A guide to Bordeaux's intriguing vintages ending in '6'

In recent years we have examined the decennial anniversaries of Bordeaux vintages that have yielded a broad spectrum of success from the ‘unlucky number 4’ to the spectacular ‘rule of 5’.

This year, looking back at vintages ending in ‘6’ has been far more interesting than I imagined at first glance.

Sadly, for any ‘experienced’ Decanter readers emanating from the 1956, 1946 or 1936 vintages, the news is not great.

Although I’m sure there are drinkable examples, they are few and far between.

However, if you are receiving your letter from the King this year and have the wherewithal to be opening a venerable old claret from 1926, you are blessed with one of the finest vintages of the era.

2016

So much has been spoken about 2016, many believing that it may ultimately surpass its peers as the finest vintage of all.

Indeed, tasting over 80 of the top wines earlier this year at 10 years of age, the consistency and uniform quality was sublime.

There is an argument to put forward that the very apex of the vintage does not stack up to that of a handful of others, but we are splitting hairs.

The 2016s are, across the board, impeccably balanced and wines that will stand the test of time.

All of the producers you expect to have hit grand slam home runs have done exactly that, but special mention should go to both Durfort Vivens and Calon Ségur for producing arguably their greatest wines ever.

From top to bottom, buy everything you can within your means.

2006

Often a vintage that splits opinion, but one I personally love.

The right bank is, in some cases, superior to 2006 while the left bank wines are linear and generally very well made.

I wouldn’t suggest that it is a vintage that will satisfy the hedonists but it’s a haven (particularly in terms of price) for traditional claret lovers that want a little more ‘oomph’ than can be found in 2004 and 2007.

The wine of the vintage is undoubtedly Mouton Rothschild which made a wine that vies for the best of the decade against 2000, 2005 and 2009.

On the right bank La Conseillante punches well above its weight alongside glorious expressions of both Cheval Blanc and Le Pin.

1996

An out and out left bank vintage, and the finest of the decade at that. The wines east of the Gironde leave a little to be desired although it is far from a disaster in St-Emilion and Pomerol.

From the Médoc, almost everything was exceptional and stylistically typical examples of the respective appellations.

Depending if you crave power or elegance, respectively Latour and Lafite are the wines of the vintage with Pichon Comtesse following closely behind.

If it’s quintessential Pauillac you are after then Batailley, Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Lynch-Bages offer exactly that at varying levels.

Léoville Las Cases is a world beating wine that is backward and still needs time whereas, further north in St-Estèphe, Montrose and Calon Ségur are both ‘a point’ right now.

For readers wedded to 1996, I’d urge you to experiment with well-stored bottles at all levels from the Médoc and you will rarely be disappointed.

1986

To my mind 1986 is a vintage that was somewhat misjudged. Not because the quality is not generally exceptional, but because the initial expectations and predictions for greatness were misguided.

Let’s be clear, there are wines here like Mouton Rothschild, Lafite Rothschild and Léoville Las Cases that are world beating mature clarets and deliver as such, but the structured nature of the vintage has meant that many lesser wines have simply never had the fruit concentration to outlive the tannin.

Some wines are dry and austere, some are still shut for business, waiting to emerge (or not!) from their 40-year slumber, that said, the very best wines are built to last a century.

Margaux and Palmer further south should be included in that bracket. Without breaking the bank Gruaud-Larose, Pichon Comtesse, Talbot and Lynch-Bages are all exceptional on the left bank.

And, while pickings are much slimmer on the right bank, I have always had a soft spot for Vieux Château Certan.

1976

Anyone born in the UK before 1960 will immediately volunteer in any conversation around 1976 that it was famously ‘the hottest year on record’.

The fact that very few people could proffer almost any other historical meteorological facts serves only to emphasise the gravitas of this infamous vintage.

Although achieving ripeness in the 1970s in Bordeaux was a genuine concern, heat of this nature was equally unwelcome.

There are good examples of 1976, but sadly no great wines produced outside Sauternes. A recent bottle of Duhart-Milon was delicious if not profound. Similarly, it’s big brother, Lafite Rothschild.

On the right bank Cheval Blanc is, I suspect, the finest example, and both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion are both very acceptable.

The wine of the vintage is, without question, Yquem, an almost perfect wine. Alongside the undisputed heavyweight, Climens and Coutet are exceptional.

I’d suggest anything from Sauternes or Barsac that is well stored will still be wonderful.

1966

1966 is a vintage often overshadowed by other superb or, in the case of 1961, legendary vintages in the decade.

It is a vintage of great homogeneity. You will rarely find a wine to rival 1961 or indeed 1964 on the right bank but almost everyone made solid wines that have aged very well.

If this World Cup winning vintage is special to you, then I suggest seeking out a bottle from any château you love in more recent years.

For the sake of specifics, Latour is the wine of the vintage. Its neighbours, Pichon Comtesse and Léoville Las Cases are also stunning.

Gruaud-Larose, Lafite Rothschild, Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion and Cos d’Estournel come to mind as great examples of mature Bordeaux still drinking beautifully.

Cheval Blanc in St-Emilion would be my pick on the right bank and pushes Latour for the very best wine produced in this landmark year.

I also have a very fond recollection of a magnum of Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1966 which was outstanding, as is so much in Sauternes, especially when it is this mature.

If only it were more popular…

Best Bordeaux wines ending in 6

Wines are listed youngest to oldest

Related articles