Walls: top northern Rhône reds under £30
In his last column, Matt Walls highlighted 22 value whites from the northern Rhône. This week he’s on the trail of value northern Rhône reds, recommending 33 wines under £30 available in the UK.
In preparation for this column I tasted 46 reds in total, and – taking both quality and value into account – I can recommend 33 of them. Overall, the reds were less consistent than the whites, and although the lows were lower, the highs were higher. This tasting confirmed that it’s still possible to buy genuinely excellent northern Rhône reds for under £30 in the UK.
That being said, it’s virtually impossible to find any Cornas, Côte-Rôtie or Hermitage for under £30 a bottle these days, but there are plenty of entries from St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage.
I also tasted wines labelled as Côtes-du-Rhône, IGP and Vin de France, as long as the grapes were grown in the northern Rhône. St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage did tend to show their class, but there are bargains to be found at lower levels if you know where to look.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 33 great value northern Rhône reds
The St-Josephs performed particularly strongly, and although some producers such as Gonon and Gangloff are priced well above the limit for this tasting, there are many other excellent producers whose wines aren’t yet quite so punchy.
And £30 goes a long way in Crozes-Hermitage; it’s enough to access the top cuvées from some of the best producers, including Laurent Fayolle, Yann Chave and Natacha Chave.
See also: 22 northern Rhône whites under £30
There was a fairly close correlation between price and quality, but there were four wines under £20 that really shone: Lionel Faury’s St-Joseph Les Ribaudes 2020, Domaine Verzier’s IGP Collines Rhodaniennes Connivence 2021, André Perret’s St-Joseph 2018 and Domaine des Amphores’ St-Joseph Les 7 Lieux 2020.
For sheer quality however, the best wines of the tasting were Domaine Marsanne’s St-Joseph 2018 and Lionel Faury’s St-Joseph La Gloriette 2020.
Comparing recent vintages
I tasted from youngest to oldest. With only a couple of preliminary 2021s, the tasting really began with the 2020s. And what a start – a vintage of great consistency, quality and balance. It’s hard to go wrong it seems in 2020, even with relatively inexpensive northern Rhônes.
Around a third of the 2020s weren’t quite ready to drink, but they won’t need much longer. It might be an early-drinking vintage, but it’s also one that will age well, even at this level.
The 2019s were very different. Perhaps they’re entering an awkward stage, but many appeared overripe, with high alcohol. Some winemakers tried to create balance by ramping up the acidity, but often the result is wines that feel aggressive.
Texture was problematic with some 2019s too; some wines were over-extracted, others had drying tannins from excessive oak. It’s not the most balanced vintage in the northern Rhône, but certain wines did perform very well.
I was expecting to enjoy the 2019s more than the 2018s, but in fact the reverse was true. Both were hot vintages, and both featured a number of wines with excessive alcohol. Those that managed to avoid this pitfall in 2018 were often delicious, particularly those using a proportion of whole bunch, which helps to bring freshness and structure to what can be a soft and sunny year.
A few older wines were submitted too: a 2017, two 2016s and even a 2014. Even at this fairly inexpensive level, northern Rhône reds will typically age for 8 years or more in a good vintage. Some simply last rather than improve, but others can take on further interest and complexity on their journey. I’ve no doubt several of the 2020s recommended below will do just that.
33 value northern Rhône reds to seek out:
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Domaine Marsanne, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2018
Fresh though not particularly complex at this stage on the nose; wonderful on the palate however, this is very well balanced, with bite and precision....
2018
Domaine MarsanneSt-Joseph
Lionel Faury, La Gloriette, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2020
Deeply coloured. Quite intense nose, there's some tightly wound powerful aromatics waiting in the wings. A touch of smoky bacon and flinty reduction for now....
2020
Lionel FaurySt-Joseph
André Perret, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2020
Inky blackberries on the nose. Very smooth, with cooling fruit, and just a nip of soft tannin. Good sense of purity, very neat, with a...
2020
André PerretSt-Joseph
Domaine des Amphores, Les 7 Lieux, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2020
Extremely appealing raspberry and cinnamon nose, gently floral - smells very northern Rhône. A touch of rose and orange peel. Light-bodied, very fluid and drinkable,...
2020
Domaine des AmphoresSt-Joseph
Domaine Jolivet, L'Instinct, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2018
Blackberry and blackcurrant with a touch of blackcurrant leaf and bay. It has earthy, enjoyably textural tannins that suggest a proportion of whole bunch. Long...
2018
Domaine JolivetSt-Joseph
Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Sens, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
Darkly coloured. Some blackberry jam notes and roast beef on the nose, but it’s satisfyingly dry on the palate, with plentiful fine, ripe tannin -...
2020
Domaine Laurent FayolleCrozes-Hermitage
Domaine Yann Chave, Le Rouvre, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
There's a pleasant little blackcurrant jam note on the nose here. Lightly spiced, medium-bodied, juicy and with very fine tannins, there's a lovely sense of...
2020
Domaine Yann ChaveCrozes-Hermitage
Lionel Faury, Les Ribaudes, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2020
Gorgeously peppery nose, this has real intensity without need for great concentration. Serious structure too, plentiful pliable but quite strict tannins. Has that upright, tense...
2020
Lionel FaurySt-Joseph
Natacha Chave, Domaine Aléofane, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
Lovely lavender and dried herbs on the nose and palate. Shot through with saturated fine tannin and juicy blackberry acidity. Plenty of detail, personality, power,...
2020
Natacha ChaveCrozes-Hermitage
Domaine Bott, First Flight Syrah, Collines Rhodaniennes, Rhône, France, 2020
The oak is to the fore for now, it's burying the fruit somewhat, so give this a year. Aromatically speaking, this isn't overtly toasty, it's...
