best vintage champagne
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Simon Field MW, Alan Bednarski and Tim Hall tasted 93 wines with seven Outstanding and 64 Highly Recommended

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their most recently released white vintage Champagnes


Vintage Champagne panel tasting scores

93 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 64

Recommended 19

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Faulty 1


The words vintage and Champagne make for a felicitous and evocative juxtaposition. One would have been very surprised if James Bond had offered one of his many inamoratas a glass of non-vintage Champagne.

Yet tradition and glamour belie the hard facts of the market. Non-vintage (NV) Champagne has long dominated proceedings, built out of an aspiration for a consistent style, year in year out – something achieved only by blending different grapes across different villages and different vintages.


Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring vintage Champagnes


But now ripening grapes is becoming less of a problem, and more and more Champagne houses are declaring a vintage, running the meteorological risks of the year in question with increasing confidence. The category must be on the up, surely?

The facts gainsay this assertion, however. The Comité Champagne (CIVC) numbers for 2020, a tricky year for many self-evident reasons, reveal that NV Champagne shipments made up 78.5% of the market by volume and 64.9% by value (see ‘Champagne rips up the rule book’, December 2021 issue).

Vintage’s equivalent numbers are rather feeble: 1.2% and 1.5%. Part of the reason for this is that there is a separate, largely vintage category, ‘prestige’, which accounts for 4.9% by volume and 16.5 % by value. With the other classifications (rosé, non-dosé) also on the march, there seems to be a squeeze on the ‘normal’ vintage Champagnes – trapped between the Scylla of NV volume and the Charybdis of prestige’s ever-present flirtation with luxury and aspiration.

It was high time for a tasting, then, and for some reassurance of the quality latent in this category. And quality we found aplenty, with seven wines of the 93 tasted rated 95 points or above and another seven scoring 94pts.

Testament indeed to the sheer class of some of the vintages on display, 2012 primus inter pares winning four of the top slots, and honourable mentions to that classically constructed vintage, 2013, and the older gems, 2008, 2006 and 2002.

Tim Hall, Champagne guru nonpareil, was especially enamoured of 2012, which he described as ‘majestic and concentrated’.

Indeed, all of the vintages tasted met with his approval: ‘The majority of these wines impressed with their definition and intensity, and their distinctive vintage character.’ Something, in other words, to lift them above their NV siblings.


See all 92 wines from the vintage Champagne panel tasting


Some terrific wines, then, although there may be a debate as to whether some of the entrants may have actually belonged in the prestige category.

It is sometimes hard to separate the vintage from the prestige, it has to be admitted, and this may be an issue in promoting and marketing the former.

Where, for example, do the superlative Rare 2008 (an almost embarrassingly frequent winner on the blind-tasting podium) and the wonderfully impressive Ayala, La Perle 2012 belong? Hard to say. No one, however, would deny their quality. The same point may be made about Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque and the Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs.

No matter: what is in the glass has demonstrably trumped any pedantry over definition. Alan Bednarski gave us the expert sommelier’s perspective by underlining that so many of the wines were both fantastically approachable and yet worthy of extra ageing too – not mutually exclusive qualities, for sure.

For Bednarski, the tasting offered proof, should it be needed, that ‘Champagne is by far the best-quality sparkling wine in the world’.

The competition is hotting up just as the temperature is heating up; but on the basis of a tasting such as this, we can rest assured that vintage Champagne is definitely still a force to be reckoned with…


Best vintage Champagne: See the top-scoring bottles from the panel tasting

Wines listed scored 90 points or above.


The judges

Simon Field MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Champagne. A Berry Bros & Rudd buyer for more than 20 years, he now consults on areas which particularly interested him in that time, with Champagne topping the list in France.

Alan Bednarski is a wine consultant, a Court of Master Sommeliers advanced sommelier, and a DWWA judge. He moved to London in 2015 and has held positions at prominent venues including head sommelier at Texture. In 2019, he came third in the UK Sommelier of the Year competition.

Tim Hall is director of Scala Wine, importing single-estate Champagnes to the UK and running guided trips to Champagne and Bordeaux. He won CIVC’s Champagne Ambassador UK award in 2013, and is a Chambellan of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.


