Top Meursault and Montrachet 2020 en primeur wines
Charles Curtis MW highlights where to look for the best 2020 wines from Meursault and among the Montrachets.
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Among the whites, the best of the Meursault Perrières are breathtaking, and there are marvellous wines from Meursault Gouttes d’Or and Bouchères as well.
In Puligny-Montrachet, look for the Premiers Crus La Truffière, Caillerets, Folatières and Champ Gain, while in Chassagne, the Les Chaumées and La Grand Montagne were particularly good.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of Charles’ top-scoring Meursault and Montrachet 2020 wines
This will give you a good selection from the top villages of the Côte de Beaune.
The good news is that many of these will be approachable young, yet the best of the reds will last 30 years or more and the whites at least 20 years.
See the score table listing Charles’ top Côte de Beaune 2020 wines all scoring 95 points or above
See all 650 Burgundy 2020 tasting notes and scores
In Meursault, Brian Seve of Domaine de Montille seemed very content with results: ‘The profiles of the 2018s and 2020s have some similarities, but the level of acidity in 2020 is more evident,’ says Seve. ‘Because of the concentration, they taste as though there is higher acidity, even if pH is largely the same, and for the red wines this appearance of freshness keeps the fruit profile more in the red than black. Ultimately, all the alcohol levels are around 13%. My Beaune Premier Cru Les Sizies is 12.8% for example; nothing is chaptalised and nothing is acidified.’
Paul Delorme, cellarmaster at Domaine Roulot, seemed equally pleased: ‘We picked from the 20th of August through to the 29th, beginning with [regional-level] Grandes Coutures on the Puligny side and finishing on the Volnay side. Everything was about 13% alcohol, with a pH of around 3.2 (3.22 for the Bourgogne Blanc). 2020 is the vintage that rediscovers the energy of the 2017s,’ he concludes.
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Côte de Beaune | Côte de Nuits | Mâconnais | Côte Chalonnaise
Morey-St-Denis | Gevrey-Chambertin | Chambolle-Musigny | Pommard and Volnay | Vosne-Romanée
Benoît Riffault of Domaine Etienne Sauzet in Puligny concurs: ‘The 2020s are refreshing but not brisk. We started picking on the 22nd of August. The early-ripening sites with thin, stony soils retain lots of freshness, while those with deeper clay soils are more compact and dense.’
Jean-Marc Blain of Domaine Blain-Gagnard expanded this thought, noting that acidity levels improve as the soil recovers from its excess potassium of the 1960s and 70s.
Even in 2020, the pH levels were between 3.2-3.3, with moderate alcohol levels.
His niece, Caroline Lestimé of Jean-Noël Gagnard, agrees, taking as an example her Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru Les Chaumées: ‘The yield was 21 hl/ha; normally it is 58 hl/ha,’ she reveals. Across the board we are down at least 30-40% due to drought, millerandage and frost, but the results are really concentrated and very fine.’
See tasting notes and scores for Charles Curtis MW’s top-scoring Meursault and Montrachet 2020 wines:
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Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

Abundant aromas of ripe apple fruit, with a full complement of butter and spice underpinned with a pronounced minerality, but there is no excess here....
2020
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Domaine des Comtes LafonMontrachet Grand Cru
Bouchard Père & Fils, Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

This wine has everything. Bouchard farms 0.89ha of well-positioned vines in Montrachet – south of Ramonet on the Puligny side (and north of the first...
2020
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Bouchard Père & FilsMontrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

The aromas begin with ripe apple and pear, then there are shades of citrus and tropical fruit that range from passionfruit to pomelo. On the...
2020
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Domaine Fontaine-GagnardMontrachet Grand Cru
Henri Boillot, Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

Extraordinary precision and concentration. The aromas begin with ripe pear, apple, acacia flower and chamomile, and with time expand to include hazelnut, struck flint and...
2020
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Henri BoillotMontrachet Grand Cru
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

This beautifully delineated wine has a lush nose of peach pit, apricot, ripe apple and and touches of quince. Still, all of this ripe yellow...
2020
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Pierre-Yves Colin-MoreyChevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, 1er Cru Genevrières, Burgundy, France, 2020

Almost ethereal, impressively complex and long, showing a real presence in the spicy aromas and ripe orchard fruit. In the end, it is the elegance...
2020
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Domaine des Comtes LafonMeursault
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, France, 2020

Profuse aromas of ripe apple, marzipan, acacia flowers and smoke, with a suggestion of butter and cream. The texture on the palate is dense, long...
2020
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Domaine des Comtes LafonMeursault
Domaine Michel Niellon, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

This is always among my favourite Chevaliers, with its super-concentrated style. The aromas tend more toward fresh apricot than apple, with ample shading of saline...
2020
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Domaine Michel NiellonChevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru La Romanée, Burgundy, France, 2020

