Emmanuel Darnaud, Saint Joseph, Rhône, 2010

Tasting: Saint Joseph 2010

Dense gamey nose, black fruits, a trace of reduction but not excessive. Rich, full-bodied, very concentrated, dense and forceful, with strong acidity to match the strength of tannins but without too much extraction. Very youthful but has fine potential. Good length and built to last.

Tasting: Saint Joseph 2010

Deep purple colouring and a fine nose of blueberry, damson and bay leads to a palate where the tannins are still somewhat in the ascendant but the weight of fruit will win over in the end, with the acidity lending structural support and a purity of voice.

Tasting: Saint Joseph 2010

Liquorice, salty tang air, oak underlay above its modern, black cherry fruiting. The modernism is overt here – it is oak-themed, with a run of blackberry fruit that is a shade brittle thanks to the oak. Has gras at its heart, even gras from old Syrah, so should be OK if left until 2015. A late spot of generosity is encouraging.