St-Joseph 2023: Report and top-scoring wines

Attractive pear and honeysuckle aromas. Relatively medium-bodied this year, not as rich as some vintages can be, but good acidity and the alcohol is rich but balanced. Good sense of freshness and minerality. Vivacious, delicious and long. A beautifully balanced vintage from the lieu-dit Les Oliviers in Mauves, which is an excellent terroir for whites.

Touch of flinty reduction on the nose. Not full-bodied – it moves fast in the mouth – but has real impact, intensity and good acidity. Confit citrus peels, honeysuckle, so sapid and delicious. More positive reduction than in previous vintages, but it works well and will extend its life span even longer than a typical year. Such a brilliant wine.

Aromas of honey and honeysuckle. This is full-bodied, rich and powerful, showing roasted pineapple, crème pâtissière, with noble bitter notes; this is so impressive. Marzipan notes on the long finish. Hand-harvested, old-vine Marsanne grown on granite. Fermented in 228L oak barriques then left on fine lees until the malolactic is finished. 4,000 bottles made.

A big, generous, billowing style of St-Joseph, really rich and ripe, but somehow still fresh and detailed. It lands softly, despite its size. From three parcels on granite and loess soils in St-Jean-de-Muzols, fermented then aged for a year in barriques on fine lees. Really opulent, but so delicious.

Quince, pear and subtle hazelnut notes. Lovely richness on the palate, which is powerful and shows noble bitter notes. Full but fresh, good acidity, then a mineral finish.