After tasting 262 Tuscan wines from Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino, Michaela Morris has given her verdict on the latest releases from the region.
Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all the wines she tasted scoring 94 points or above.
| Producer | Appellation | Score | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fuligni | Brunello di Montalcino | 99 | The Fuligni family moved from Maremma to Montalcino early in the 20th century, establishing the estate in 1923. Maria Flora has been at the helm since 1971, with her nephew Roberto managing most of the operations today. This historic property has released one of the most exquisite wines of 2016. Revealing its complexities gradually, it unfolds with a smoky flintiness, balsamic nuances and Mediterranean herbs. Seemingly endless in layers and depth, there is generosity but it never weighs the palate down. Powerful, sophisticated tannins are finely powdered, and piercing acidity radiates throughout. Hints of liquorice, violet, blood orange and iron eventually emerge. Lengthy and effortlessly commanding. | |
| Conti Costanti | Brunello di Montalcino | 98 | With a history stretching back to the mid-16th century, Conti Costanti is one of the founding estates of the Brunello di Montalcino denomination, run by Andrea Costanti since 1983. He follows up his gorgeously seductive 2015 with a stunningly refined and gracious 2016. Savoury earthy notes are accompanied by nuanced dried florals, citrus peel and pure red berries. It reaches profound depths on the palate where compact, ripe and dusty tannins promise a long cellaring life. It's so seamlessly put together that it's almost a shame to try teasing it apart. | |
| Il Marroneto, Madonna delle Grazie | Brunello di Montalcino | 98 | Trying Il Marroneto’s various lots from cask is a fascinating exercise. They are all similarly located at high altitude, on coarse sand of marine origin and predominantly north facing. While they demonstrate subtle differences, Madonna delle Grazie’s distinct character often merits a separate bottling - as evidenced by the 2016. Aromas take on the darkest, most heady purple flowers tangled up in allspice and smoky incense. It is muscular in frame with firm tannins that stick and grip and don't let go, although it's never brawny, heavy or hard-edged. Currently a mouthful of stones, it reveals a balsamic core and tangy salted plum on the finish. | |
| Canalicchio di Sopra, La Casaccia | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | The second release of this single vineyard, La Casaccia was planted in 1990. At an average altitude of 300 metres, it sits on predominantly clay soils and is bathed in sun from morning until evening. This doesn’t have quite the plushness or gregarious personality of the 2015 but takes on the 2016 vintage’s more vertical path, opening slowly. Aromas are evocative of pine, cedar and sage. Full but not weighty, the palate brings in earthy nuances with wild berries. Acidity is cleansing, and silky tannins build up to a powerful finish. | |
| Casanova di Neri, Tenuta Nuova | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | Tenuta Nuova is Casanova di Neri’s southern expression of Brunello. Vines were planted in 1989 and Gianlorenzo Neri says they are now hitting their stride, giving wines with more persistence and depth than earlier vintages. The 2016 clearly demonstrates both of these attributes. It is not as immediate as the white label but unfolds decorously with earth, tar, leather, black currants and cinnamon. The tannins are refined, clinging to the palate with a clayey texture. Pristine and polished with masses of personality, the briny undertow cleanses the mouth brilliantly. Balsam and orange carry the finish. | |
| Le Chiuse | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | This striking 2016 is a suave yet dense package. It’s headily scented with violet, lilac and rose, eventually giving way to exotic spice and tobacco. The tannins are chalky and integrated but commanding from the get-go. The palate is packed with succulent blackberry and strawberry. Accents of leather suggest a savouriness that should amplify with time. The estate now releases its Riserva at 10 years of age, and it is well worth seeking out as it's a great indication of how Le Chiuse’s wines evolve. | |
| Le Ragnaie, Vigna Vecchia | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | From a 50-year-old site at 600 metres, Le Ragnaie’s Vigna Vecchia is among the estate’s last to be harvested. In 2016, Riccardo Campinoti had to finish quickly in mid-October as he could see the weather turning. Irony, savoury and mineral-led, this is thrilling and intense but needs time to open up. Despite its youthful austerity, there is significant depth and a citrussy zestiness. The tannins are effortlessly refined, dissolving slowly across the palate in a tactile caress. Excellent. | |
| Padelletti | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | Sitting just below the town of Montalcino, Padelletti's six hectares are northeast-facing on clay soil rich in sandstone and limestone. The estate offers elegant yet profound wines epitomised by the 2016 vintage. It opens gradually with scents of violet, lilac, truffle and liquorice. Midweight and fluid, with finessed but firm tannins and brisk acidity, this finishes long with savoury tea notes. A magnificent reminder that Brunello doesn’t need to be a powerhouse to be ageworthy. | |
| San Polino, Helichrysum | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | Helichrysum comes from the southeast, in the area of Podernovi where high altitudes counter the warmth. The vines are pruned closely to give low-yields of grapes with thick skins and less juice. More powerfully structured than the estate Brunello, this is mouthfilling and expansive. Baked asphalt and iron lend intrigue to youthfully exuberant plum and wild strawberry. The tannins seem to grab at every part of the mouth with a sandy, grainy texture, and the persistent finish features clove and allspice. Tons of energy here. | |
