‘The idea of Rare, as its name says, is to produce limited quantities in singular and exceptional vintages,’ said Émilien Boutillat, chief winemaker for both Rare and Piper-Heidsieck Champagnes, on the occasion of the London launch of Rare 2013.
‘It is rare because of the quantity, of the frequency and the singularity of each vintage that we produce.’ The 2013 vintage is only the 13th release of Rare since the debut of this prestige cuvée from the 1976 vintage in 1985.
Islands of Chardonnay
Boutillat pointed out one particularity that makes Rare stand out: its large proportion – 70% – of Chardonnay sourced from the Montagne de Reims, which is more famed for its Pinot Noir. Boutillat called the villages of Villers-Marmery, Vaudemange and Verzy ‘islands of Chardonnay in the kingdom of Pinot Noir. This is unique and sets Rare apart.’ Chardonnay from Villers-Marmery and Vaudemange makes up more than half the blend.
Chardonnay was also sourced from Ambonnay, Avize, Chouilly, Oger and Montgueux. Boutillat said they choose Ambonnay because ‘we are looking for the elegance of Chardonnay in the Montagne de Reims,’ and Montgueux to ‘highlight tropical notions.’ The 30% Pinot Noir portion of the blend was sourced from Verzy, Verzenay, Ambonnay, Bouzy and Tauxières – all in the Montagne de Reims.
‘Dazzling’
As with every vintage of Rare, the 2013 was given a particular attribute expressing the character of the wine. The term chosen for 2013 is ‘dazzling’. Boutillat said that the idea was drawn from the late harvest of that cool but long growing season which afforded the grapes full ripeness but also vivid freshness.
In 2013 the harvest did not begin until late September and lasted into October – something that has not happened since and may not happen again. ‘Dazzling, like an October sunrise in cool weather in that unique light with the leaves turning colour. It is the feeling of a cool autumn morning,’ said Boutillat.
Harmony and balance
The wine has both the freshness and the verticality of the cool 2013 vintage. The wine went through full malolactic fermentation and then spent eight years on lees before being disgorged in December 2022 with a dosage of 9g/L. Despite this generous dosage, the wine comes across as extra brut, such is the vividness, freshness and drive.
‘I care about balance and harmony on the palate,’ said Boutillat, explaining that both blending trials and dosage trials are blind to allow the tasting committee to make their assessments without prejudice. Boutillat notes, however, that further disgorgements of Rare may have different dosage levels. Magnums of Rare 2013 are to be released at a much later date and no rosé was made in this vintage.
Anne Krebiehl MW’s tasting note and score for Champagne Rare 2013
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