Jane Anson: My top 10 fine wines of 2020
Bordeaux greats like Petrus 1998 sit alongside fascinating bottles from around the world as Jane Anson reflects on fine wines that have brought her joy in 2020, in a year with a very different feel.
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Looking again at my top wines of 2019, the list was drawn from bottles tasted at a friend’s birthday party, a private Figeac dinner for 20 people, and a lavish, extremely starry Mouton Rothschild charity event for several hundred people at the Palace of Versailles.
The round-up also included wines tasted at a hotel in St-Emilion with a group from the Napa Valley Reserve in California, a small dinner at New York’s Vaucluse restaurant, a private supper in Pomerol, a local restaurant in Bordeaux, and during a château visit up in the Médoc.
There was just one from an evening at home, and even then it was cooking for a friend who was visiting from Scotland.
This year, seven of the 10 wines were tasted at my house, five of them in front of a computer screen during a Zoom tasting.
Scroll down to see tasting notes for Jane Anson’s top 10 fine wines of 2020
Only one of the three that managed to escape the confines of my front room were tasted under normal conditions.
That was the JJ Prüm Riesling, which was a highlight of a fascinating symposium on ungrafted vines with winemakers from around the world, held back in January 2020 when we all thought this was going to be a year like any other.
The second symposium planned for January 2021 has, I don’t suppose I have to tell you, been postponed for a while…
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Despite all of that, it’s been a huge pleasure looking back over the bottles that have brought the most joy, and that have been part of a year where books, music, food and wine have been the thing that the vast majority of us have found essential to our wellbeing.
I should add to the list that the standout books of the year for me have been Hamnett by Maggie O’Farrell and Hilary Mantel’s the Mirror and the Light, the final part of the Wolf Hall trilogy.
Standout music almost entirely things that remind me of absent friends and family, from The Orielles to Dr Hook, and standout food, fully in the 2020 zeitgeist, might just have to be homemade sourdough bread care of my husband.
So, the wines; in a year where I have been centred so much on Bordeaux, I have probably tasted more brilliant older bottles than ever before, almost entirely thanks to online tastings and virtual launches of my Inside Bordeaux book.
As a result I could easily have filled this list with 10 top Bordeaux.
Wines that nearly made it include Le Pin 1999, Cos d’Estournel 1996, Angélus 1998, Léoville Poyferré 1989, Palmer 2009. All were highlights, but the ones that have made it through to the final list are either unanswerably brilliant – step forward Petrus 1998 – or associated with moments that made the year so much better (Mouton Rothschild 2007).
And in a year where there has been so much loss, one bottle is a nod to Denis Durantou, who passed away in May 2020 just as I was tasting through the 2019 en primeur samples that will now be his final vintage.
The rest on my 2020 top 10 list are from California, Spain, Italy and Germany, plus Chablis and the Rhône back in France. They are all from wine regions that I love and can’t wait to revisit.
Here’s to all of us getting to rediscover the joy of easy travelling in the year ahead, and in the meantime here’s to the wines that allows us to get as close as possible to those simple pleasures while remaining at home.
Jane Anson’s top fine wines of 2020: Tasting notes and scores
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Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 1998

Richly scented like you wouldn't believe; earthy truffle, black olive and rosemary fill the glass and don’t let up right through the palate, providing waves...
1998
BordeauxFrance
PetrusPomerol
Château L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2000

One of the wines that turned me on to the brilliance of Denis Durantou when tasted during a vertical with him and Michel Rolland back...
2000
BordeauxFrance
Château L'Eglise-ClinetPomerol
Inglenook, Rubicon, Napa Valley, Rutherford, California, USA, 2013
Intense, brooding wine with lovely aromatics. There is concentrated dark berry fruit here with an intriguing herbal twist. Soft, ripe fruits on the palate with...
2013
CaliforniaUSA
InglenookNapa Valley
Vega Sicilia, Unico, Ribera del Duero, Mainland Spain, Spain, 2004

Recommended by Jasper Morris MW for a tasting we held together, this just jumped out of the glass. I am giving a drinking date from...
2004
Mainland SpainSpain
Vega SiciliaRibera del Duero
Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm, Auslese Graacher Himmelreich, Mosel, Germany, 2018

Right at the beginning of the year, before the shutdown of any large gatherings, I went to a fascinating symposium of ungrafted grapes that saw...
2018
MoselGermany
Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2007

It was during lockdown that I really started to discover how well the 2007 vintage is tasting right now, and it was to celebrate a...
2007
BordeauxFrance
Château Mouton RothschildPauillac
Château Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 1996

Of all the Bordeaux Zoom tastings that I held this year with 67 Pall Mall wine club, the 1996 Pauillacs was probably the one that...
1996
BordeauxFrance
Château Sociando-MalletHaut-Médoc
Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2016

There have been few opportunities to eat out this year, but one particularly memorable occasion came in October in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, on a freezing evening wrapped...
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine Pierre UsseglioChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Vietti, Brunate, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

Piedmont is one of the regions that I am most excited to return to when we can easily travel again, and I drank a few...
2012
PiedmontItaly
ViettiBarolo
Le Domaine D'Henri, 821 Blanc de Blanc Brut Natur, Chablis, Burgundy, France

This sparkling wine from Michel Laroche in Chablis has been an amazing discovery this year that I strongly recommend getting to know. The name represents...
BurgundyFrance
Le Domaine D'HenriChablis
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