| Sesta di Sopra | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | Ettore Spina and Enrica Bandirola purchased the Sesta di Sopra estate as a holiday home in the late 1980s. After restoring the farmhouse, they replanted a total of 2.8 hectares of vines and produced their first wine from the 1999 vintage. The 2016 leads with captivating aromas of dry earth, tea, violet and lavender, and the palate is equally compelling. Battonage of the lees during ageing gives a rather sumptuous palate with perceptively talc-like dusty tannins sitting underneath the fruit. Iron and stone impart complexity to this seamless, unique Brunello. | |
| Casanova di Neri, Cerretalto | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | First vinified as a single vineyard in 1981, and bottled as a Riserva until 1993, Cerretalto comes from an iron-rich marly site in the far east of Montalcino. Slow ripening, it is always the last plot to be harvested. While demonstrating some of its typical youthful austerity, the 2015 has a bit more flesh and baby fat than usual but it is still recognisably Cerretalto, with its mineral-driven, powerfully structured palate. Aromas are redolent of vanilla, balsam, smoke and dark chocolate, while the palate offers blackberry and black currants. Lively acidity pierces the fruit intensity. I wouldn't touch it for another three years. | |
| Baricci, Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 96 | One of the few founding estates of the Brunello consorzio in 1967, Baricci is now in the hands of the third generation. If approaching this anytime soon, give it plenty of time in a decanter. Compelling and complex aromas of stone, leather, cinnamon and iron take time to surface. The palate is weighted but not weighty, with crisp red currant and red cherry flavours. It has a dusty Tuscan dirt road feel - pebbles and all - with commanding chalky tannins and a salty, mineral finish. | |
| Poggio di Sotto | Brunello di Montalcino | 96 | There is always something so recognisable and pure in Poggio di Sotto. The estate has made a great effort to preserve the genetic material of the vines, and the Sangiovese is a massal selection of its own biotypes. Aromas drip with ripe red cherry, Mediterranean herbs and white pepper. The fruit is sumptuous and very juicy – all raspberry and nectarine flesh. Beautifully weightless yet mouthfilling, it's racy and fluid with powdery tannins that cleanse the palate, and a lingering finish of orange blossom and tea. | |
| Silvio Nardi, Manachiara | Brunello di Montalcino | 96 | Truly the loveliest Manachiara I have tried and among my favourite wines of the vintage. Produced since 1995, it is crafted from Nardi’s vineyards near Castelnuovo dell’Abate in a warm yet breezy spot with cool nights and morning sun exposure. The nose is sun-soaked with plum, baked herbs and exotic florals, while the palate brings in flavours of nectarine, leather and a saline edge. Plush, fleshy and full, it is enveloped in a velvety texture that builds artfully to a powdery, tactile grip. This will give heaps of enjoyment for many years to come. | |
| Biondi-Santi | Brunello di Montalcino | 96 | The new team at Biondi-Santi assembled this with the family after multiple tastings of each cask. The objective was to preserve the estate’s signature freshness and mitigate heady alcohol from the relatively late harvest at the end of September. The result truly is balanced. It is an extroverted, dark-toned Brunello with black cherries, currants, violets and fragrant earth. Pure and elegant with radiant acidity, the palate possesses beautiful inner-mouth perfume and a saliva-inducing, minerally underscore. For all of its suppleness and velvetiness, there is still a welcome firmness and assertiveness not always found in 2015. | |
| Altesino, Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | Altesino has been producing a separate bottling from the cru of Montosoli since 1975, though the vines were partially replanted in 2005 and 2016. If Altesino’s estate Brunello is almost accessible already, the polished yet intense Montosoli needs time in the cellar to demonstrate its potential. The nose is discreet with violet, bramble and bay leaf taking on earthy, savoury tones as it sits in the glass. Tight and firmly fastened, the palate fuses stony notes of granite with dark cherry. Ageing is in 30hL casks of Slavonian oak. | |
| Argiano, Vigna del Suolo | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | Argiano's oldest site, Vigna del Suolo boasts 65-year-old vines of very rare Sangiovese clones. Recent soil mapping with Chilean specialist Pedro Parra has also revealed significant limestone underpinnings in the vineyard. The 2016 sports a smoky, earthy, dusty nose punctuated by dried fennel. Ripe, chalky tannins are currently front and centre, needing time to cede, while sun-soaked berries underneath speak unabashedly of its southern origins. There is much lurking in this textured, packed Brunello, including orange, mint and a twist of salty sea air. | |
| Casanova di Neri | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | The 2016 vintage was marked by significant day and nighttime temperature differences. Gianlorenzo Neri says this was particularly pronounced in Montalcino’s northeast, where the vineyards for the estate’s ‘white label’ are found. With beautiful focus off the bat, this grabs your attention immediately. Black raspberry and wild cherry give way to liquorice, wet stones and smoke. The fruit is velvety, but quickly hemmed in by powdery, grippy tannins which retreat a bit on the finish, likes waves, leaving rose and violets in their wake. Vibrant and racy. | |
