Pick the unexpected – Central and Eastern European wines to try this summer

You’re in the mood for something a little unexpected. A conversation opener for a lingering summer evening with friends. A refreshing glass or two with a good story attached. A variety you can’t pronounce with origins that offer alluring potential for that quick get-away from the sweltering desk job.

Then look no further than the wines of Central and Eastern Europe (CEE).

The Ultimate Central and Eastern Europe wine fair, now in its third year, takes place in London each June. Showcasing wines spanning Armenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Cyprus, Greece, Hungary and even Georgia, the trade fair’s burgeoning success is testament to the growing interest and array of wine styles these lesser-known regions can offer.

And don’t just take our word for it. We asked three regional experts for their view.

For wine specialist and DWWA co-chair Beth Willard, we are just seeing the tip of the iceberg. ‘These are old wine-producing countries that have undergone something of a renaissance over the last 20–30 years, and now we are seeing just how good these wines are.’

The personal touch

And one of the key reasons for this growing interest? The personal side of things. As regional expert and CEE fair organiser Caroline Gilby MW puts it, ‘I love the human story: I think that is what is so exciting about this part of the world’.

Recent decades have witnessed a huge wave of investment and winemaking experimentation. For regional specialist and fellow CEE fair organiser Zsuzsa Toronyi, ‘CEE wines also come with compelling stories. Many family-owned wineries have revived historic vineyards and traditions, creating wines that reflect local culture, heritage, and a strong sense of place’.

As new generations take the lead of these revived traditional family wineries, excellence is to be found from both international and local varieties. In the mood for pale pink bubbles? Try a Moldovan pink spumant from Dom Davidescu made from the Rară Neagră variety. Keen on a traditional Blanc de Noirs style? Why not pick up a bottle of Serbian producer Aleksandrović's saline and steely Trijumf Noir Brut.

Travel through the glass to the Croatian island of Vis, where intriguing red wines are made from the local Plavac Mali variety. Pair a sticky Tarte Tatin with a decadently sweet late harvest Furmint–Muscat blend from Hungary.

Taste widely. Most importantly, have fun while you are at it.

A journey of discovery that’s kind on the wallet

More than a mere talking point for the table, there is great value to be found among these lesser-known discovery varieties and regions. As Toronyi comments, ‘They offer a combination of quality, value, authenticity, and discovery that is increasingly hard to find in more established wine regions’.

Bolstered by year-on-year successes at the Decanter World Wine Awards and a promising rise in carefully curated wine bar lists featuring lesser-known wines, the diversity on the UK market is exciting.

As Gilby puts it, ‘You may still have to hunt down some of these wines with specialist importers and indies, but even some supermarkets are recognising that CEE wines deserve space in their ranges.’

Five wines to try

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