Grape escapes – off the beaten track in Dalmatia

The glistening waters of Dalmatia’s Adriatic coast attract millions of tourists every year.

Some come for the sea air, others to experience the region’s ancient history and, of course, some are drawn by the spectacular backdrop to Game of Thrones.

But perhaps the most enjoyable and relaxed way to explore Dalmatia is through its high-quality wines and unique grape varieties.

With over 5,500 hectares of vineyards, there is plenty to explore. The grape names may not be household names (yet) but varieties like Plavac Mali, Tribidag, Pošip, Maraština and Debit will take you on a journey from north to south – and even island hopping – across this wonderful region.

Carved from Stone

Just a few kilometres from the town of Primošten, around an hour’s drive west of Split along the coast, Bukovac is an extraordinary vineyard area covering just 18.4 hectares.

Vines are carved into the rocky terrain, painstakingly excavated and transformed entirely by hand.

The grape grown here is Babić, a red variety planted in a mosaic-like pattern across tiny square plots bordered by low stone walls.

This honeycomb or lace-like pattern creates a striking impression: a moon-like landscape criss-crossing a small slope that cascades towards the Adriatic Sea.

And the wines are well worth the visit. Red cherry fruits and Mediterranean herbs combine to produce structured and mineral reds.

Go fishing

Have you ever thought about fishing in a vineyard?

Away from the coast in the area around Vrgorac, the Gašpar wines are grown in a valley close to one of Dalmatia’s largest mountains, Biokovo.

The soils are very white, a result of the lake that used to be here until it was drained to allow for the construction of a tunnel in 1938.

Now planted with vines, the valley is flooded for more than three months a year, sometimes more.

The waters recede each year in time for the growing season, leaving behind reserves of wines that help the Plavka (Plavina) vines.

In the meantime, producers like Gašpar, whose vineyards are planted in this very unusual site, profit from the temporary lake by setting up nets and catching catfish!

Island hopping

No trip to Dalmatia is complete without some island hopping in the sun. But why not explore the vineyards of islands such as Brač, Hvar and Korčula?

While the islands share the salty influence of the sea and limestone soils, each has its own character defined by distinctive landscapes.

If you like hiking, you could climb the higher-altitude vineyards of Brač, grown on dramatic white karst and rock.

But if you’re looking for richer, bolder wine styles, perhaps Hvar is more your pace with its sunshine, heat and red terra rossa soils.

Korčula, meanwhile, will appeal to those looking for a greener escape, thanks to its cooler, sheltered coastal vineyards and the hilly terrain of its interior.

Why not make your next journey to Croatia a vinous escape?

Pack your walking shoes – perhaps even some wellies – and venture off the beaten track in Dalmatia.

The Dalmatia grape expedition – 10 wines to try

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