| Castello Romitorio, Filo di Seta | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | Filo di Seta sits at the foot of the Romitorio hill facing the revered Montosoli cru. A mix of Galestro, clay and limestone, the plot boasts a significant presence of surface quartz crystals. In the 2016, aromas are both savoury and floral with bay leaf and liquorice underpinned by lilac. It is fuller, denser and richer than the estate Brunello, with some youthful chocolatey oak, but it doesn’t sacrifice brightness. Packed with flavour and a long chewy finish, this just needs some time to integrate all of its elements. | |
| Il Marroneto | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | Owner and winemaker Alessandro Mori calls himself a naturalista. His wines ferment spontaneously with indigenous years and see long ageing in large old oak casks. He allows the natural temperatures of the cellar to guide the wine’s refinement and uses minimal sulphur throughout. Along with all of its signature floral fragrances of rose and violet, ll Marroneto’s 2016 is positively spicy with a peppery, juniper snap. It sits lightly on the palate while delivering profound flavour and length. Clean and bright, distinct notes of rosehip and raspberry ring out while refined tannins sneak up with textured chalkiness. | |
| Il Poggione | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | Among Montalcino's largest estates, Il Poggione continues to impress in 2016 under father and son winemaking duo, Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci. The wine wears its warm, southwestern origins assuredly on its sleeve, exhibiting dark bramble fruit intertwined with baked thyme and rosemary, fragrant wet earth and leather. It is weighty but not weighed down, and sports the grip and zip of the vintage, the lingering finish full of tobacco and spice. | |
| La Magia | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | Winemaker and owner Fabian Schwartz favours 500L French oak tonneau for ageing, with the percentage of new wood increasing up through his range of Brunello. Here, a moderate 30% is cleverly integrated and barely perceptible. Pristine and pretty, La Màgia’s estate Brunello doesn’t give up everything all at once: it progresses from floral notes to sunbaked earth and irony intricacies. Almost midweight yet with lovely depth of fruit, the palate displays an exotic citrussy element, framed by very fine powdery tannins. | |
| Le Ragnaie, Casanovina Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | Le Ragnaie is among about 10 producers now making a separate Montosoli bottling. Riccardo Campinoti purchased a one-hectare plot on the lower part of this revered hill at the end of 2014, and this second vintage is a beauty. Plum and earth give way to scents of smoky incense and lilac. Initially tight, it becomes more yielding as it sits in the glass, demonstrating some roundness to the fruit. Fine, silky tannins frame the palate while succulent acidity keep it fresh. The finish lingers with an explosion of crushed flowers. | |
| Lisini | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | Lisini is one of Montalcino’s oldest estates and has been owned by the Lisini-Clementi family since the 16th century. Today, it is run by Ludovica Lisini and her cousins Carlo and Lorenzo. After a few moments in the glass, liquorice, chocolate and tobacco begin to permeate. Full yet deftly balanced, layers of grainy tannins are an equal match for the dense, dark fruit. Though ageing is in large oak casks, there is a suggestion of wood with sweet vanillin and mint. I suspect a couple more years in bottle will bring everything into exquisite cohesion. | |
| Gaja, Pieve Santa Restituta Sugarille | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | From a single, southwest-facing vineyard on clay and limestone soil rich in Galestro, the 2016 Sugarille is large-framed but poised. With a brooding character, it is shaded by tobacco, smoky incense and grilled sage. The palate contributes mineral graphite notes and dense black plum, while muscley tannins keep everything resolutely in check. In recent years the estate has moved from barriques to ageing in larger tonneaux of 500 and 700L, in combination with big casks of 40hL. | |
| San Polino | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | With an eye towards the Apennines, San Polino’s northerly vineyards are fully exposed to cool winter winds coming from Siberia. The vines are cropped a little heavier here than in the estate’s southeastern site, giving grapes with lots of juice. Yet there is no lack of concentration - it's a linear, elegant package. Dried flowers, peppery spice and cherry sit atop dark, wet soil. Sinewy, chalky and powdery tannins wrap around a core of crunchy fruit, almost ready to unfurl, with mineral touches, tangy acidity, and a graceful flow. | |
| Sesti | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | In the southern reaches of Montalcino, just west of Sant’Angelo in Colle, Sesti is flanked by two valleys. To the east, Monte Amiata protects from serious storms, while sea breezes from the southwest act as air conditioning. Expansive and abundant, this wine captures the warmth, coating the palate with lavish brushstrokes - but it is by no means heavy. Vibrant acidity and a mineral tang join tactile grainy tannins in providing a balanced framework. I kept coming back to this wine over a couple of days and was so impressed by its staying power. | |
| Tassi, Giuseppe Tassi | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | The most elegant and restrained yet structured and mighty of Tassi’s 2016s, Giuseppe Tassi is almost confounding – yet compellingly so. A selection of the best grapes from a warm, southwest-facing site at 240 metres above sea level in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, it emerges slowly with aromas of cured leather, scorched earth and tobacco. While not shy in fruit, the expression on the palate is discreet but eventually reveals exotic oriental herbs, cinnamon and clove. Tactile, sinewy tannins hold this compact wine together. | |
