Forget the jammy, oak-laden Pinots of the early 2000s. Fruit purity remains but today’s wines are fresher, sleeker and increasingly savoury; whole-bunch is popular, oak is mostly in the background. Central Otago’s diverse sub-regions are united by their concentrated darker fruit, Marlborough offers a juicy, redder spectrum, while Martinborough offers savoury structure.
Go exploring
New Zealand’s long, thin, mountainous geography heightens regional and sub-regional distinctions. Central Otago, Marlborough and Martinborough Pinots are already on most radars – but look also to Nelson (lush fruit) and cooler inland Hawke’s Bay (Te Mata’s 2024s are especially sharp). North Canterbury (cool, boutique, complex) and tiny, ultra-cool, pure-fruited Waitaki Valley in North Otago share an NZ rarity: limestone-laced soils.
Cool climate, hot light
Don’t be fooled by ‘cool climate’ alone – New Zealand light is brilliantly, sharply intense, thanks to pollution-free skies and high UV. Diurnal swings are marked – as much as 30°C or more in Central Otago, the world’s southernmost commercial wine region. They elongate ripening without acid loss, creating a sweet spot for layered, complex Pinots that are very food friendly – think spring lamb, duck, rich salmon dishes and mushroom risotto.
Vintage smarts
Changeable weather and diverse growing regions mean vintage really matters – even neighbouring sub-regions can tell very different stories both within and across years. Right now, the nationally excellent 2024 and 2025 vintages are on shelves: succulent, bright, well structured, built to age (5-10 years is a good drinking window though the best will go 10-15+).
Green world
New Zealand hit 98% SWNZ-certified sustainable vineyards in 2016 and has maintained that level since; more than 30% of Central Otago’s vineyards are now certified organic and regenerative viticulture is on the rise nationally.
Following a Diploma of Viticulture and Winemaking, Emma Jenkins achieved the Master of Wine qualification in 2011, becoming the ninth New Zealander to do so. She is a wine consultant and also writes for several wine publications, including The Independent Wine Monthly which she co-edits with Jane Skilton MW. A former judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards, Jenkins also judges at other local and international competitions. She teaches Wine and Spirit Education Trust courses and is the Master of Wine Research Paper Chair.