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Perrier-Jouët, Belle Epoque, Champagne, France, 2013

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Fresh nose of green apple tart and peel, lime juice and hints of dry herbs and brioche. Pleasing in the mouth.

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Gremillet, Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

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Jacquart, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

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Collard-Picard, Archives Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

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Arteis & Co, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2007

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Delicate undertones of pickled apples, kumquat, pineapple and hints of vanilla and tobacco. Charmingly drinkable with a zesty finish.

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Waitrose, In Partnership with Castelnau Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

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Lively nose of baked apples, cinnamon, nutmeg and warm cream. Lively on the palate with a fresh lemony character.

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Waitrose

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Dom Caudron, Sublimité 50/50 Brut, Champagne, France, 2010

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Baked almonds, marzipan, brioche, gingerbread and honeycomb notes. Attractive fruit on the palate with a hint of smoke.

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Germar Breton, Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

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Soft and charming nose of plum, caramel and hints of mandarin. Zesty freshness with nuances of nougat on the palate.

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Maurice Grumier, Les Plates Pierres Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

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Pithy grapefruit nose with notes of spices and verbena. Composed and expressive with dairy undertones.

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Maurice Grumier

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Montaudon, Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

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Indulgent playful nose of apple charlotte and quince with toasty undertones. Vinous and flavourful on the palate.

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Brimoncourt, Brut, Champagne, France, 2009

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Developed nose of cooked yellow fruit, dry roses, white tea and grapefruit undertones. Seductive mouthfeel.

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Delavenne Père & Fils, Grand Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

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Classic nose of late season apples, nectarine, tobacco, nougat and dairy. Lively and structured on the palate.

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Delavenne Père & Fils

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Gaston Chiquet, Or 1er Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

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Lively nose of blueberries, apricots and lemon peel. Very complete palate with a touch of sweetness.

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Monmarthe, Le Mont Joyeux Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

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Enticing smoky nose with a touch of flintstone and lemongrass. Ripe with a tight lean structure holding it.

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Monmarthe

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Pannier, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

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Lifted and complex nose with notes of sea breeze and yellow apples. Pleasing texture on the palate.

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Cattier, Brut Millésimé, Champagne, France, 2012

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Savoury nose with notes of bread, orange peel and ripe peaches. Brooding on the palate with a delicate bitterness.

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Christophe Gauthier, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

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Harmonious aromas of cinnamon, cloves, peaches and guava. Firmly defined palate with a biscuity finish.

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Christophe Gauthier

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Pannier, Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

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Fresh and delicate aromas of orchard fruit, orange blossom, lily and cool fern. Generous and poised on the palate.

2015

ChampagneFrance

Pannier

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Collard-Picard, Essentiel Zero Dosage, Champagne, France, 2012

My wines
Locked score

Evolving nose displaying notes of brioche, spices, ripe peaches, coriander and marshmallow. Powerful and biscuity, very young.

2012

ChampagneFrance

Collard-Picard

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J Charpentier, Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

My wines
Locked score

Very ripe and luscious peachy fruit on the nose. Smooth and vibrant palate with an impressive concentration.

2015

ChampagneFrance

J Charpentier

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Nicolas Feuillatte, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

My wines
Locked score

Scents of citrus peel, lemongrass, hay and dried flowers. Rounded creamy texture with a pleasing lively finish.

2015

ChampagneFrance

Nicolas Feuillatte

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Vilmart, Grand Cellier d'Or 1er Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

My wines
Locked score

Lemony-rain nose with yellow cooked fruit, linseed oil and buttered toast aromas. Generous palate, ripe and vibrant.

2015

ChampagneFrance

Vilmart

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Simon Field MW
Decanter Magazine, Wine Buyer and DWWA Judge 2019

Simon Field MW joined Berry Brothers & Rudd in 1998 and was with them for 20 years, having spent several misguided but lucrative years working as a chartered accountant in the City.

During his time at BBR Simon was buying the Spanish and fortified ranges, and was also responsible for purchasing wines from Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, the Rhône Valley and the Loire Valley.

He gained his Master of Wine qualification in October 2002 and in 2015 was admitted into the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino.

He began judging at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) in 2005 and most recently judged at DWWA 2019.