| Lisini, Ugolaia | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | On volcanic red soil, at 320 metres above sea level, Lisini’s Ugolaia plot represents the estate’s oldest vines. Ageing is in large Slavonian oak botti. Aromas of ripe raspberry and strawberry are interwoven with a compelling accent of iron ore. The palate is glossy with ample sweet fruit and luscious, velvety tannins giving it an expansive figure, while soft yet tangy acidity gives a revitalising boost. It finishes with cocoa-dusted orange. This is hard not to like and really quite approachable. | |
| Altesino | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | One of four estates in Tuscany owned by Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, Altesino counts six vineyard sites throughout Montalcino. They extend from the region’s far north all the way to the southeastern corner of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. An assembly of these, the 2016 Brunello has a sunny, fluid Mediterranean character. It is graciously scented with cinnamon, lavender and sage blossom. Traces of orange and leather appear on the palate. Mid-weight with succulent fruit and fresh, ripe tannins, this is almost approachable now but will offer delightful mid-term drinking. | |
| Canalicchio di Sopra | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Canalicchio di Sopra’s estate Brunello is a blend of plots from its home base in Canalicchio, as well as holdings on the Montosoli hill. The 2016 allies the restrained fleshiness of the former and the salinity of the latter with a balsamic dash. Scents of lilac and bay laurel turn to pure dark cherry on the palate, which is laced with liquorice and stone. Suave tannins maintain a grainy grip and there is no lack of mouthwatering acidity. Thrilling umami finish! | |
| Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, Pianrosso | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Considered the estate’s most representative vineyard, Pianrosso was replanted in the 1980s. It sits on iron rich marly soil and reaches 360 metres above sea level. Weightier and richer than the estate Brunello, it is also more mineral-laden. A promising nose of pungent potpourri and cherry orchard leads to plum cake on the palate. Layered velvety tannins clasp substantial fruit while offsetting hints of orange oil and fennel that provide refreshment. | |
| Gianni Brunelli | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | I remember Laura Brunelli describing her 2007 Brunello as a young colt – unbridled yet fascinating. Her 2016 is much more disciplined but still exhibits that spirit and power. It combines fruit from the northerly vineyard of Le Chiuse di Sotto with plots on the southeastern slopes in the Sant’Antimo area. While less overtly fragrant at the moment than past vintages, its dense, sumptuous fruit and assertive, sinewy tannins suggest a long life in the cellar. Hints of fennel, incense, cedar forest and currants bode well. | |
| Podere Giodo | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Evocatively scented, Giodo’s vanilla and cedary forest aromas gradually surrender to exotic flowers and orange oil. The palate is subtle in its concentration, revealing cocoa-dusted crunchy red berries enveloped in silky, supple tannins. It finishes vivacious and sappy with scintillating freshness. The polish and sophistication speak to someone who has honed his skills. Indeed, owner Carlo Ferrini is one of Tuscany’s most prominent consultants and has had over 35 years’ experience working with Sangiovese. He still lends his expertise at Montalcino’s Talenti and Castello Romitorio estates. | |
| La Cerbaiola di Salvioni | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Salvioni’s Brunello is a beautifully limpid ruby in colour, rather than saturated. Pretty scents of strawberry, rose and tea escape on an earthy backdrop. The palate is effortless and weightless, yet replete with dusty cherry and raspberry, while terracotta-textured tannins wrap around juicy nectarine flesh. The focus at Salvioni is one single wine – this Brunello, which is produced from the estate’s four hectares in Montalcino’s southeast. In years when quantities permit, like 2016, Salvioni also releases a Rosso. | |
| La Magia, Ciliegio | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | From a plot of over 40-year-old vines surrounding an old cherry tree that sits in the middle of La Màgia’s 15-hectare vineyard, Ciliegio opens with grilled, toasty oak aromas. With time, violet, ripe black currants and mint emerge. Full-figured though not weighty, black cherry fruit is countered by vibrant acidity and chewy, grainy tannins, then mocha and balsamic herbs ring out on the finish. Give the wood time to integrate because there is much, much more going on. Exactly 1,108 numbered bottles produced. | |
| Le Potazzine | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Owned by Gigliola Giannetti and her daughters Viola and Sofia, the estate is comprised of two vineyards: near the town of Montalcino, Le Prata rises over 500 metres, while the slightly lower site of La Torre is located in Sant’Angelo in Colle. Le Potazzine’s Brunello takes time to come into focus, but when it does a cascade of brambly forest berries, anise, cinnamon, tea and incense waft from the glass. There's a plushness to the fruit and a crisp youthfulness. Chalky tannins cling elegantly to the edges. | |
| Le Ragnaie | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Blended from Le Ragnaie's scattered vineyards, this provides a wide-angle snapshot of Montalcino’s varied territory, violets and Mediterranean scrub meeting wild strawberry, stone and an intriguing earthiness. It also encapsulates Sangiovese’s buoyancy, coming across as mid-weight at first then building with power as firm, dusty tannins wrap around a tangy core. The finish is energetic and uplifting - an elegantly sculpted Brunello. As with the estate’s single-vineyard bottlings, fermentation is spontaneous, macerations are a lengthy 45 to 50 days, and ageing is in large Slavonian oak casks. | |
