Why you should snap up any 2016 Côte-Rôtie you see
After a retrospective tasting of the 2016 vintage, Matt Walls comes away convinced it's one of the great sleeper vintages of recent times.
If you’re at a restaurant and you don’t have time to read the wine list from cover to cover, here’s an easy tip to remember.
If they have any 2016 Côte Rôtie, grab one. It should be a safe bet.
Is it the greatest vintage in the last 20 years? No, that’ll be 2015, or perhaps 2010. There are individual wines from these two that fly even higher.
But after tasting nearly 30 examples, what 2016 offers is this: quality, classicism and consistency.
And almost all are ready to drink.
Slow and steady wins the race
After a mild winter, the season got off to a fairly late start, with Bernard Burguad writing in his notes that ‘budbreak occurred quite late compared to the average of recent years’. Spring was mild and quite wet, leading to outbreaks of mildew.
Flowering took place unhindered in mid-May, leading to plenty of fruit; the showers, however, continued. The season wasn’t looking terribly promising until July, when hot, dry weather finally arrived.
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‘Harvest took place under excellent conditions,’ Burgaud notes, ‘yielding grapes with perfect ripeness and sanitary health.’
He didn’t finish picking until mid-October, ‘something we hadn’t done in a long time,’ he remarks.
As long as grapes reach full ripeness, late harvests can be a good sign in Côte-Rôtie; slow and steady ripening often results in delicacy and precision.
Jean-Paul Jamet says: ‘I like this vintage a lot, thanks to its gradual ripening, harvesting between 28 September and 12 October, which conferred a lot of elegance and freshness.’
‘A great classic’
Coming after the bold, concentrated 2015 vintage, the 2016 was clearly less powerful, but was notable for its sense of balance, freshness and its classic proportions.
They’ve aged well – better than expected in fact – thanks to these qualities. At 10 years, they are largely beyond that awkward phase around seven to eight years of age and are ready to open.
Only a handful would benefit from a few more years in bottle. Julien Barge says: ‘I am very fond of this vintage; it is evolving beautifully.’
In fact, I would open the 2016s before the 2015s.
What I particularly appreciate about the 2016s is how frank and easy to read they are, clearly reflecting their origins and house style.
In the words of Jamet, the 2016 vintage ‘reflects the terroir of Côte-Rôtie magnificently. A great classic’.
Burgaud agrees: ‘It is the most sincere expression of Syrah from Côte-Rôtie.’
All the typical Côte-Rôtie markers are there, and are true to their soil type: those from the more southerly Blonde side are perfumed and elegant, those from the Brune side are darker and more intriguing.
The harvest might have been late, but there were clearly no problems achieving ripeness – there’s no greenness or bitterness and the wines are texturally very fine.
None that I tasted were past their best. If kept well, most will age for at another seven to eight years, and the best will endure twice as long.
Sign of the times
That these wines were made 10 years ago was clear from the tasting. Several had (non-dominating) hints of brett, which is less common today.
Use of smaller barrels and new wood was more common too in 2016 than it is today.
Some wines that appeared oaky when tasted from barrel have successfully swallowed it, but a proportion still display marked oak flavour and tannins that can blur some of the more subtle details of the terroir.
Barge is one of many winemakers who have changed their approach since then.
‘In the cellar, the ageing periods used to be longer – typically two years in demi-muids. Today, I prefer shorter ageing in foudres to better preserve the wines’ freshness and expression,’ he says.
He continues: ‘Paradoxically, my work has become more traditional over time. I have gradually come to appreciate the value of the practices handed down by previous generations.
‘My evolution, therefore, stems not only from personal exploration or technical advancements but also from a more conscious return to that heritage. What appears simple in winemaking is often the result of long, careful reflection.’
The summer felt very warm at the time, but compared to this summer it would feel decidedly comfortable. Tasting these wines made me pine for another 2016.
And today, with refined winemaking practices, more organic viticulture and vines that are 10 years older, the resulting wines would be even better.
But that doesn’t detract from what was achieved in 2016 – a great classic indeed.
Côte Rôtie 2016
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Domaine JP Jamet, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

