Assessing the September releases plus final 21 wines tasted including Y d’Yquem
Jane Anson evaluates the success of this year's 'September releases' entering the market via Bordeaux's famous distribution network and tastes a further 21 wines including Château d'Yquem's dry white plus latest offerings from Inglenook, L'Aventure, Bryant Estate, Clos Apalta and Two Hands.
Looking back on a month of international wines on the Place de Bordeaux, the feedback that I have on sales is that they were solid but subdued for all but the most high profile names. Not surprising against the backdrop of increasing global economic uncertainty but there seems no question that this is now a yearly event in the Bordeaux calendar that is not going anywhere.
Scroll down for Jane Anson’s new ‘September releases’ tasting notes and scores
‘We expect the number of overseas wines to almost certainly increase over the next few years,’ Mathieu Chadronnier, CEO of Bordeaux négociant CVBG told me last week when we were tasting through a few more wines, and again in discussing the wider health of the Place de Bordeaux during a seminar with the Wine Scholar Guild.
‘Fine wine is a global category. The same people who are buying the best wines of Bordeaux are also buying the best wines of Napa, Australia, Italy, Chile. The bottles will be found on the same wine lists, and talked about by the same sommeliers and consumers. It makes sense that the distribution channels recognise that fact. Gathering these iconic wines together offers easier access for consumers, and easier access for the trade, that previously could source only through exclusive sales channels’.
It’s been a popular subject. This month alone I have discussed the new arrivals on the Place with the brilliant journalist Elaine Chukkan Brown for a California Wine Institute seminar, and with the equally brilliant author and wine specialist Andrew Caillard MW for Treasury Wine Estates in Australia, specifically for the club members of Wynns Coonawarra Estate, whose John Riddoch bottling has made its debut in Bordeaux this year.
Both conversations reminded me of a pleasing symmetry to selling the great Cabernets through the Place de Bordeaux. We think of Bordeaux as the home of Cabernet Sauvignon, and almost certainly it first stirred into life in the vineyards here in the 1700s as a natural cross of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. But although Cabernet began to be gather popularity in the late 18th century, its real growth occurred in 19th century Bordeaux, and even at the time of the 1855 classification it was just one of a range of red grapes used in the famous Médoc châteaux.
There are clear parallels with Cabernet’s growth in both Australia and California during the same years. It first arrived in Australia in 1832 (making its way to John Riddoch in 1893, as discussed in Caillard’s book Imagining Coonawarra), and almost certainly made its way to California just one year later in 1833, when Bordeaux native Jean Louis Vignes established the area’s first commercial vineyard.
We know that Vignes began planting the Mission grape, but became frustrated with its limitations and so imported European varieties in 1833, sent to him by way of Boston, and although we don’t have a record of exactly which varieties he imported, Cabernet Sauvignon is highly likely to have been among them.
In fact Cabernet may even have arrived in America three decades earlier, as we have records of William Lee, the American consul in Bordeaux in the early 19th century, sending 4,500 vine cuttings of Lafite, Margaux and Haut-Brion to the Pennsylvania Vineyard Company in 1805 in an attempt to ensure its new planting project was a success. The idea of the Cabernet Sauvignon getting a foothold and slowly growing in popularity in all three locations at the same time somehow makes it all the more fitting that the descendants of those early grapes are making their way back to Bordeaux as equal partners.
The final round of tastings here covers the dry white of Château d’Yquem, Y d’Yquem – which itself is a relatively new arrival on the Place de Bordeaux at this time of year, as Yquem drew back (for the second time) from the En Primeur system a few years ago, and is now selling both the sweet and dry wines only when bottled.
One of the more unusual whites of Napa joined it, Inglenook’s Blancaneaux, a blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne which seems to me to be a combination with brilliant potential for the soils and climate of the region. Overall it underlined again, as the previous Inglenooks did earlier in the month, that the Place de Bordeaux is extremely lucky to have access to these wines. Clos Apalta, on the Place since 2012, was similarly successful, as were the extra L’Aventure wines that rounded out the range I had tasted through last month.
I was less convinced by the Two Hands wines from Barossa, which I tasted through a mini horizontal. The clear highlight, and a truly excellent bottle, came with the Ares 100% Shiraz bottling, nuanced and spicy and full of well-juiced muscle. More consistent, and in fact totally thrilling in many instances, were the wines from Bryant Estate in Napa, tasted over the 2016 and 2017 vintages. These are all small batch bottlings at the upper end of the price scale, but are consistently impressive. The vines are located in three different areas around the valley with the focus on Pritchard Hill.
The 2017 vintage of Bryant Estate was 90% picked just before that year’s fires, with any grapes left at that point not used in the wine, and the vineyard has again been threatened this year by the Hennessy Fire. From what I understand, although the vineyard was largely undamaged, Bryant has joined most of the wineries on Pritchard Hill in announcing that it will not be making a 2020 vintage due to fears over smoke taint. All in all providing a sober reminder that these wines are precious in many different ways.
