Understanding Prosecco Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore

Italy is the world’s leading producer of sparkling wine by volume, a feat which has largely been achieved due to Prosecco’s popularity.

The vast Prosecco DOC accounts for approximately 80% of all production. It produces approximately 485 million bottles every year from over 23,000 hectares which stretch across nine provinces in Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. These are the wines found on the shelves of every supermarket and wine merchant: perfectly drinkable in many different scenarios, very affordable, but not the best the region has to offer.

Above the Prosecco DOC in the quality stakes lie the two DOCGs of Prosecco Asolo and Prosecco Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore, divided by the Piave river. While the focus for the vast majority of consumers is understandably on the more affordable and available DOC wines, the DOCGs are where the interplay between the Glera grape and the terroir really comes into play, producing deliciously characterful wines that elevate Prosecco to the big leagues.

Prosecco Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore is by far the larger of the two DOCGs and is the one this article will focus on.

Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore

Located in the Treviso province between the towns of Conegliano to the east end and Valdobbiadene to the west end, the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG includes 8,431ha of vineyard in total, including sites used for the production of the subzones of Rive and Cartizze. 7,971ha are devoted to Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore itself.

• Production: Approximately 86.3 million bottles in 2019 *92 million including Rive and Cartizze
• Producers: 182
• 15 Communes: Conegliano, San Vendemiano, Colle Umberto, Vittorio Veneto, Tarzo, Cison di Valmarino, San Pietro di Feletto, Refrontolo, Susegana, Pieve di Soligo, Farra di Soligo, Follina, Miane, Vidor and Valdobbiadene
  

This zone is characterised by steep hillsides covered in ‘ciglione’ – grass-covered terraces which give the area its picture-postcard looks. Distinct in appearance, and full of biodiversity, this is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Rive Superiore

The Rive Superiore subzone is a qualitative step up from Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore. The wines must be made from any one of 43 designated communes or hamlets high in the hills. The wines must be spumante (fully sparkling), hand-harvested and from a single vintage. These stricter regulations combined with the prime sites of the Rives ensures these wines are high quality and expressive of terroir.

Rive bottlings only represent a tiny drop of Prosecco Superiore production, with 2.1 million bottles produced in 2019 from 352ha.

Valdobbiadene Cartizze Superiore

The ‘grand cru’ of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, Cartizze Superiore covers just 108ha in the steep hills of Santo Stefano and Saccol in Valdobbiadene, producing around 1.4 million bottles in 2019. The natural amphitheatre consists of marl, sandstone and clay with high sodium content.

The vines here have the highest average age in the entire DOCG, between 60 and 70 years old, and the maximum temperatures are slightly lower than other areas of the DOCG due to the movement of fresh air from east to west.

Traditionally, the wines produced here are Dry, but it’s the balance and freshness that comes with it that has given Cartizze Superiore (or ‘Superiore di Cartizze’) its exceptional reputation.

Prosecco Superiore soils & terrain

The soils vary throughout the Prosecco Superiore DOCG.

In the west, around Valdobbiadene, marly soils absent of stones lie on steep slopes running north to south, approximately 250-300 metres above sea level. Good water retention provides the vines with above-average water throughout the growing season, leading to higher than average yields. The wines made from this area tend to be soft and delicate with floral overtones.

The majority (approximately 70%) of the northern sector of the DOCG is situated on conglomerate soils on steep slopes extending from east to west, ranging from 150-450m in altitude. The vines here can suffer from drought due to the steep inclines and shallow soil depth affecting the ground’s water-holding capability. The wines here tend to have ripe fruit flavours, sometimes even tropical fruits, with floral notes.

The south of the DOCG, encompassing Conegliano, is made up of feletti soils. The wines here can be round and rich, with ripe fruit flavours.

The east of the region is made up of morenic soils. The driest area in the DOCG with a high diurnal temperature range, the vines here benefit from fresh air running down from the Alps every morning, leading to wine which can be spicy and fruity.

The small sub-zone of Cartizze lies on calcareous soils on steep, south-facing slopes. Lower maximum temperatures are due to fresh air moving through from east to west, and the vines don’t suffer water stress as the soils retain reserves. The wines here tend to have peachy, floral notes, occasionally tropical fruits.

10 Prosecco Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG wines to try:

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