Storm, John Sebastiano Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County, California, USA 2014

South African winemaker Ernst Storm (whose brother Hannes makes wine in Hemel-en-Aarde) moved to California in 2003 to make cool-climate wines in Santa Barbara and started up his eponymous label three years later, prioritising organic farming and a hands-off approach in the winery. Picked early and using 25% whole-cluster bunches to retain freshness, it has a gorgeous perfume of dark raspberry, autumn leaves and exotic spices, while the complex palate shows grippy black tea tannins, crunchy red berry fruit, bouquet garni and almost a smoky bacon hint. Excellent acid drive, a long, supple finish and good structure from a year's ageing in barrel, 30% new.