A sparkling legacy from Graham Beck

Lovers of traditional method sparkling wine know that South Africa’s Cap Classique is a style to look out for. And for Cap Classique aficionados, one name is in a league of its own: Graham Beck. Founded in Robertson in 1983 by the late entrepreneur Graham Beck, the winery quickly established itself as a leading light in the production of quality Cap Classique.

From its Classic Brut and Rosé, through vintage releases such as Blanc de Blancs and Pinot Noir Rosé to icon bottling Cuvée Clive, Graham Beck has gained an international reputation for its portfolio of South African fizz. But this year the winery has spread its wings beyond the Cape, with the release of its first-ever English sparkling wine.

The new Graham Beck Artisan Collection English Sparkling 2018 is a limited-release blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, made with fruit sourced from four growers in Hampshire and West Sussex.

Video supplied by Graham Beck.

Cape crusaders

The pioneering project has been overseen by Graham Beck’s founding cellarmaster Pieter ‘Bubbles’ Ferreira and current cellarmaster Pierre de Klerk. It marks the duo’s final collaboration before Ferreira’s retirement, though making sparkling wine outside of South Africa was an idea that Ferreira had been contemplating for many years.

‘Champagne is obviously the ultimate benchmark for any winemaker in the sparkling wine world,’ he explains. ‘But we also did study tours to Franciacorta; we’ve been in Cava country and I’ve been visiting the UK vineyards since the days when there were only three or four wineries here.’

But the idea of making wine in England really took hold during a trip to Düsseldorf trade fair ProWein in 2016. ‘South Africa was in the New World hall, and next to the South African stand was Wine GB – brand new,’ remembers Ferreira. ‘There were maybe 10 producers.’ The hype around this new English sparkling scene caught his attention.

English explorations

Later in 2016, Ferreira toured key wine regions across southern England with his old friend Antony Beck, Graham Beck’s son and chairman of the winery, who shared his long-held faith in limestone, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Ian Kellett, the former owner of Hambledon Vineyard in Hampshire, England’s oldest commercial vineyard, had spent years mapping the region’s geology and opened his research to them.

Ferreira explains: ‘When we began studying the vineyards and chalk soils of southern England, we recognised the potential immediately.’ Chalk formations in the South Downs – similar to those in Champagne – impart a distinctive mineral backbone to wines. The region's cool maritime climate aids the creation of base wines with vibrant acidity and pure aromas.

There was no time to waste. Buying land and establishing Graham Beck vineyards in England would have been a 10-year project before first vintage. So Ferreira decided to set up contracts with selected growers and arranged access to cellar space in Hampshire, nicknaming the new project GBinGB – Graham Beck in Great Britain.

‘A fantastic year’

Production began in 2018, which has since come to be widely regarded as one of finest English vintages to date. ‘2018 was a gorgeous vintage in the UK,’ confirms Ferreira. ‘It was beautiful and ripe. It was sunny – a fantastic year.’

Ferreira visited the vineyards to determine harvest dates and remained hands-on throughout the vinification of the separate parcels of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, which were assessed individually before assemblage.

A small proportion of the base wines underwent fermentation in neutral French oak, adding texture and complexity to the final cuvée. It was bottled early to maximise extended lees maturation, creating the signature Graham Beck creaminess.

Continuing the legacy

For De Klerk, who joined the winery in 2010, the new cuvée fits neatly into the Graham Beck portfolio and its winemaking philosophy. ‘This wine reflects both the character of its English terroir and the precision and patience that define the House style. It’s a continuation of our pursuit of the perfect bubble,’ he says.

Continuity has been seamless as Ferreira departs. ‘Working with Pieter for 16 years and being in charge of all winemaking procedures the last eight-odd years have given me enough experience to smoothly and confidently take the brand forward,’ he says.

What’s on the horizon? ‘First and foremost is the consistency and continuity of style and quality, especially as far as our NV Cap Classiques are concerned,’ says De Klerk. He is also keen to gain wider recognition for Graham Beck’s vintage range and will continue to push boundaries with the Artisan Collection. ‘Finding unique and exciting sites and pockets of grapes will help elevate the overall quality of our portfolio and help us become more widely recognised and respected within our own landscape, but also on the international scene.’

Graham Beck Artisan Collection English Sparkling 2018 will be available in the UK later this year, and in South Africa through Port2Port.

Read the related editorial tasting note here:

Learn more about Graham Beck

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