Luczy: meeting Napa’s Maya Dalla Valle

Multi-generational wineries don’t grow on trees. Human urges to venture out into the world and accomplish something different to that of your parents are common and understandable. Other temptations like selling a successful brand often result in nothing but a name surviving – one that all too often bears little resemblance to its origins.

Gustav and Naoko Dalla Valle purchased their Oakville property in 1982 and established the label in 1986. They achieved success and accolades quickly, entering the market during the explosive popularity of high-end, small-production Napa Valley wineries in the early 1990s.

Scroll down for tasting notes on four vintages of the Dalla Valle estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Maya

They have employed an impressive list of winemakers and consultants, such as Heidi Barrett, Mia Klein, Tony Soter, Philippe Melka, Michel Rolland and Andy Erickson. Gustav passed away in 1995, around the time they released their highly acclaimed 1992 vintage. After some initial uncertainty of the path forward, Naoko took the reins and built Dalla Valle into one of the most sought-after labels in California.

Fast-forward to January 2021, and they are aiming to keep their legacy a family affair. Maya, the only child of Gustav and Naoko – and namesake of their most lauded wine – has assumed the role of winemaker and general manager. Maya now makes Maya. She jokes: ‘It’s like the movie Inception – how many layers of Maya can there be?’

Spreading her wings

As is often the case, it took Maya leaving the life she came from to truly appreciate the beauty of it. ‘When I was growing up, I was surrounded by so much of a good thing that I thought “this can’t be it for me, right?” As a kid, I had free rein to run around the vineyard and learn about farming, but I also wanted to go out see things, travel, and get outside of the Napa Valley bubble.

‘Once I got older, I started to think long-term and about how attached to this place I’d become. My dad had passed away by that point and, as an only child, I thought about what would happen if I didn’t show interest, or at least try to be involved in wine. It took removing myself to realise how much I love it all.’

Before returning home, Maya racked up considerable experience around the globe. She graduated with a degree in viticulture and winemaking from Cornell University and later a master’s degree in vineyard management from Bordeaux Sciences Agro University. After cross-continental stints at Château Latour, Petrus, Ornellaia and Bodega Rolland, she returned to Napa Valley and began managing Dalla Valle.

‘I spent the first year back observing the intricacies of what we do, and I progressively had more input and suggestions. Since the 2017 vintage, I’ve been involved in all aspects – as has my mom. We’re both here every day, walk the vineyard together and are at the sorting line together,’ says Maya.

Vineyards: the key ingredients

Dalla Valle feels like a classic, understated winery rather than the flashier examples with which it is often associated. ‘It’s not a showboat wine,’ says Maya, ‘and we’re a winery built for function, not aesthetics. You don’t need state-of-the-art, fancy equipment to make great wine. It’s about putting time and effort into the ingredients – the vineyards.’

The property sits in the eastern section of Oakville, where wines exude a tighter, more red-fruited character than the round plushness of the western side. ‘The highest elevation is 500 feet (153m), so we’re not a mountainside property. It’s a western exposure, so long hours of sunlight mitigated by cool breezes from San Pablo Bay. A landslide formed our land three million years ago. It continued down through Rudd, Screaming Eagle and Bacchus. We all share similarities, but soil ages and weathers differently.’

The vineyards are split into four zones containing 18 blocks. The majority is Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% is Cabernet Franc with a small amount of Petit Verdot. ‘The Cab Franc for the Maya blend is on the eastern side of the property and faces northeast. The soils are darker, richer and deeper, and don’t have as many volcanic rocks as the western side. They tend to produce wines that are more approachable, fresh, and savoury,’ explains Maya.

Keeping it all in-house

Dalla Valle cuts no corners on farming, employing a full-time vineyard crew that tends to their self-propagated vines. ‘We do all the farming in-house. Our vineyard manager, Edgar Alfaro, lives on the property and has a year-round crew. It allows us to do exactly what we want.

‘We now have a massal selection rather than clones. In the beginning, we used cuttings from Mount Veeder to plant the Maya blocks, although no one thought to write down where they originally came from. They’ve adapted so well to this site that we’ve kept propagating from those original cuttings.

‘Between 1999 and 2007, my mom had to replant the property due to disease pressure. Afterwards, the first thing she did was convert to organic farming which made a big difference. In 2019, we began working biodynamically. My responsibility is to not let replants like that happen again; to guide these vines into becoming old vines.’

In continuity with the shift to using only proprietary ingredients, Dalla Valle is transitioning to natural yeast fermentations. Maya explains: ‘We inoculated with commercial yeast in the past, but now we’re working to make our own cocktail of native yeast, and will eventually use that to replace inoculation altogether.’

After some initial wariness regarding the occasional dice-roll nature of ambient yeasts, the results have shown their upsides. ‘The rate of fermentation was perfect and the aromatics were incredible compared to the inoculated lots,’ she says. ‘If you’re hands-on and pay attention, it’s very simple.’

Continuing the vision

The combination of massal selections, sustainable farming and native ferments is a sort of golden trilogy that ensures a unique profile. The wines can’t help but show a consistent Dalla Valle fingerprint.

Stylistically, the wines are full-bodied and powerful but tethered by understatement and grace. The Cabernet Sauvignon tends toward a red-fruited rigidity, and the Maya a more plush, chocolatey suppleness. Those who prefer firm, structured wines will enjoy them in their youth, but they are built for the cellar. ‘My parents’ view was always that a great wine is one that can age; it’s a testament to the site,’ says Maya.

Maya has a clear understanding of her role in stewarding her family estate into the future. ‘We’ve had great success for the first 30 years for a reason. My mom had a vision and made it happen. It’s not about me coming in now and saying, “This is what people are going to know me for”.’

Dalla Valle is both solidly established yet still in its infancy. The winery came of age during an era of exponential growth and shifting styles in Napa, but has managed to maintain a fairly consistent voice. Maya’s intentions for the future are confident and admirable; under her lead, Dalla Valle looks set to achieve even greater heights.

Dalla Valle: four vintages of the estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Maya

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