Maison Chanzy: producer profile and six wines tasted

In the wider context of the wines of Burgundy, the 55 hectares which comprise the whole of the Bouzeron AOP may not seem particularly significant. When one considers that the key attribute of this small, recently created appellation is the less fashionable Aligoté grape, you might think there is not much here to pique the interest of white Burgundy fans.

Perhaps now is the time to think again.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six Maison Chanzy wines

Bouzeron AOP came into existence in 1997 but this area, situated within the Côte Chalonnaise, has been renowned as an ideal place to cultivate Aligoté since the seventeenth-century.

In this area, relatively high altitudes, combined with varied soils of limestone and blue marl on the higher slopes and clay soils lower down, provide a freshness and crispness to the grapes which augur well given the challenges of warming climate.

Aligoté is sometimes referred to as Burgundy’s ‘other white grape variety’ but plantings are small (around 2,000ha in all of France in 2008). The variety, particularly if over-cropped, can produce very tart, harsh wines which are designed for early-drinking, and are often considerably improved by the addition of crème de cassis and served as a kir.

But, planted in the right area, with reduced yields giving additional concentration, Aligoté is showing some dramatic quality improvements.

Maison Chanzy showed the potential for Aligoté at a recent tasting, with three different slants on the distinctive Bouzeron terroir.

History

Chanzy is a relatively new name, with the origins of the estate dating back to Joseph Sordet at the beginning of the twentieth-century, under the name Domaine Sordet.

Originally 6ha in area, the estate saw several changes of owner before being taken over in 1974 and becoming Domaine Chanzy. By then, the estate comprised 37ha of Aligoté, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir planted in the Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.

Further expansion took place after the sale of Chanzy to the OLMA investment group in 2013, with the estate now totalling 80ha (with 66ha under vine).

Chanzy continues to evolve. The domaine is one of the few Burgundian producers to hold the Haute Valeur Environmental 3 certification, and has strengthened its winemaking and commercial operations.

Max Blondelle, who worked for 14 years at Domaine Chanson in Chablis, is now in charge of winemaking and has brought a greater focus on individual terroir, together with subtle changes to oak-ageing regimes. There is certainly a Chablis ‘feel’ to some of the wines, with very little oak influence and crisp acidity allied to a mineral finish.

Xavier Badinand, Director-General, explained some of the key reasons why the quality of Bouzeron Aligoté has improved so much. ‘In the past, Aligoté was picked first and now it is picked last.’ he says. Despite having south/south-east exposure the Bouzeron vineyards of Chanzy benefit from the altitude and this, combined with low-yields, gives concentrated, plush wines with plenty of ageing capacity. To add cassis to these would be a mistake.

There have also been subtle shifts in oak regime with the previous emphasis on 700 litre vessels now adapted to 500l/300l and 228l barrels. No more than 15% new oak is used.

The wines

Les Trois is a blend of three separate plots primarily matured in steel tank with a small element of oak maturation. An ideal introduction to the Bouzeron AOP. Chanzy also own the only Monopole within the AP – Clos de La Fortune – and bottle this as a ‘straight’ monopole wine, together with a very limited production ‘Vielles Vignes’. In the 2020 vintage, just 854 bottles of the latter were produced and these are only available en-primeur.

In addition to the Bouzeron Aligoté, Chanzy also showed a Rully Blanc Le Cailloux, with plenty of mineral character allied to good ageing potential. They also own vineyards in Mercurey and Maranges, with Pinot Noir from these two APs showing distinct terroir-driven style.

The Maranges was decidedly more earthy with firm tannins but also showing plenty of dark cherry and berry fruit, whilst the Mercurey 1er Cru had poise and elegance, together with refined tannin and a delicacy which emphasises how wine quality is on the up in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Chanzy’s Aligoté bottlings are very fine for this grape variety, and show the potential available given good site selection, later harvesting and reduced yields. They are wines which still retain an unmistakable white Burgundy character whilst providing something quite different to the region’s other white wines.

Andy Howard MW’s Maison Chanzy notes and scores

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