| Silvio Nardi, Poggio Doria | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Poggio Doria comes from a five-hectare plot in the wooded and densely shrubbed area of Casale del Bosco. Harvested slightly later than the Manachiara, in the first week of October, the 2016 is immediately expressive and precise in its aromas of medicinal herbs, fragrant forest, gingerbread and spice. The most linear and least generously fruited of Nardi’s three Brunello, it will need some time to unfurl and for the wood to integrate but there is much promise. Immensely juicy on the finish. | |
| Talenti | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | With varying altitudes and soils, Talenti’s diverse vineyards are dispersed through the southern area of Montalcino. Making the wine since 1999, Riccardo Talenti amasses the different components to achieve an overall balance of ripeness, acidity and alcohol. The 2016 is less immediately expressive and effusively fragrant than previous vintages. Nevertheless, its discreet charms are apparent. There's an earthy, nutty tug underneath spiced red fruit, and it demonstrates Sangiovese’s weightlessness and tactile powdery tannins. Tangy and mineral-driven on the finish. | |
| Talenti, Piero | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | The second vintage of this tribute to Talenti’s founder, Piero hails from a two-hectare plot that Pierluigi Talenti propagated with selected clones approximately 50 years ago. It is more robust, and fruit-laden compared to the estate’s Brunello, though I am not sure it will necessarily be longer-lived. Underneath the dark, dense, ripe fruit a beam of brightness surfaces with a distinct note of blood orange. The tannins are silky and smooth but copious. Cocoa dusts the finish. | |
| Tassi, Colombaio | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | A new cru bottling for Tassi, Colombaio sits at 350 metres above sea level overlooking the Sant’Antimo abbey. The Franci family bought the 0.9-hectare, southeast-facing vineyard at the beginning of 2016. Extroverted in personality, it offers scents of sweet spice, dark plum and bay leaf. The plush-fruited palate exhibits dark chocolate, cocoa and cherry enveloped in ripe and polished tannins. There's lots to chew on here, and Sangiovese's heroic acidity carries the finish. | |
| Tenuta San Giorgio, Ugolforte | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Just after the 2016 harvest, the ColleMassari Group’s Claudio Tipa purchased the San Giorgio property and immediately started the conversion to organic viticulture. Ageing has also been adjusted - this no longer sees any new barriques and instead matures entirely in 30hL Slavonian oak casks. It shows wonderful restraint with subtle scents of lavender, lilac and mint blossom. Black cherry and earth appear on the palate, which is firm and admirably uncompromising in its constitution. A robust and concentrated yet buoyant Brunello. | |
| Val di Suga, Vigna Spuntali | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | On the luminous slopes of Montalcino’s southwest, Vigna Spuntali is characterised by sandy soils. Winemaker Andrea Lonardi explains that this yields bigger berries than schist or clay. In some vintages, like 2016, he bleeds off 10-15% of the juice to give more density. Very Mediterranean in personality, it explodes with thyme, oregano, mint and sage blossom. There's a lusciousness to the palate which exhibits exotic red fruit and a salty lick. Sandy tannins lend textural complexity to this radiant Brunello. | |
| Valdicava | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Now helped by his son PierFilippo, Valdicava owner Vincenzo Abbruzzese crafts Brunello from the hill of Montosoli, with the guiding hand of renowned consultant Attilio Pagli. Released at the end of September 2020, the 2015 initially flirts with fleeting sweet wood nuances, then gives way to mint, black raspberry, moist dark earth and an intriguing sea breeze touch. Silky talc-like tannins bolster the concentrated fruit but ultimately this is quite an understated, pretty 2015 with lovely balance and elegance. Hints of wildflowers and stone grace the finish. | |
| Fuligni, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | Fuligni’s Riserva embodies the spirit of its designation. Despite long ageing in large oak casks, it demands more time in bottle and should age gracefully for many years. It comes from the estate’s original Podere Cottimelli site in Montalcino’s northeast. Earthy chestnut and wet soil make way for hints of liquorice, lilac and allspice. Broad and expansive, it starts off with velvety tannins that build to a powdery mass, yet there's a lovely perfume that lifts the palate along with saline, stony nuances and citrussy acidity to finish. | |
| Padelletti, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 97 | A selection of the estate's oldest vines averaging 35 to 40 years old, Padelletti’s Riserva is aged in a combination of French and Slavonian five-hectolitre oak casks. Intriguingly fragrant but subtly so, this slowly reveals blood orange, dark plum, lavender and spice. Though richly fruited and generous, it shows breed and energy. It's a very textural Sangiovese, with layers of granular tannins and an equally thrilling lift. It's almost drinkable now but has plenty more to come. | |
| Canalicchio di Sopra, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 96 | In years it's produced, Canalicchio di Sopra crafts its Riserva from a single vineyard of the estate’s oldest vines. In 2015, it hails from Vigna Vecchia Mercatale, which countered the vintage’s warmth with its north-facing, breezy exposure. Opening slowly, it marries lifted liquorice, dried flowers and baking spice with forest undergrowth and leather. There's plenty of character here with a mouthful of dusty red currants and red cherries. Chewy and vigorous, it really keeps improving in the glass - but I would put it away for a few more years. | |