2020
Domaine BottCollines Rhodaniennes
André Perret, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2018
Enticing smoky depths on the nose, and on the palate too. Concentrated and powerful, the fruit is very ripe and quite squishy. Good sense of...
2018
André PerretSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Les Silices, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2020
The oak is still quite noticeable, but it's not excessive – it just needs some more time to integrate. Really quite tannic and concentrated. Has...
2020
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine François Merlin, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2018
A polished style that’s ripe, concentrated and intense, with a little balsamic touch on the nose. The alcohol feels rather high, but this has great...
2018
Domaine François MerlinSt-Joseph
Domaine Richard, Les Nuelles, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2019
Good depth of fruit, with very smooth tannins, savoury. Concentrated, ending on a touch of oak spice and bright acids. This has real class; the...
2019
Domaine RichardSt-Joseph
Domaine Richard, Les Prémices, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2020
Very dark in the glass, with a captivating nose, really vibrant, with cedar, star anise and incense. Medium-bodied, with good concentration but no heaviness. Finishes...
2020
Domaine RichardSt-Joseph
Domaine Verzier, Connivence, Collines Rhodaniennes, Rhône, France, 2021
Spicy blueberry fruits, blackcurrant leaf and oregano – this could only be northern Rhône Syrah. Light-bodied, fresh and easy-going on the palate, not terribly concentrated...
2021
Domaine VerzierCollines Rhodaniennes
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Domaine de Thalabert, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2014
Showing some development to the colour, more transparency than a young vintage. Certainly developed now on the nose too, a pleasing note of sweet decay,...
2014
Paul Jaboulet AînéCrozes-Hermitage
Domaine des Remizières, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
Very fresh and pure, with petrichor on the nose, its aroma is very 'after the rain'. Violets, blackberries and blackcurrants too. Good sense of tension...
2020
Domaine des RemizièresCrozes-Hermitage
Domaine du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016
Has an enjoyable sense of elegance on the palate, fresh, with well-integrated, smooth tannins. This still feels harmonious and well balanced, and has good length....
2016
Domaine du ColombierCrozes-Hermitage
Domaine JL Chave Sélection, Silène, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
Introverted on the nose for now, fairly powerful, the alcohol is well balanced but the tannins need taming – they're big, bold and chewy. Naturally...
2020
Domaine JL Chave SélectionCrozes-Hermitage
E Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2018
Really appealing, soft, open and easy-going style of northern Rhône. Light- to medium-bodied, well balanced with good acidity. Fairly long on the finish too. Feels...
2018
E GuigalCrozes-Hermitage
Famille Garon, La Part des Vivants, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2018
Fresh on the nose, more red-fruited than some. Light- to medium-bodied, fluid, with good acidity and subtle, neat tannins. Really vibrant and drinkable. Not concentrated,...
2018
Famille GaronCôtes du Rhône
Jean-Michel Gerin, La Champine, Vin de France, Rhône, France, 2020
Decent concentration, this feels quite lively and energetic on the palate, it has finely pixelated tannins and balanced acidity. There's a subtle chew to the...
2020
Jean-Michel GerinVin de France
Domaine Mucyn, Les Entrecoeurs, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2019
Gentle fruits, blackberry and blueberry, it doesn't shout. Soft on the palate too, with a texture like brushed cotton. The ripe fruit and soft tannins...
2019
Domaine MucynCrozes-Hermitage
Ferraton Père & Fils, La Source, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2019
Wood smoke on the nose. Fairly full-bodied, this has a big presence on the palate, and fine tannins that are saturated in ripe fruit. It...
2019
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Lieu-dit Pichères, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
Fresh blackberries, blackcurrants, violets. The tannins are quite robust, it’s a touch over-extracted perhaps, so I would leave this for a year or two to...
2020
Ferraton Père & FilsCrozes-Hermitage
M Chapoutier, Les Meysonniers, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
Dense yet fresh with an underlying flinty mineral side to the aromas, some pencil lead on the palate. A spicy style, fresh, with plentiful tannin...
2020
M ChapoutierCrozes-Hermitage
Domaine des Pierres Sèches, Pur Ju, Vin de France, Rhône, France, 2018
Introverted on the nose for now, very juicy and soft on the palate. The acidity is good, the alcohol however quite warming on the finish,...
2018
Domaine des Pierres SèchesVin de France
Domaine Vendome, Les Coulaires, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
Juicy blackberry fruit, a touch of black cherry, some cinnamon edging. Ripe, round and quite potent for an inexpensive northern Rhône Syrah. The alcohol might...
2020
Domaine VendomeCrozes-Hermitage
Domaine Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2020
Violet-scented, light-bodied style that's not hugely concentrated but is very well balanced. Wet-clay tannins on the finish, which has some length to it. Not complex,...
2020
Domaine Yann ChaveCrozes-Hermitage
Stéphane Ogier, La Rosine, Vin de France, Rhône, France, 2019
Nice sense of purity on the nose, with a touch of smoke to the blackberry fruit. Medium- to full-bodied, really quite ripe and generous. Plenty...
2019
Stéphane OgierVin de France
Domaine Jolivet, La Cuvée de Louis, Vin de France, Rhône, France, 2018
Really quite reductive on the nose on opening. A touch of blackberry eau-de-vie. There's strawberry fruit too. Soft on the palate, with plenty of fat,...
2018
Domaine JolivetVin de France
Yves Cuilleron, Les Vignes d'à Côté Syrah, Collines Rhodaniennes, Rhône, France, 2021
Fruity and easy going, quite simple really. Well balanced. It lacks a strong northern Rhône signature, but it's a decent Syrah and under £15 a...
2021
Yves CuilleronCollines Rhodaniennes
