South African Chardonnay: Panel tasting results

South Africa Chardonnay — (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Jason Millar, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 128 wines, with 1 Exceptional, 10 Outstanding and 60 Highly recommended

South African Chardonnay: Panel tasting scores

128 wines tasted

Exceptional 1

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 60

Recommended 47

Commended 10

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release South African Chardonnay wines, containing a minimum of 85% Chardonnay, at any price level

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the South African Chardonnay panel tasting

As the scores and notes clearly demonstrate, this was a superb tasting of South Africa’s finest Chardonnays.

It showed beyond doubt that contemporary South Africa is home to some of the southern hemisphere’s most confident and assured examples of this variety – and perhaps the world’s.

Although Chenin Blanc is the Cape’s signature white variety, Chardonnay, planted in the right place and vinified sensitively, can be sensational.

Cool-climate regions – Elgin, Greyton, Hemel-en-Aarde and the brisker parts of Stellenbosch – triumphed decisively. Andy Howard MW found the wines ‘generally very good quality, stylish and consistent’.

Roger Jones felt that they stood toe-to-toe with Hawke’s Bay, Margaret River and all but the finest Burgundy. The best offered an irresistible combination of concentration, clarity and freshness.

Less is more

It was notable that so many of the tasting’s finest wines were made with minimal-intervention viticulture, with many following the principles of regenerative and sustainable farming, utilising unhurried wild yeast ferments and deploying new oak with tasteful restraint.

As a fan of richer Chardonnay, I found it encouraging to see many producers favouring an oak-inflected style that offers texture, flavour, depth and ageability. In terms of pricing, there was little of interest under £15; Cape Chenin Blanc offers much better value and character at that level.

Most of our top wines were around or above £50, putting them into justifiable competition with white Burgundy. Yet for the best relative value, the panel agreed that the £20-£30 range was particularly impressive.

This was where many of our strongest Highly Recommendeds (‘silver medal’ equivalent, 90-94 points) were awarded.

With more than half the wines in the tasting scoring 90pts or more, there’s no doubt South Africa is making world-class Chardonnay.

Lovers of the grape ought to be buying, cellaring and enjoying them for years to come.

See all recommendations from the tasting

What to eat with South African Chardonnay, by Fiona Beckett

Sometimes I wonder if people who dismiss Chardonnay have ever actually drunk it with a meal. It goes with so many things, from roast chicken to cheddar cheese, that it’s hard not to regard it as the ultimate food wine.

Given the quality, price and maturity of the South African wines in this tasting, though, it’s a great excuse to up your game in the kitchen and cook something that will show it off in all its glory.

Grilled lobster would be top of my list, with langoustines and scallops not far behind. A crab tart would be wonderful; a whole baked salmon with hollandaise sublime. In fact, any kind of eggy or creamy sauce would set it off to perfection, especially if imbued with a bit of Chardonnay-friendly tarragon.

Veg-wise, think of mushrooms, roasted cauliflower and fennel – any or all of them enhanced by pastry, butter or parmesan. And grilled corn is also a winner. You can absolutely drink high-class South African Chardonnay with a braii, especially a seafood-focused braii.

South African Chardonnay panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. Formerly a long-serving retail wine buyer, he now runs his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a consultant and wine writer with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He’s also a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

Explore More

Jason Millar is a freelance writer and consultant specialising in the wines of Italy and South Africa. He has worked in various roles in the UK wine trade since 2011, most recently as company director at London merchant Theatre of Wine from 2018 to 2023. In 2016 he won three scholarships on his way to attaining the WSET Level 4 Diploma, including The Vintners' Scholarship for the top mark of all graduates worldwide.

South African Chardonnay: Panel tasting scores

128 wines tasted

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the South African Chardonnay panel tasting

Less is more

See all recommendations from the tasting

What to eat with South African Chardonnay, by Fiona Beckett

South African Chardonnay panel tasting results

The judges

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