| La Magia, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 96 | In the southeastern sector of Montalcino, La Màgia’s well-ventilated sloping vineyards enjoy significant day and night temperature differences. A harvest selection of superior bunches, this Riserva initially shows some new oak nuances, though they never dominate. Perfumed sandalwood, violet and earth notes permeate. Initially round and smooth, with plump strawberry and plum fruit, grainy tannins then stick to the edges of the palate, while perky acidity and stony minerality bring tension. This shows the vintage to its best advantage. | |
| Lisini, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 96 | Lisini’s Riserva carries the ripeness of the vintage effortlessly. It's assembled from the vintage’s best grapes rather than from a predetermined parcel, and only 3,800 bottles are produced. Sun-drenched red cherry is interwoven with scents of lavender, tarragon, and a suggestion of warm sea air. The shapely, densely packed palate introduces upfront powdery tannins, with juicy notes of pomegranate and blood orange underneath. It's very toothsome and finishes with a highly appetising, decidedly mineral twang. | |
| Sesti, Phenomena Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 96 | Sesti’s Riserva sees long ageing in Slovenian oak casks - Elisa Sesti explains that the soil of marine sediments gives soft tannins which wouldn’t work with small barrels. The 2015 is particularly voluptuous, supple and silky but builds with nice grip and chewines, and there's a graceful tug-of-war between lightness and density. Exotic aromas of cinnamon, sarsaparilla and iron lead to a palate showing further complexities of roots, spices, tar and dusty red fruit. It leaves the mouth clean, yet all of its flavours linger. Illustrates the vintage with aplomb. | |
| Baricci, Nello Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | This is named in honour of Nello Baricci, who founded the estate in 1955 and passed away in 2017. The Riserva hails from a superior plot of Baricci’s holdings in Montosoli and is only made in vintages when there's a big enough difference to the estate Brunello. Taking time to open up, it reveals sweet black cherry, blackberry and anise. It shows the ripeness of the vintage but remains properly cinched-in and fresh. On the palate, salted black liquorice, mint and a pleasant chinotto bitterness are wrapped in dusty, gravelly tannins and finishes with a touch of heat. This is quite a fun mouthful. | |
| Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d'Oro Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | A selection of bunches from Ciacci Piccolomini’s iron-rich Pianrosso vineyard in Montalcino’s southeast, this sees a long maceration and ageing in variously sized used Slavonian oak barrels. It strikes a fine balance of generous ripeness with freshness and juiciness. Pure strawberry, cherry and raspberry meet lilac, rose and an underlying minerality. It's fluid and almost easy to drink, though long, powdery tannins expand across the palate giving textural complexity. It leaves the mouth clean but wanting more with an appetising blood orange finish. | |
| Conti Costanti, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | A cask rather than vineyard selection, Conti Costanti’s Riserva is crafted from barrels that demonstrate the greatest tannic structure and acidity for long ageing. The 2015 is undoubtedly powerful with masses of grainy tannins and concentration, but it still captures the vintage’s generous and affable personality. Replete with black cherry, blackberry, wet forest earth, star anise and cinnamon, its sweet, ripe fruit is countered by a savoury leather element. It carries its size with ease and grace - almost irresistible now, there's so much there for years of drinking pleasure. | |
| Biondi-Santi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 95 | The 2013 vintage is the estate's latest Riserva to be released, the winery’s 40th Riserva since 1888 and the first vintage in over 40 years without the leadership of Franco Biondi-Santi. Due to rainstorms in September, the family delayed picking until the end of the month, making 2013 a relatively late harvest for Biondi-Santi. Classic sour red cherry notes are accented by orange, sandalwood and fennel. The palate charms with its savoury expression, finely textured sandy tannins and underlying minerality. Understated and refined, it flows gracefully but will nevertheless benefit from a couple of years in the cellar. | |
| Altesino, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | While Altesino’s Montosoli bottling is a closeup of a single cru, this Riserva is a panoramic shot of Montalcino. It draws on a selection of bunches from the estate’s vineyards spread throughout the region. It's an attractive and seductive interpretation of 2015 with scents of rose, orange and exotic spice. The palate offers ample depth of macerated cherry and ripe strawberry. Tannins are supple, though build with a chalky texture and carry the weight of plentiful fruit effortlessly. A tangle of tarragon, fennel and mint linger on the finish. | |
| Caprili, AdAlberto Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | An homage to winemaker Giacomo Bartolommei’s great grandfather Alberto, this Riserva is from the estate’s Madre vineyard, planted in 1965 and serving as a mother block for new plantings. This evokes Tuscany’s slightly unkempt wildness with Mediterranean scrub, dried flowers, sun-soaked berries and sea breezes. It’s full, with voluminous ripe fruit corseted by dry, chalky tannins. Flavours are somewhat oxidative in character, though not tired, and the structure is solid. The finish reverberates with salted liquorice. | |
| Castello Romitorio, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Romitorio’s Riserva is a selection of the Chia family’s four oldest plots, planted in 1987 with local Sangiovese clones sourced from Biondi-Santi and Soldera cuttings. This gives a sense of the estate’s relatively cool, northwest-facing vineyards and surrounding woodlands. It is rather discreet and needs coaxing to elicit its appealing hints of red berries, grilled herb, porcini mushroom and forest floor. It's full but bright, with upfront tangy acidity and red currant and sour cherry notes, with fresh mint emerging on the backend. The tannins are fine and silky, making for a sophisticated sip. | |
