Panel tasting results: Alluring Alentejo reds
Within the Alentejo reds category, the quality is high, but does this Portuguese region have something of an identity problem?
Ines Salpico, Matthew Forster MW and Valentin Radosav tasted 137 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 44 Highly recommended
Alentejo reds: Panel tasting scores
137 wines tasted
Outstanding 2
Highly recommended 44
Recommended 85
Commended 6
Learn more about Decanter's blind-tasting process and scoring system.
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Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their red wines from DOP Alentejo, IGP Vinho Regional Alentejano and DOP Alentejo Vinho de Talha
Smooth development
For a long time, the reds of Alentejo in south-central Portugal fell into one of two categories: robust, plush, fruit-led wines with wide commercial appeal in mind and rustic, frank wines destined for local consumption.
This tasting showed that the region’s reds have come a long way since the early 21st century, when investment began to pour into the region and a new generation of producers began to experiment with different approaches, increasingly concerned with brand-building and international commercial viability.
The question is whether this quest is headed in the right direction and/or if producers are asking the right questions. Is there a true sense of regional (or even sub-regional) typicity?
Are producers any closer to finding the essence of a fine Alentejo red?
Closer, definitely, but on the evidence of this tasting, they’re not there yet.
‘The quality is really high’
Dona Maria's entrance (see recommendations)
Most producers still seem to be pursuing their idea of what an Alentejo red should be (or what they think consumers want it to be), rather than allowing the fruit to give them the necessary clues.
‘We’re seeing such different profiles. It feels like producers are following a style or recipe,’ said Valentin Radosav.
Matthew Forster MW and I agreed, also noting a recurring reliance on a rather heavy-handed use of oak.
On the other hand, our tasting suggested that some producers are forging a different path.
‘This particular sweet-sour quality of the fruit, combined with a herbal, spicy, refreshing twist, is something I’ve picked up in the last couple of days. It’s quite distinct,’ Forster said.
If undisturbed by the overuse of wood, the wines showed a truly particular character with that fruit, at once ripe and teasingly green, cradled by a resinous, meaty texture.
As expected, Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira were the grapes that performed best, but there were also intriguing examples of Moreto, Baga and Syrah, an international variety capable of great things in Alentejo.
Overall, as Forster pointed out, ‘the quality is really high’, leaving the question of expressiveness and typicity, but not technical ability, not yet fully answered.
The path forward might involve a return to something closer to those old, rustic wines consumed locally, embodying the harsh contrasts Alentejo is made of – a place of robust, austere elegance and unassuming generosity, just like its best reds.
What to eat with Alentejo reds, by Fiona Beckett
With their ‘sweet-sour quality and herbal, spicy twist’, as Matthew Forster MW evocatively described them, Alentejo reds have something in common with Italian reds and go well with Italian food.
However, the variety of styles exhibited here makes it hard to generalise – not least because some of the top-ranking wines were from mature vintages, which might be less typical than younger wines.
Nevertheless Italian food – particularly Tuscan food – wouldn’t be a bad match for many of these Alicante Bouschet-based wines.
Think roasts – especially pot roasts – stews, beans and baked pasta dishes such as lasagne, exactly the hearty sort of food that appeals at this time of year. (There’s a Portuguese lamb stew called ensopado de borrego that would work perfectly.)
Pork – particularly porco preto, Portugal’s equivalent of Spain’s acorn-fed Iberico pork – would also be a good call: dishes such as carne de porco à alentejana (pork and clams) or cozido, a ribsticking dish of simmered meats and chickpeas, would make a great pairing for these robust wines.
See all notes and scores from the Alentejo reds tasting
The judges
Ines Salpico is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, after moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.
Matthew Forster MW is an independent wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of the Wine Partnership. A former director at WSET, he has a particular passion for the food and wine cultures of Spain, Portugal and South America
Valentin Radosav is learning and development manager for 5-star hotels in London. A qualified Advanced Sommelier and a DWWA judge, he was formerly head sommelier at Michelin starred Gymkhana restaurant in Mayfair
Alentejo reds panel tasting results
Wines were tasted blind
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Herdade do Rocim, Grande Rocim Tinto, Alentejo, Portugal 2024

Blackberry, plum and violet meet chocolate, leather and a stony mineral note. Full-bodied but poised, with crunchy fruit, ripe tannins, bright acidity and sweet spice....
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Herdade do Sobroso, Cellar Selection Syrah-Alicante Bouschet, Alentejo, Portugal 2023

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José Maria da Fonseca, José de Sousa Mayor, Alentejano, Portugal 2019

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Herdade do Sobroso, Grande Reserva Tinto, Alentejo, Portugal 2022

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Herdade do Sobroso
Herdade do Rocim, Vinha da Micaela, Alentejo, Portugal 2021

Blackberry, cherry and mulberry wrapped in thyme, sage and tarragon. Firm, concentrated, with dense, fine-grained tannins, chocolate and smoky grip, lifted by cherry-stone freshness.
2021
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Herdade do Rocim
Tapada de Coelheiros, Tinto, Alentejo, Portugal 2022

Cherry and blackberry outlined by vivid acidity, wild herb and black olive. Concentrated, robust, with dense, grippy tannins and a tart lift. Oak remains slightly...
2022
AlentejoPortugal
Tapada de Coelheiros
Tiago Cabaço, Blog Bivarietal, Alentejano, Portugal 2023

Blackberry and prune meet potpourri, Assam tea and mint chocolate. Dense yet elegant, the palate layers robust tannins, clove, black olive and forest floor. Finishes...
2023
AlentejanoPortugal
Tiago Cabaço
Quinta do Paral, Superior Tinto, Alentejo, Portugal 2023

Opens with bramble, plum, dark berry, chocolate and baking spice. Plush, full-bodied, the palate with dried thyme, sage and tarragon. An earthy, balsamic, oak-spiced finish.
2023
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Quinta do Paral
Ines Salpico is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, after moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.