin ranks Bordeaux châteaux in new ‘grapes’ selection 

Bordeaux châteaux from Médoc to St-Emilion have been ranked under the new Michelin ‘grapes’ selection, following the system's debut in Burgundy earlier this year.

There have been several attempts to reconfigure Bordeaux estates featured in famous 1855 Classification. Other classifications, such as those of St-Emilion or Cru Bourgeois, are revised at set intervals.

While Michelin’s ranking may raise a few eyebrows, it also puts a fresh spotlight on this historic fine wine region.

Nine estates were awarded the top-tier ‘three grapes’. From Médoc, Pauillac-based Lafite Rothschild is joined by two 1855 second growths: St-Estèphe’s Montrose and St-Julien’s Léoville Las Cases.

Both were already considered members of a prominent, yet unofficial, group of 'super seconds'. Michelin highlighted efforts at Montrose to ‘further refine vineyard management’ in recent years, with the grand vin focused on the estate’s ‘finest historic plots’.

First growths Châteaux Mouton Rothschild, Margaux and Haut-Brion were among 16 estates awarded two grapes.

Fellow first growth Château Latour was one of the highest-profile estates not listed. A Michelin spokesperson said this reflected its process, rather than a final judgement, and emphasised that its guide is the first edition of a selection that will be reassessed annually.

'Our methodology takes a long-term view of each estate, assessing its work as a whole and its ability to deliver quality consistently over time.

'For a small number of estates, including Château Latour, our evaluation process had not been fully completed by the time this inaugural selection was finalised, and our inspectors had therefore not yet reached a collegiate conclusion. In full respect of the rigour, independence, and integrity of our methodology, we chose not to publish an assessment of these estates at this stage.'

Legendary Sauternes estate Château d’Yquem also features in Michelin’s top tier, with five more estates on the Right Bank also awarded three grapes.

In Pomerol, Petrus is joined by La Conseillante, plus Lafleur (now a Vin de France). Cheval Blanc and Figeac are the St-Emilion estates ranked at this level.

Other estates with two grapes include Pichon Comtesse and Pichon Baron, Palmer, Angélus, Canon, Vieux Château Certan and Les Carmes Haut-Brion, among others.

Michelin also gave one grape to 37 properties, with a further 21 wineries listed in a ‘Michelin Selected’ category.

Michelin’s one-grape tier included Lynch-Bages, Cos d’Estournel, Trotanoy, Le Pin, Léoville-Barton and Bélair-Monange.

Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin guide, said of the Bordeaux launch: 'This selection reveals a region deeply loyal to its history, yet never static. Behind the great internationally renowned labels, our inspectors uncovered a new generation of winemakers, estates deeply committed to their craft, and expertise in constant evolution, all in service of an ever more precise and authentic expression of terroir.'

When Michelin announced its expansion into wine, it said properties would be judged on five criteria, including ‘quality of agronomy’ – related to vineyard management – plus ‘technical mastery’, ‘identity’, ‘balance’ and ‘consistency’. Wines would be evaluated across multiple vintages.

The group plans to expand its Michelin grapes system to other wine regions in France and worldwide.

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