This has real clarity and precision on the palate, with a blood orange acidity and wonderful length and rolling complexity. This is the real thing...
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Stéphane Ogier, La Côte-Blonde, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, 2016

Still darkly coloured. Fresh and lifted, with coffee bean and vanilla; still needs some time to come out of its shell. On the palate however...
2016
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Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Stéphane Ogier, Lancement, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Very attractive nose; cedar, potpourri and incense. Full-bodied style of Côte-Rôtie, rounded and generous though only 13%. Bold and fruity, rich and opulent, plenty of...
2016
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Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux, Maison Rouge, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

Refined, subtle, spicy aromas; cedar, sandalwood, blackberry. Only medium-bodied, not hugely concentrated, but there's good impact and intensity, with some lightly-textured supportive tannins. Harmonious, well...
2016
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Domaine Benjamin et David DuclauxCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Georges Vernay, Maison Rouge, Côte-Rôtie, France 2016

Bay leaf, juniper and olive on the nose, a savoury expression with herbal complexity. Touch of smoke and tomato stalk. Mild acidity, plenty of texture...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine Georges VernayCôte-Rôtie
M. Chapoutier, La Mordorée, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Developed, mature, really quite smoky and complex. There's dried blood and leather among the forest floor aromas and a touch of menthol. Powerful on the...
2016
RhôneFrance
M. ChapoutierCôte-Rôtie
M. Chapoutier, Neve, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Hard to believe that this is the second vintage of a newly planted vineyard – and not even a particularly auspicious lieu-dit – because it...
2016
RhôneFrance
M. ChapoutierCôte-Rôtie
Yves Cuilleron, Bonnivières, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

A relatively light-bodied, fine and precise style of Côte-Rôtie, with a mineral sheen on the finish. Tannins are fine, crystalline, cleansing. Sandy minerality. Very upright...
2016
RhôneFrance
Yves CuilleronCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Barge, Le Combard, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Beautiful nose, open and electric, brimming with pot-pourri, rose petals, cinnamon. Soft, discrete palate, with very fine tannins and white pepper notes. Lovely balance, this...
2016
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Domaine BargeCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Burgaud, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

This delivers exactly what you'd expect from this house: a classic, traditional expression of Côte-Rôtie, with freshness and finesse. It's not trying too hard, the...
2016
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Domaine BurgaudCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Barge, Côte Brune, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Ripe and succulent, full of fruit. Has some cracked-wood and a touch of oak adding complexity. Good acidity and dry, this is quite a linear...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine BargeCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Bonserine, La Garde, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

A really quite ripe, sweet and balsamic aroma with cinnamon and cedar top notes. Fairly generous proportions on the palate, powerful and concentrated. Tangy, chocolate-coated...
2016
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Domaine BonserineCôte-Rôtie
François et Fils, Rozier, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Deep, dark and brooding – very Côte Rozier, it has the muscle and grip despite its 10 years in bottle. Smoky on the nose, there's...
2016
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François et FilsCôte-Rôtie
Martin Clerc, Coteaux de Tupin, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

Lifted, fresh, detailed and delightful nose. Rose petals and cedar, very Côte Blonde in style. No excess oak or excess ripeness; a very fine, very...
2016
RhôneFrance
Martin ClercCôte-Rôtie
Pierre Gaillard, Rose Pourpre, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, 2016

Darker in fruit than his Esprit de Blonde, this has fresh blackberry amongst the raspberry fruits. Again, the oaky clove note is quite present, but...
2016
RhôneFrance
Pierre GaillardCôte-Rôtie
Lionel Faury, Emporium, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Turned earth and forest floor hints on the nose. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, with intense but super-fine tannins and a mineral seam with...
2016
RhôneFrance
Lionel FauryCôte-Rôtie
Aurélien Chatagnier, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Wild woody herbs, animal pelts, dried blood – really quite 'sauvage'. Blackcurrant on the palate. Smoothly tannic, still with a touch of grip, and some...
2016
RhôneFrance
Aurélien ChatagnierCôte-Rôtie
Yves Cuilleron, Bourasseau, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Lovely nose; blackberry and potpourri. Relatively generous for a 2016, clearly 'brune' side due to its velvety, dense tannins. More concentrated than some in 2016,...
2016
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Yves CuilleronCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Chambeyron, L'Angeline, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

