Domaine Jacques Carillon

As with many top Burgundy estates, the Carillon name is long-established, with Jacques Carillon representing the latest generation. 

This important Puligny producer flies somewhat under the radar, which is a pity as Jacques’ wines represent some of the purest expressions of terroir in the Côte de Beaune and, not having the same visibility as producers such as Domaine Leflaive or Etienne Sauzet, pricing here is competitive given the quality on offer.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 Domaine Jacques Carillon wines

Jacques Carillon makes wines which are built to last, with many being shy and reticent in their first few years.

Given time and careful cellaring, they will blossom into fascinating wines which demonstrate all the subtle differences between famous premier cru lieux-dits such as Les Champs Canet, Les Referts and Les Perrières.

The Carillon story

The Carillon family has a long and distinguished history in the Côte de Beaune. Louis Carillon succeeded his father, Robert, in the 1960s and ran the domaine for the next couple of decades. 

Louis had long been fascinated with the family’s viticultural history and traced his ancestors back to Jehan Carillon, a Puligny grape grower, in 1520. As a result, some 2020 wines bear reference to this 500th anniversary on the label.

Louis introduced Jacques into the business in 1980, with younger brother François joining in 1988.

For two decades Jacques focused more on winemaking whilst François managed the vineyard. However, in late 2009, the two brothers decided to go their separate ways and divided the Louis Carillon holdings between themselves.

Jacques and wife Sylvia now own an estate of 5ha, with all wines being produced from their own vineyards.

The winemaking philosophy can be understood from their declarations, such as: ‘Nature chooses its own rhythm; we only assist it. Respect plants, never force them,’ together with ‘the pleasure of wine is a pleasure linked to memory of both the ground and of man.’

Carillon’s villages heartland

Carillon owns 2.71ha of village Puligny-Montrachet with a diverse range of smaller parcels and an average vine age of 40 years, together with a smaller, single-vineyard holding of village Chassagne-Montrachet (0.27ha) which was replanted in 2013. 

This tasting (conducted by Charles Taylor Wines) provided a great opportunity to compare and contrast village-level Puligny and Chassagne from both the same vintage (2020), as well as more mature releases.

The villages releases are classic wines, produced in virtually the same way, with fermentation in barrel before 12 months ageing en-barrique, using 15-20% new wood. Both spend a further six months in stainless steel before bottling. 

Chassagne is a slightly richer, more exotic style, whereas the Puligny is unmistakably Puligny – floral, driven, precise and mineral on the finish.

The premiers crus

These comprise 0.55ha within Les Champs Canet, 0.24ha in Les Referts and 0.61ha of Les Perrières. Average vine age (respectively) is 45, 52 and 42 years, with vinification following virtually the same pattern as for the village wines.

These wines clearly demonstrate the extra concentration and ability to age that would be expected of premier cru, but the wines are distinctively different.

Charles Taylor says Carillon’s Les Champs Canet, with vines located high on the slope on light, stony soil, is always the first premier cru to open out after bottling, but notes it has great ageing potential. 

Les Referts is located rather lower on the slope, with a more rugged character and extremely long aftertaste. Finally, Les Perrières is a wonderful wine showing subtle, restrained elegance now, but with a great future ahead.

Carillon from the cellar

In addition to the horizontal tasting of the 2020s, Charles Taylor also offered the opportunity to taste older vintages: a vertical of Les Perrières (2020, 2016, 2013); village Puligny (2016, 2015), and a 2015 Les Champs Canet.

However, the star of the tasting was a remarkably fresh 2010 Les Perrières. The understated, low-intervention approach of Carillon really shone through here with an aged premier cru which exuded freshness, concentration and vitality.

The young wines are certainly delicious, but if you have a case of Carillon wines, carefully cellar as many as you can – you will not be disappointed.

See tasting notes and scores for 11 Domaine Jacques Carillon wines

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