Emilio Moro, Malleolus de Valderramiro, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2003
One of two 90 year old vineyards belonging to Emilio Moro – the other is Sanchomartin and it’s interesting to taste them side by side. On this occasion the Valderramiro (on clay) scored one point higher than the Sanchomartin (on chalk). A memorably extreme year, but this wine shows ringingly bright acidity, and the dense concentration of old vines. The oak is still apparent (José Moro says he chose to do malolactic fermentation in American oak and ageing in French oak) but it is refined and balances the dense fruit well.
Taster Sarah Jane Evans MW
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