Anson: Exclusive Macán vertical – Rothschild & Vega Sicilia’s joint project

This first vintage of Macán is now 11 years old, and tasting sweet, smoky, with touches of chipotle sauce alongside clear dark cherry fruit aromatics. The slightly dusty finish is the only thing that betrays the level of the new oak that was used at the time (100% for the first few years, and partly malolactic fermentation in barrel, to further pump up the gourmet richness). It is now integrated and soft, something that wasn't quite true even two years ago, and has retained its plump feel while showing lift and definition on the finish. No question that it is ready to enjoy already, but no need to rush. When you return to it after half an hour in the glass, the smoky tar and coffee ben edge is more evident, and it is clear that more recent vintages have a slightly more hands off approach but this is delicious and has aged extremely well.

2010 was a very hot vintage in Rioja with small yields of around 25hl/ha. This gives it a concentration that seems at this distance more overdone than the 2009, and the smoked vanilla notes from the oak are a little too evident even at ten years on, giving a drying edge to the finish. But along the way we are treated to beautiful depth of damson and cherry fruits, dark spice and dried herb complexity. In another year or two it will soften as the 2009 has done, but oak integration just not yet fully there. 100% new oak.

Wonderfully inky depths to the colour and also the palate, with a silky texture and underlying floral notes that sit alongside the power to add an injection of freshness and balance. This has the generosity of Rioja, the sexy smoky edge to the black cherry fruit that adds approachability to the best wines, but also displays a real sense of restraint and subtle power. Still young, this again has high spice and concentrated flavours that will soften over the next few years. This gets even better after half an hour in the glass, strongly recommend this wine if you want to understand the potential of Macán. 80% new oak, plus barrels that had been less highly toasted.

Quite different in feel, this was a warm but not excessive vintage in Rioja, and the wines did not achieve the same ripeness as in 2011, 2010 and 2009. Displaying a striking balsamic edging to the nose, alongside grilled almond that gives the oak barrel signpost, but not overpoweringly so. On the palate comes caramelised toffee and black chocolate, against spiced cinnamon notes. Not as velvety smooth as the 2011, but this has elegance and a juiciness to the finish which is extremely enjoyable. Tannins are clear, slightly rugged through the mid palate, suggesting again that these are wines that benefit from a long ageing. You can drink this now, but it will improve over the next three to four years, although may not reach the same levels of pleasure as the 2009 and 2011. 20% malo in barrel, 75% new oak.

Complicated vintage with a long vegetative cycle, where they performed a severe green harvest to ensure ripeness. Unlike many in Rioja, they were 75% harvested before the final rains arrived, which gave them a little more wine to play with in the cellar. Caramel comes through strongly on the nose, while on the palate this is silky and well balanced. A less powerful and concentrated vintage, but there are tannins here and the wine has form and shape, and stretches out. A gentler version of Macán but still recognisable, with a black chocolate edge. This is a skilful showing in a difficult year. 20% malo in barrel, 75% new oak,

This is still young, but already displaying gorgeous balance and clearly feels like you have all the necessary parts and can relax while waiting for it to come around. Not the easiest vintage either, mainly because of nerves after the rot issues of 2013, but they have achieved full ripeness and the oak is burnished and smoked, providing just one more layer in what is already a layered and complex wine, and giving it the confidence and sexiness of a young Rioja.

The first vintage to be vinified partly in new winery, and also the first vintage to be made entirely by winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga de Juan, replacing Xavier Ausàs (at Vega Sicilia also). And just to continue with the changes, this was also the point at which they introduced large 4,000l wooden vats for the final three months of ageing, after 12 months in 225l barrels. The idea was to work on the texture while minimising the oak influence. In terms of vintage, this is similar to the 2010, so a rich style of wine, concentrated with white pepper spice, but also juicy and gourmet and extremely enjoyable. This is too young right now, still needs a few years in bottle but it is a great wine with energy and freshness, and brilliantly showcases what Macán is becoming.

Okay, now they're really starting to turn out the hits with regularity. Feels poised and confident, while pointing down the barrel of black chocolate, black cherry, olive paste, liquorice and rosemary spice. I love where this wine is going, but it's going to take its own sweet time to get there. First vintage entirely in the new winery, and the first year where they stopped the malolactic in barrel, concentrating just on the 225l then the 4,000l vats. They also began incorporating the press wine at an earlier stage to give it more time to integrate (only the first press is ever used). Not easy for a new estate to stand out even with the Rothschild and Alvarez names attached, but this is starting to feel like an extremely serious wine to get to know.

Released one year earlier than the Macán, this is full of bright and pure red fruits. I tasted this first at the winery, then again at my house, and it's a brilliant wine for drinking now - already open and welcoming, with a touch of smoked cherry and cinnamon. Cool temperature fermentation to keep the focus on the fruits, with just 5% American oak ensuring the kiss of sweetness. This 2nd wine has been made since the first vintage, helping Macán to stand out from its peers in the region.