September Releases: The full list
Argentina
Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena Zapata, Uco Valley, Argentina 2017
Cheval des Andes, Mendoza, Argentina 2017
Australia
Cloudburst, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia 2018
Cloudburst, Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Australia 2017
Wynns Coonawarra Estate, John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, Australia 2016 – released at £474 per 6 x 75cl In Bond
Jim Barry, The Armagh Shiraz, Clare Valley, Australia 2016
Dominique Portet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley, Australia 2017
New – tasting notes below
Two Hands, Aphrodite, McLaren Vale, South Australia, 2017
Two Hands, Fields of Joy, Clare Valley, South Australia, 2018
Two Hands, Secret Block Willife Road Moppa Hills, Barossa Valley, South Australia, 2018
Two Hands, Coach House Block Seppeltsfield Road Greenock, Barossa Valley, South Australia, 2018
Two Hands, Waterfall Block Waterfall Gully Road Burnside, Barossa Valley, South Australia, 2018
Two Hands, Ares, Barossa Valley, South Australia, 2017
Chile
Seña, Aconcagua, Chile 2018 – released at £495 per 6 x 75cl In Bond
Errazuriz, Viñedo Chadwick, Puente Alto, Chile 2018 – released at £678 per 3 x 75cl In Bond
Almaviva, Puente Alto, Chile 2018– released at £606 per 6 x 75cl In Bond
New – tasting notes below
Clos Apalta, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2017 – released at £447 per 6 x 75cl In Bond
Clos Apalta, Le Petit Clos, Apalta, 2017
France
L’Odysée, Vin de France, Rhône, France 2017
Château Palmer, Margaux 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2010
Château de Beaucastel, Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Côtes du Rhône 2018
Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 2018
Château de Beaucastel, Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 2018
Château d’Yquem, Bordeaux, France 2018
Château Latour, Bordeaux, France 2009
New – tasting note below
Château d’Yquem, Y d’Yquem, Bordeaux Blanc, 2019
Italy
Orma, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy 2018
Fattoria Petrolo, Galatrona, Valdarno di Sopra, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy 2018
Mazzei, Siepi, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy 2018
Podere Giodo, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy 2016
Caiarossa, Rosso di Toscana, Tuscany, Italy 2017
Bibi Graetz, Testamatta, Tuscany, Italy 2018 – released at £420 per 6 x 50cl In Bond
Bibi Graetz, Colore, Tuscany, Italy 2018 – released at £540 per 3 x 50cl In Bond
Antinori, Solaia, Tuscany, Italy 2017
Masseto, Massetino, Tuscany, Italy, 2018
South Africa
Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, Constantia, South Africa 2017 – released at £39 per 50cl, £234 per 6 x 50cl In Bond
Uruguay – not yet tasted
Bodega Garzón, Balasto, Canelones, Uruguay 2015
Bodega Garzón, Balasto, Canelones, Uruguay 2016
Bodega Garzón, Balasto, Canelones, Uruguay 2017
USA
Opus One, Napa Valley Oakville, USA 2017
Opus One, Overture, Napa Valley Oakville, USA
Inglenook, Rubicon, Napa Valley Rutherford, USA 2017
Inglenook, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Rutherford, USA 2017
Inglenook, 1882, Napa Valley Rutherford, USA 2017
Inglenook, Rubicon, Napa Valley Rutherford, USA 2013
Vérité, La Joie, Sonoma County, California, USA 2016
Vérité, La Muse, Sonoma County, California, USA 2016
Vérité, Le Désir, Sonoma County, California, USA 2016
L’Aventure, Estate Cuvé, Paso Robles Willow Creek, California, USA 2018
Quintessa, Napa Valley Rutherford, USA 2017
Joseph Phelps, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, USA 2017
Joseph Phelps, Insignia, Napa Valley, USA 2017
Dalla Valle Vineyards, Maya, Napa Valley, USA 2017
L’Aventure, Optimus, Paso Robles, USA 2018
L’Aventure, Côte à Côte, Paso Robles, California, USA 2018
Quintessa, Napa Valley Rutherford, USA 2016
Quintessa, Napa Valley Rutherford, USA 2013
Quintessa, Napa Valley Rutherford, USA 2010
New – tasting notes below
L’Aventure, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Paso Robles Willow Creek, California, 2018
L’Aventure , Chloé, Paso Robles Willow Creek, California, 2018
L’Aventure, For Her, Paso Robles Willow Creek, California, 2018
Inglenook, Blancaneaux, Napa Valley Rutherford, California, 2018
Bryant Estate, DB4, Napa Valley St Helena, California, 2016
Bryant Estate, DB4, Napa Valley St Helena, California, 2017
Bryant Estate, BETTINA, Napa Valley St Helena, California, 2016
Bryant Estate, BETTINA, Napa Valley St Helena, California, 2017
Bryant Estate, Bryant Family Vineyard, Napa Valley St Helena, California, 2016
Bryant Estate, Bryant Family Vineyard, Napa Valley St Helena, California, 2017
See Jane Anson’s new ‘September releases’ tasting notes and scores
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Château d'Yquem, Y d'Yquem, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2019
An excellent Y with a round, ripe stone fruit flavour profile, extremely successful with silky-textured nectarine, apricot and mango fruits, given definition and lift by...