Dark chocolate, graphite, Turkish delight and liquorice on the nose, with deep, concentrated black fruits on the palate. It's a ripe and potent expression, with...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine ChambeyronCôte-Rôtie
J Denuzière, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Fresh, lifted, attractive; mature now, with some forest floor notes and menthol coming through; also star anise and sandalwood. Full-bodied, rounded, generous palate; really quite...
2016
RhôneFrance
J DenuzièreCôte-Rôtie
Vignobles Chirat, La Rose Brune, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, 2016

Smoky, gamey, unmistakably Northern Rhône Syrah. The tannins are quite fibrous, they have a dense, thick texture. Dried blood and iron on the nose, very...
2016
RhôneFrance
Vignobles ChiratCôte-Rôtie
Christophe Pichon, La Comtesse en Côte Blonde, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

This is ready to drink now, it's mature, with fruit to the fore. Good acidity helps to balance the juicy berries. Harmonious now, very much...
2016
RhôneFrance
Christophe PichonCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux, La Germine, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

Red-fruited nose, with some spicy oak present lending some complexity. A touch light, not hugely concentrated or complex, but it's very well balanced and satisfying....
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine Benjamin et David DuclauxCôte-Rôtie
Lionel Faury, Revinescence, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Quite closed on the nose, very introverted at the time of tasting. Raspberry, juniper and blueberry can be coaxed out with air. Marked acidity. Certainly...
2016
RhôneFrance
Lionel FauryCôte-Rôtie
Vidal-Fleury, La Chatillonne, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

A little closed currently, with some strawberry fudge notes. Then broad, full-bodied, and generous on the palate. The oak isn't as dominating as some vintages...
2016
RhôneFrance
Vidal-FleuryCôte-Rôtie
Domaine JP Jamet, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

This has real clarity and precision on the palate, with a blood orange acidity and wonderful length and rolling complexity. This is the real thing...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine JP JametCôte-Rôtie
Stéphane Ogier, La Côte-Blonde, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, 2016

Still darkly coloured. Fresh and lifted, with coffee bean and vanilla; still needs some time to come out of its shell. On the palate however...
2016
RhôneFrance
Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Stéphane Ogier, Lancement, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Very attractive nose; cedar, potpourri and incense. Full-bodied style of Côte-Rôtie, rounded and generous though only 13%. Bold and fruity, rich and opulent, plenty of...
2016
RhôneFrance
Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux, Maison Rouge, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

Refined, subtle, spicy aromas; cedar, sandalwood, blackberry. Only medium-bodied, not hugely concentrated, but there's good impact and intensity, with some lightly-textured supportive tannins. Harmonious, well...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine Benjamin et David DuclauxCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Georges Vernay, Maison Rouge, Côte-Rôtie, France 2016

Bay leaf, juniper and olive on the nose, a savoury expression with herbal complexity. Touch of smoke and tomato stalk. Mild acidity, plenty of texture...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine Georges VernayCôte-Rôtie
M. Chapoutier, La Mordorée, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Developed, mature, really quite smoky and complex. There's dried blood and leather among the forest floor aromas and a touch of menthol. Powerful on the...
2016
RhôneFrance
M. ChapoutierCôte-Rôtie
M. Chapoutier, Neve, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Hard to believe that this is the second vintage of a newly planted vineyard – and not even a particularly auspicious lieu-dit – because it...
2016
RhôneFrance
M. ChapoutierCôte-Rôtie
Yves Cuilleron, Bonnivières, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

A relatively light-bodied, fine and precise style of Côte-Rôtie, with a mineral sheen on the finish. Tannins are fine, crystalline, cleansing. Sandy minerality. Very upright...
2016
RhôneFrance
Yves CuilleronCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Barge, Le Combard, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Beautiful nose, open and electric, brimming with pot-pourri, rose petals, cinnamon. Soft, discrete palate, with very fine tannins and white pepper notes. Lovely balance, this...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine BargeCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Burgaud, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

