The wines of the historic region of Empordà are bubbling with life and Mediterranean character once again thanks to young winemakers in northern Catalonia, as Sue Style discovers. Read her Empordà travel guide here.
My perfect day in Empordà
Start the day at Terra Remota (www.terraremota.com), a huge, new, organic winery between Capmany and Sant Climent Sescebes created by French couple Marc and Emma Bournazeau. For another day, note their picnic lunch option (€38 for two), before continuing east on the country road to Llançà. Then head south along the winding coast road to just short of Port de la Selva and take a right up to La Selva de Mar. Press on through the village and up a cement track into a wild valley criss-crossed with hiking trails – Sant Pere de Rodes is just over the top. At the end of the track is the lovely Mas Estela (www.masestela.com) where Nuria and Diego Soto-Dalmau and son Didac, established here since 1989, will show you their range of organic and biodynamic wines.
Return to the coast road and make your way across the rugged Cap de Creus peninsula to the whitewashed fishing village of Cadaqués, made famous by Salvador Dalí, who settled in nnext-door Port Lligat. Enjoy a creative tapas lunch at Compartir*.
Take a 15-minute stroll to Port Lligat to the Dalí House-Museum*. Return to Cadaqués and drive back inland to Castelló d’Empúries and across the Aïguamolls wetlands to L’Escala to check in at Hostal d’Empuriés*. Timefor an evening swim in the bay or spa.
Either dine in-house in Restaurant La Teresita or go round to El Roser 2* in L’Escala – a 15-minute walk or a five-minute drive. In summer you can take the Carrilet tourist train, which stops by the entrance to the Empúries Museum.
Tastings at Terra Remota and Mas Estela and visit to the Dalí Museum must be pre-booked. For details of places marked with an asterisk (*), see the next page