Rare Champagne masterclass: DFWE London 2024
Attendees had an exclusive opportunity to taste seven different vintages of Rare Champagne, and the first glimpse of a brand new vintage, at a sell-out masterclass at the London Fine Wine Encounter. Natalie Earl joined cellar master Émilien Boutillat on stage and reports from the event.
The masterclass was Boutillat’s first vertical of Rare Champagne in the UK.
Having joined Piper-Heisieck in 2018 and taken over from Régis Camus as chief winemaker for both Piper-Heidsieck and Rare in 2022, the young cellar master has the depth of knowledge and sharp sense of the past, present and future of the house that usually only comes with decades of experience at the helm of a leading Champagne house.
There have only been 14 vintages of Rare produced, so this was a chance for 80 guests to taste ‘half of the entire world of Rare Champagne,’ said Boutillat.
Tasting notes for all the Rare vintages below
Engaging and energetic, Boutillat seamlessly took guests through each vintage, weaving history, philosophy and winemaking into a masterpiece of storytelling.
Before launching as its own brand in 2018, Rare Champagne was the prestige cuvée of Champagne house Piper-Heidsieck, which was founded in 1785 by Florens Louis Heidsieck.
The first vintage of Rare, launched in 1985, was the 1976.
A dazzling line up
Rare, Rosé, Champagne 2014
Rare, Rosé, Champagne 2012
Rare, Champagne 2013
Rare, Champagne 2012
Rare, Champagne 2008
Rare, Champagne 2006
Rare, Champagne 2002
Rare, Champagne 1988
A rosé more rare
The tasting began with a more recent creation: Rare rosé, from the 2012 and 2014 vintages – another unique opportunity for guests, given there have only been four vintages of Rare rosé released so far.
Rare rosé is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, blended with a percentage of Pinot Noir vinified as red wine to give it the desired colour and character.
It was evident that these are two quite different styles, the 2012 showing delicate florals and the 2014 leaning into darker fruit and power. Boutillat explained: ‘When we created the 2014 vintage, the first three vintages – 2007, 2008 and 2012 – had not been released yet. So we were still fine tuning the style of Rare rosé.’
As a result, the amount of red wine in each blend is considerably different – 8% for the 2012 and 18% for the 2014 – which explains the difference in structure and fruit character. The Pinot Noir grapes for the red wine addition come from the villages of Bouzy and Les Riceys.
‘Now we know where we want to go,’ said Boutillat, ‘so the future of Rare will probably be between these two wines.’
Montagne de Reims: Rare’s beating heart
The sub-region of Montagne de Reims tends to be associated with Pinot Noir. Curiously, Rare in fact sources the majority of its Chardonnay from this northerly outpost, and in particular from the village of Villers-Marmery, which ‘faces east, towards the sunrise, which preserves all the freshness we need for Rare,’ said Boutillat.
‘This is an emblematic terroir which is the core and backbone of each single blend we design,’ he said.
Vintage reveal
The masterclass also played host to the launch of Rare’s newest vintage: 2012.
The 2013 was launched last year, so this was the first time in the history of the house that they decided to ‘switch vintages,’ said Boutillat.
He explained: ‘When we were tasting the 2012 before disgorgement, something happened. We looked at each other and felt an emotion, a uniqueness that reminded us of another vintage: 2002. So we decided to keep it a bit longer on lees.’
The 2002 vintage is widely considered to be an excellent vintage in Champagne, and at Rare it holds particular significance: ‘It is iconic, a masterpiece’ said Boutillat.
‘Before I joined Piper-Heidsieck, it was the best Champagne I’d ever had. And in 2012 we found a connection with 2002.’
With the opportunity to taste both the 2012 and the 2002 vintages during the class, it was clear that there is indeed a light that shines brightly in them both.
Concentrated and creamy, with a satin mousse and a pure, chalky finish.
Evolution
Rare is not a Champagne house in stasis. The need for evolution and adaptation while honouring the history of its creation clearly infiltrates every branch of the brand, from the vineyards, to the winery, to the people.
‘We have to adapt, this is the reality, we need to change the way we make wine and manage our vineyards,’ said Boutillat, who was one of the driving forces behind the brand attaining B Corp certification in 2022.
Boutillat’s approach is dynamic and open and ‘there’s no dogma here,’ he said. And it will ensure Rare’s place in the great Champagnes of the future.
An exquisite vertical of Rare Champagne:
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