| Gianni Brunelli, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Owner Laura Vacca has several small parcels that she can play with, choosing the warm Vigna Olmo in Montalcino’s southeast to give spine to her Riserva. This is among the most closed examples in 2015. It hints at a wild, earthy personality then gives glimpses of lavender, mint, sage and liquorice that I typically find in the estate’s wines. The palate is equally restrained, with dusty dry earth on a backdrop of ripe black cherry and black currants. Assertive tannins grip the finish - patience is necessary here. | |
| Il Poggione, Vigna Paganelli Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Vigna Paganelli sits on an alluvial terrace at 200 metres above sea level boasting vines that are now over 50 years old. In 2015, the plot was harvested on 23 September and, as always, was aged in large French oak casks. Expressive scents of dark plum and baking spice emerge swiftly from the glass. This is powerfully fruited, full-figured and expansive. Accents of tar, leather and a pop of scorched orange peel add abundant intrigue. The tannins are smooth but teeth-coating and could do with some time to retreat. This promises much pleasure for years to come. | |
| Sassetti Livio, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Livio Sassetti was one of the founding members of the Brunello di Montalcino consorzio in 1967. Today, winemaking is in the hands of the fourth generation with his son Lorenzo at the helm. Unequivocally earthy and savoury in personality, this Riserva exhibits intense iron, leather and tar, with grilled rosemary and sage aromas in the background. The palate is muscular and firm yet somehow light on its feet. Dry, chalky tannins are substantial but leave space for wild berries and quite a succulent and mineral-driven core. In the spirit of Riserva, however, this needs time. | |
| Siro Pacenti, PS Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Paying homage to founder Pacenti Siro, PS is sourced from a 1.5-hectare plot which he planted in the early 1970s. Suitably restrained, it takes its time to open. Initial roasted, grilled notes speak to ageing in 100% new French oak barriques, but there is plenty more as it unfolds: sage, fennel and fragrant florals poke through. The palate is polished, sophisticated and buoyed by racy Sangiovese acidity. The tannins are chalky, almost clayey, as they cling to the palate, and it finishes with a stony, mineral-like sensation. Give this a few years for the tannins and oak to mellow and merge. | |
| Tassi, Franci Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 94 | Tassi’s Riserva comes from the estate’s Franci vineyard which was planted in 1979 with old Sangiovese clones. Located in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, it sits at 250 metres on clay soil with fine Galestro. The nose offers a mix of sweet and savoury spices intertwined with fragrant soil and leather. Dense and layered, it’s dripping with ripe black cherry and blackberry, with dried floral inner-mouth perfume and accents of sweet citrus. Soft, clayey tannins fill the mouth, while both texture and flavours linger on the finish. | |
| Rocca di Montegrossi, Vigneto San Marcellino Gran Selezione | Chianti (Classico) | 96 | Vigna San Marcellino is both youthfully fresh and maturely complex. It includes a healthy dose of the deeply coloured Pugnitello grape, and both this and the Sangiovese saw long post-fermentation macerations of over 30 days in 2016. Liquorice, tarragon and broom interlace with exuberant plum and understated toasted nuances that are seductive. Laden with black cherry and rich, velvety tannins, the palate is creamy in texture, while underlying chalkiness and saline minerality lend energy, leading to a sappy, refreshing finish. | |
| Monte Bernardi, Sa'etta Riserva | Chianti (Classico) | 95 | Michael Schmelzer’s Sa’etta is a single-vineyard bottling from 50-plus-year-old vines planted on Panzano’s pietraforte, a quartz-rich sandstone with hardened limestone. It plumbs Tuscany’s landscape unearthing baked clay, sundried fruit and fragrant garden herbs. It reaches earthy tea depths and cherry-scented heights. Terracotta-textured tannins wrap around the palate and a savoury, umami tang leaves you salivating. It displays exquisite Sangiovese purity and is so light on its feet. And it just keeps getting better in the glass. | |
| Fèlsina, Colonia Gran Selezione | Chianti (Classico) | 95 | Named for an ancient heliotherapy colony that once existed here, Colonia exudes its luminous location and stony, sunbaked, wild surroundings. Warm and generous with sundried tomato and cherry, grilled sage, iron and vanilla, this is unabashedly powerful while maintaining extraordinary balance. It absorbs its new-barrique ageing effortlessly, allowing a savoury, umami character to shine through. Ample dusty tannins coat the mouth but the finish is clean and energetic. | |
| Fontodi, Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione | Chianti (Classico) | 95 | Fontodi’s solo Gran Selezione, this sits shoulder to shoulder with the estate’s iconic SuperTuscan, Flaccianello. While the latter is a selection of grapes, Vigna del Sorbo comes from a single vineyard in the heart of Panzano; a warm, southwest-facing site on Galestro soil. Dense and concentrated, the 2017 articulates the vintage without slipping into over ripeness. The nose offers macerated black cherry, liquorice, bay leaf and smoky oak. Hefty and structured, it is firmly framed by muscular, compact tannins. A core of racy acidity carries blackcurrant, bitter chocolate and roasted coffee right through the finish. | |