2019
Château d'YquemBordeaux Blanc
Inglenook, Blancaneaux, Napa Valley, Rutherford, California, USA, 2018
An unusual blend in Napa, with honeycomb edging against savoury lemon and soft white pepper spicing, opening up to show a richer apricot seam touched...
2018
InglenookNapa Valley
L'Aventure, Chloé, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2018
Highly aromatic, the fragrance spirals right through the palate, full of savoury cut herbs and underbrush. This feels hot and dry and crackling with intensity,...
2018
L'AventurePaso Robles
L'Aventure, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2018
This is extremely successful, succulent and well paced through the palate. It has intense blackcurrant pastille flavours, darkly spiced, not so much of the savoury...
2018
L'AventurePaso Robles
L'Aventure, For Her, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2018
This has a saline, mineral edge to it, with the lovely addition of Graciano, a grape more often found in traditional Rioja. A textured, slate...
2018
L'AventurePaso Robles
Bryant Estate, DB4, Napa Valley, St Helena, California, USA, 2016
Extremely concentrated, this is dripping with pure liquorice root and pencil lead alongside tons of deep cassis. Brightly polished tannins, buff and sleek, this is...
2016
Bryant EstateNapa Valley
Bryant Estate, DB4, Napa Valley, St Helena, California, USA, 2017
This goes long on the liquorice and blueberry notes with more freshness and lyricism than the 2016 in my eyes. A delicious, approachable yet serious...
2017
Bryant EstateNapa Valley
Bryant Estate, BETTINA, Napa Valley, St Helena, California, USA, 2016
The texture is arresting right from the first attack, with slate and mineral highlights that slow down its progression through the palate, giving plenty of...
2016
Bryant EstateNapa Valley
Bryant Estate, BETTINA, Napa Valley, St Helena, California, USA, 2017
Powerful but restrained with a violet-tinged plum colour and plump fruits from the first attack. Full throttle tannins that are fine yet plentiful. This is...
2017
Bryant EstateNapa Valley
Bryant Estate, Bryant Family Vineyard, Napa Valley, St Helena, California, USA, 2016
The 100% Cabernet Sauvignon shows grip and density from the first mouthful, and holds your attention with its straight-backed approach from beginning to end. Concentrated,...
2016
Bryant EstateNapa Valley
Bryant Estate, Bryant Family Vineyard, Napa Valley, St Helena, California, USA, 2017
Packed full of black pepper, rich, intense cassis and blueberry fruits and olive tapenade. This has classic Napa Cab power and confidence with layers of...
2017
Bryant EstateNapa Valley
Clos Apalta, Le Petit Clos, Apalta, Colchagua, Chile, 2017
This is highly distinctive, bright cherry red with dried herbs and black pepper spice that cut through the fruit. A savoury, tomato leaf style of...
2017
Clos ApaltaApalta
Clos Apalta, Apalta, Colchagua, Chile, 2017
Powerful in its concentration and focus, a deep plum colour with the same distinctive sumac and cardamon spice notes as Le Petit Clos, but here...
2017
Clos ApaltaApalta
Two Hands, Aphrodite, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2017
Excellent ripeness to the Cabernet Sauvignon here, with chewy tannins and good grip. The fruits are almost heading towards fig and prune, with a hefty...
2017
Two HandsMcLaren Vale
Two Hands, Fields of Joy, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2018
A very different feel from the Barossa Shiraz in the Two Hands range - here the pepper is more pronounced, as is the floral aspect...
2018
Two HandsClare Valley
Two Hands, Secret Block Willife Road Moppa Hills, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2018
This is a meaty, weighty Shiraz from a select plot in the Moppa Hills. A mixture of chocolate, damson, pomegranate and crème de cassis. This...
2018
Two HandsBarossa Valley
Two Hands, Coach House Block Seppeltsfield Road Greenock, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2018
This starts with an extremely silky attack of cranberry and crushed pomegranate alongside touches of slate that help bring the palate in focus towards the...
2018
Two HandsBarossa Valley
Two Hands, Waterfall Block Waterfall Gully Road Burnside, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2018
The most focused nose of the three, with blackberry and raspberry puree fruit. Again the sweetness of the oak is disrupting at first, but if...
2018
Two HandsBarossa Valley
Two Hands, Ares, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2017
A well-balanced and well-muscled Shiraz with an excellent juicy structure. It's broad and weighty with a feeling of life, and is packed with Barossa Shiraz...
2017
Two HandsBarossa Valley