This delivers exactly what you'd expect from this house: a classic, traditional expression of Côte-Rôtie, with freshness and finesse. It's not trying too hard, the...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine BurgaudCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Barge, Côte Brune, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Ripe and succulent, full of fruit. Has some cracked-wood and a touch of oak adding complexity. Good acidity and dry, this is quite a linear...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine BargeCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Bonserine, La Garde, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

A really quite ripe, sweet and balsamic aroma with cinnamon and cedar top notes. Fairly generous proportions on the palate, powerful and concentrated. Tangy, chocolate-coated...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine BonserineCôte-Rôtie
François et Fils, Rozier, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Deep, dark and brooding – very Côte Rozier, it has the muscle and grip despite its 10 years in bottle. Smoky on the nose, there's...
2016
RhôneFrance
François et FilsCôte-Rôtie
Martin Clerc, Coteaux de Tupin, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

Lifted, fresh, detailed and delightful nose. Rose petals and cedar, very Côte Blonde in style. No excess oak or excess ripeness; a very fine, very...
2016
RhôneFrance
Martin ClercCôte-Rôtie
Pierre Gaillard, Rose Pourpre, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, 2016

Darker in fruit than his Esprit de Blonde, this has fresh blackberry amongst the raspberry fruits. Again, the oaky clove note is quite present, but...
2016
RhôneFrance
Pierre GaillardCôte-Rôtie
Lionel Faury, Emporium, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Turned earth and forest floor hints on the nose. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, with intense but super-fine tannins and a mineral seam with...
2016
RhôneFrance
Lionel FauryCôte-Rôtie
Aurélien Chatagnier, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Wild woody herbs, animal pelts, dried blood – really quite 'sauvage'. Blackcurrant on the palate. Smoothly tannic, still with a touch of grip, and some...
2016
RhôneFrance
Aurélien ChatagnierCôte-Rôtie
Yves Cuilleron, Bourasseau, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Lovely nose; blackberry and potpourri. Relatively generous for a 2016, clearly 'brune' side due to its velvety, dense tannins. More concentrated than some in 2016,...
2016
RhôneFrance
Yves CuilleronCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Chambeyron, L'Angeline, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

Dark chocolate, graphite, Turkish delight and liquorice on the nose, with deep, concentrated black fruits on the palate. It's a ripe and potent expression, with...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine ChambeyronCôte-Rôtie
J Denuzière, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Fresh, lifted, attractive; mature now, with some forest floor notes and menthol coming through; also star anise and sandalwood. Full-bodied, rounded, generous palate; really quite...
2016
RhôneFrance
J DenuzièreCôte-Rôtie
Vignobles Chirat, La Rose Brune, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, 2016

Smoky, gamey, unmistakably Northern Rhône Syrah. The tannins are quite fibrous, they have a dense, thick texture. Dried blood and iron on the nose, very...
2016
RhôneFrance
Vignobles ChiratCôte-Rôtie
Christophe Pichon, La Comtesse en Côte Blonde, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

This is ready to drink now, it's mature, with fruit to the fore. Good acidity helps to balance the juicy berries. Harmonious now, very much...
2016
RhôneFrance
Christophe PichonCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux, La Germine, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

Red-fruited nose, with some spicy oak present lending some complexity. A touch light, not hugely concentrated or complex, but it's very well balanced and satisfying....
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine Benjamin et David DuclauxCôte-Rôtie
Lionel Faury, Revinescence, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2016

Quite closed on the nose, very introverted at the time of tasting. Raspberry, juniper and blueberry can be coaxed out with air. Marked acidity. Certainly...
2016
RhôneFrance
Lionel FauryCôte-Rôtie
Vidal-Fleury, La Chatillonne, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France 2016

A little closed currently, with some strawberry fudge notes. Then broad, full-bodied, and generous on the palate. The oak isn't as dominating as some vintages...
2016
RhôneFrance
Vidal-FleuryCôte-Rôtie

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.