Meet the sommelier: Lasse Peder Nielsen of Copenhagen's Restaurant Koan

At my first job after moving to Copenhagen when I was 18 years old, the owner, Henrik Laszlo, saw this young guy showing an interest in hospitality – and in wine specifically – on a level beyond what he was used to.

One of the first times we sat down after a busy service one night, I kept asking questions about wine and Champagne. He answered everything and got up from the table, coming back with a bottle of Dom Pérignon 1996, and a bottle of Salon 1996.

That was the first time I tasted both Champagnes, in an exceptional vintage that really got me hooked. I stayed at that restaurant for five years and ended up running the place and its wine list.

German Rieslings – Peter Jakob Kühn is one of my favourite producers.

I know it sounds a bit snobbish, which I’m not, but I don’t think I have bought wine in a Danish supermarket for at least 10 years.

In my first job ever in hospitality, I dropped a full tray of welcome drinks down a guest’s neck. That was a very long shift.

Wines that are faulty but are justified by them being ‘natural’.

Château d’Yquem and terrine de foie gras with apricot jam and toasted brioche.

At the moment, our serving of gamasot rice with cured squid, Danish fjord shrimps, trout roe, preserved citrus and toasted beech nuts, paired with Stella Mary, a Danish sparkling wine from Helle and Jacob Stokkebye made from Pinot Noir from Fyn, 150km west of Copenhagen.

I’m a simple man. It’s always a slice or two of rye bread with whatever cold cut or cheese I have in the fridge, and a glass of whichever leftover Champagne is available from the restaurant.

I’m proud to be serving Krug Clos du Mesnil by the glass.

Another of our Danish producers, Njord, which is located 65km west of Copenhagen. Sune Albertsen is a true magician and has really cracked the code for producing Pinot Noir Précoce in Denmark.

I have been triggered a few times in blind tastings myself, and it’s a favourite to pull out as a blind wine for guests in the restaurant as well.

There aren’t too many wines I would avoid; my choice will most often depend on what we will be eating. I’ll probably never order a Gewürztraminer, though.

Champagne, always Champagne. I think I could drink Champagne at any time of day.

I’ve never really learned to enjoy Alsatian Gewürztraminer. Sorry to all the fantastic producers in Alsace – it’s not you, it’s me.

Valais and Vaud in Switzerland and Jurançon in southern France. Wines from younger producers such as Jordi Renard at Maison Vulpin in Vaud and Lucas Mandonia in Valais are super value for money in my opinion.

Champagne, of course. I like staying in Reims and I always go to Brasserie Le Jardin. Beautiful location and great food and wine.