| Castello di Monsanto, Il Poggio Gran Selezione | Chianti (Classico) | 95 | With vines ranging from 25 to 45 years old, Monsanto’s six-hectare Il Poggio site is divided into three parcels that ripen up to one week apart. They are vinified separately and assessed after ageing to determine what makes it into the final blend. While extroverted on the nose - expressing peppery juniper, tarragon and iron - Il Poggio 2016 is still rigid, firm and linear on the palate. Compact and full, it will need more time to unfold. For now, it hints evocatively at a stone-walled herb garden. Powerful and savoury with a sappy finish. | |
| Le Cinciole, Aluigi Gran Selezione | Chianti (Classico) | 95 | As of the 2016 vintage, Le Cinciole’s Aluigi bottling has been upgraded from Riserva to Gran Selezione. It hails from a single, southeast-facing vineyard between 430 to 450 metres, boasting a strong presence of limestone-rich clay over Panzano’s classic pietraforte bedrock. This has quite a wow-factor, with arresting aromas of yellow broom, wild thyme and dried citrus. The palate is very mineral-driven and firm, though elegant in size and structure. Vigorous stony tannins wrap around a succulent core, while accents of leather and liquorice ring out on the finish. | |
| Poggerino, Riserva | Chianti (Classico) | 94 | A selection of the smallest bunches from the estate’s oldest plot, Poggerino’s Riserva sees a long 50-day maceration and ageing in large Slavonian oak casks. It emerges from its shell with beguiling aromas of cedar, sandalwood, iron, smoke and wet stone, evoking the rocky, forest-encircled estate high up in Radda. The palate packs ample concentration with a sweet ripeness to the fruit and silky suppleness to the layered tannins. Youthful exuberance is currently masking its more subtle charms, but it shouldn’t take long to mellow into its groove. | |
| San Giusto a Rentennano, Baròncole Riserva | Chianti (Classico) | 94 | San Giusto’s Riserva is a selection of grapes based on ripeness as well as bunch and berry dimensions. In 2017, the estate managed to hold off harvesting until after the desperately needed, refreshing early-September rains. This has a lot of everything: intense aromas, ripe flavours, a weighty mouthfeel, rich fruit, dense chalky tannins, heady alcohol, and even concentrated acidity. Somehow, these are all gracefully aligned but it makes for a powerful package. Open according to your preference - I would prefer to wait another year, giving time for all the elements to mellow and meld further. | |
| L'Erta di Radda, Riserva | Chianti (Classico) | 94 | From a single-vineyard atop a hill in the middle of a valley, this windy site sees significant day and nighttime temperature differences and boasts an iron-rich soil. An understated wine with a savoury mineral character, this somewhat defies the vintage. Accents of forest brush, wild sage and sunbaked dusty earth are subtle. Midweight yet tight and firm, the palate offers inner-mouth perfume of pomegranate and orange. It's rather sneaky and energetic, with a mouthful of crushed stones on the finish. | |
| Val delle Corti, Riserva | Chianti (Classico) | 94 | Roberto Bianchi has produced a splendid 2017 Riserva, crafted from 40- to 45-year-old vines facing north to northeast at 450 metres above sea level in the cool reaches of Radda. Heather, truffles, red currants and iron waft attractively from the glass. It is slightly fleshier than usual but remains its lovely tactile self with long, sandy tannins. The core is juicy and saline, and ferrous notes repeat on the long finish, along with lingering peppery juniper. | |
| Castello di Volpaia, Puro Gran Selezione | Chianti (Classico) | 94 | Puro is a very slick package. It hails from a half-hectare plot planted in 2001 with a selection of 25 Sangiovese clones indigenous to the immediate area of Volpaia. The 2017 is enveloped in a polished sheen of oak owing to ageing in 100% new French Allier barriques, though this doesn’t dominate. Aromas of espresso and toast lead to blood, iron and dusty earth nuances. Compact and full, sweet blackberries and currants are wrapped in grainy wood and grippy grape tannins. It maintains admirable freshness despite the heat of the vintage. | |
| Le Miccine, Gran Selezione | Chianti (Classico) | 94 | In a high-altitude valley in Gaiole, surrounded by even higher hills, Le Miccine boasts a relatively fresh microclimate. Owner Paula Papini Cook divides her seven hectares into separate parcels according to the vintage. The Gran Selezione typically comes from the same southwest-facing plot each year. Beautifully fragrant and well-defined, the nose charms with strawberry, raspberry, lilac and violets. The mouthfilling ripe red fruit remains crunchy and vibrant while a stony, mineral undertow lends intrigue. The tannins are still a bit austere but the appetisingly succulent and chalky finish holds much promise. | |
| Istine, Vigna Cavarchione | Chianti (Classico) | 94 | Though firmly rooted in the township of Radda, Istine’s Angela Fronti slips into the neighbouring commune of Gaiole to craft this single-vineyard bottling. At 430 metres on rocky Galestro soil, the six-hectare site is planted entirely to Sangiovese. It exudes aromas of fennel, mint, tarragon and wild cherry, with blood orange and crushed stones on the palate. Though midweight, it has an extra layer of flesh compared to the classic annata. Firm, chalky tannins expand across the palate giving an assertive grip, with a slightly salty finish. | |
| Boscarelli, Costa Grande | Vino Nobile di Montepulciano | 94 | One of four single vineyard bottlings, Costa Grande hails from a 1.5-hectare plot in Boscarelli’s north-facing Vigna Grande site. Only 400 metres from the vineyards that surround the estate, it sits 100 metres higher in altitude on predominantly red clay. Extraordinarily focused, it marries leather and tar with rose, pomegranate and orange oil. Lovely fruit purity gets an extra boost from the succulent acidity. Linear tannins are fine and framing providing a confident grip. Definitely one of the top wines of this challenging vintage. |