A monumental wine. Great concentration and purity, featuring aromas of lemon peel, pear and gooseberry, touched with mineral and smoke. There is a perfect...
2020
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Domaine Paul PillotChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Roulot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, France, 2020

This is assuredly the grand cru of Meursault in all but name. The wine is spicy and rich, with a complex nose that combines lemon...
2020
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Domaine RoulotMeursault
Etienne Sauzet, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

There is an elemental freshness here that is truly lovely, with ripe William pear and floral notes, plus a suggestion of citrus and silk; there...
2020
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Etienne SauzetBâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Etienne Sauzet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

Bienvenues is poorly understood: this is great wine. It lacks the power of Bâtard, the structure of Chevalier (and the 'everything' of Montrachet), yet it...
2020
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Etienne SauzetBienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

Complex nose, with classic Bâtard aromas such as ripe apple, butter, spice and cream, but there is also a slightly resinous quality that adds complexity....
2020
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Domaine Fontaine-GagnardBâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Henri Boillot, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

This is produced from a 0.32ha parcel that lies right on the border between Puligny and Chassagne. The wine also seems to be a balance...
2020
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Henri BoillotBâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

An exquisite wine, the nose is almost delicate, with ripe apple and floral notes, and the texture of the wine is astonishingly crisp and fine....
2020
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Jean-Noël GagnardBâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

Exquisite, with notes of fresh flowers, ripe pear, spice and butter. The texture is rich but not overly so, and there is plenty of crisp...
2020
BurgundyFrance
Pierre-Yves Colin-MoreyBâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Benjamin Leroux, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

Wonderful, with a rich apple fruit, beeswax, butter and hazelnut notes. There is admirable freshness on the palate, and the wine lingers elegantly without heaviness....
2020
BurgundyFrance
Benjamin LerouxBâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Joseph Faiveley, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

The pebbles of Bienvenues leaven the soil somewhat, introducing elements of minerality and a bit more freshness into the wine. It is certainly still a...
2020
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Domaine Joseph FaiveleyBienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Clos de la Truffière Les Chaumées, Burgundy, France, 2020

Complex nose of lime peel, green apple, mineral and flint. The texture is intensely fresh, but there is a marvellous old-vine richness as well that...
2020
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Domaine Michel NiellonChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru La Grande Montagne, Burgundy, France, 2020

Both sections of Grande Montagne are among the highest elevation premier crus in Chassagne. The altitude means the wines are almost more Puligny in style,...
2020
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Domaine Paul PillotChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes, Burgundy, France, 2020

With its ripe apple citrus fruit and hints of beeswax, marzipan and smoke, this is an elegant wine with great finesse. However, it is not...
2020
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Domaine Paul PillotChassagne-Montrachet
Bouchard Père & Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

This is truly a classic of the house, which owns a total of 2.3ha spread over all four terraces of Chevalier. Each parcel is vinified...
2020
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Bouchard Père & FilsChevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Etienne Sauzet, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

This Chevalier-Montrachet is an impressive monument of a wine, with aromas that range from lemon peel to passionfruit. The texture is creamy, round and dense,...
2020
BurgundyFrance
Etienne SauzetChevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Blain-Gagnard, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

This is marvellous. Blain crushes the grapes lightly and avoids sulphur until after malo. His way of working produces this subtle, elegant wine with notes...
2020
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Domaine Blain-GagnardCriots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2020

The gentle handling and reductive ageing of the wines here gives an easy-to-love result, with clean aromas of ripe pear, butter and spice, plus a...
2020
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Domaine Fontaine-GagnardCriots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Roulot, Meursault, 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères, Burgundy, France, 2020

As with neighbouring Gouttes d'Or, the Clos de Bouchères - a 1.37ha monopole acquired in 2011 - is a precocious, early-ripening site, picked earlier in...
2020
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Domaine RoulotMeursault
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, France, 2020

The wine is super-rich and concentrated, with pronounced aromas that range from lemon peel to passionfruit. It is an impressively powerful wine, but there is...
2020
BurgundyFrance
Pierre-Yves Colin-MoreyMeursault
Henri Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère, Burgundy, France, 2020

The primacy of the citrus and green apple fruit is dramatic, but there is depth and nuance here as well, not to mention fresh acidity...
2020
BurgundyFrance
Henri BoillotPuligny-Montrachet
Etienne Sauzet, En La Richarde, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Folatières, Burgundy, France, 2020

This has a piercing purity of citrus peel and passionfruit, with a lovely saline and mineral edge on the attack, followed by impressive richness but...
2020
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Etienne SauzetPuligny-Montrachet