International Riesling Day: American style
On International Riesling Day, Decanter’s US editor shares some of the best Rieslings from the United States.
Riesling’s homeland is, of course, Germany, where it all started. Likely a descendant of wild grape vines growing in the Rheingau region, Riesling was first noted in 1435 and recorded as ‘Riesslingen’ in a record of a sale of grape vines made on 13 March of that year. As a result, the date has been designated as the variety’s unofficial birthday and decreed International Riesling Day.
Riesling’s fortunes rose and fell throughout the centuries. It had its moments; in the 18th century, based on a decree made in the Mosel Valley, all grape vines were removed and replaced with Riesling. In the 19th century, its prominence rose to equal that of Bordeaux and Burgundy.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 25 American Rieslings from US editor Clive Pursehouse
The First and Second World Wars devastated German vineyards and, along with them, the fortune of Riesling. It wasn’t until 500 years after Riesling’s ‘birthday’ that America’s Riesling revival began on the shores of New York’s Finger Lakes.
Born in the USA
There was a lot of Riesling being made in the US before Prohibition, having been brought over by German immigrants in the latter part of the 19th century. Like much of America’s pre-Prohibition wine history, the finer points have been lost.
In 1958 Dr Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant with a PhD in growing wine grapes in cooler climates, planted Riesling on the western shore of New York’s Keuka Lake.
His vision would launch New York’s modern fine wine production, particularly the state’s Finger Lakes reputation for producing world-class Riesling.
Despite modern American Riesling’s connection to New York, Washington State produces and grows more Riesling than any other state in the nation. First planted in the Yakima Valley in the late 1960s, the state now has over 2,100ha of Riesling vines. It was spearheaded by Chateau Ste Michelle, the largest single Riesling producer in the world.
Riesling in the Empire State
No region in the United States is as synonymous with Riesling as New York’s Finger Lakes. There are 405ha of Riesling vines planted in the Finger Lakes region, where more than 130 wineries produce 1,200,000 bottles a year. Riesling is the wine with which this region’s reputation has been built.
‘It could be argued that Riesling is an “underdog” variety,’ says Meaghan Frank, great-granddaughter of Konstantin Frank. ‘It is often misunderstood and not mainstream like Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. The history of the Finger Lakes also aligns with this idea. With very few exceptions, we are a region of small family farms with little outside investment.
‘Though our winemaking story begins in the mid-19th century,’ Frank continues, ‘we haven’t had the fast growth of other domestic regions. Because of this, we have been able to experiment freely. This is especially true when it comes to Riesling.
‘Today there is incredible experimentation with Finger Lakes producers seeking out different aspects and soil types in the vineyard and winemaking techniques like skin contact and extended lees ageing. That’s why in the Finger Lakes, few wineries do not produce a Riesling, and really only a few make just one style.’
Washington and the world’s Riesling giant
Riesling is also immensely important to Washington’s wine industry and the big label that got Washington wine off the ground: Chateau Ste Michelle.
‘Riesling put Chateau Ste Michelle on the map,’ says Katie Nelson, vice president of winemaking at the estate – the largest single Riesling producer in the world. ‘We’ve been passionate about Riesling for over 50 years and our goal is to showcase the quality and diversity that Riesling is capable of. We make up to nine different Rieslings from bone dry to decadently sweet to show off Riesling’s stylistic range. Our partnership with Ernst Loosen of Germany on Eroica has helped shape how we grow Riesling in Washington,’ she adds.
Ste Michelle is far from the state’s only Riesling producer. While the first Rieslings were planted here in 1967, the variety has a strong future. Its cooler region, the Ancient Lakes AVA, produces brilliant Rieslings, year after year, for various producers.
California Riesling in the Napa Valley and beyond
Along with Trefethen and Stony Hill, Smith-Madrone is seen as one of the variety’s pioneers in Napa’s Cabernet country.
‘There are very few producers of Riesling today in the Napa AVA because so many producers didn’t, and don’t know, how to make it,’ says Stu Smith of Smith-Madrone. ‘They don’t understand that our steep volcanic soils and warmer climate produce a slightly different grape from northern Europe and that to get the best out of the varietal, it cannot be made as it is made there,’ he adds.
Many of the Rieslings in California are made in a riper, slightly phenolic style. Trefethen aims for a Riesling that captures the variety’s aromatics. ‘Our style of Riesling hasn’t changed since we started making this wine in 1974,’ says Hailey Trefethen.
‘Riesling has incredible aromatics and flavours; we aim to preserve and capture those. We use a low and cold fermentation to capture all aromas in the bottle. Aiming for freshness, bright acidity, citrus and stone fruit flavours, and a nice chalky mineral texture. We time our picks based on acidity and flavours typically yielding wines with a final alcohol below 13%,’ she adds.
In Santa Barbara County, Graham Tatomer leads the way with Rieslings of savoury and saline character. The Tatomer wines are made in a style reminiscent of Austria for his eponymous Tatomer label. His devotion to Riesling and Grüner Veltliner offers great promise for uncommon varieties in California.
Oregon’s great Riesling terroir
The cool maritime influence that makes the Willamette Valley such a beautiful place for Pinot Noir makes it a brilliant match for Riesling. While Riesling might struggle for attention owing to the success of Pinot and the rising popularity of Oregon’s Chardonnay, it may succeed in the Willamette better than anywhere else on the West Coast.
The founding father of the Willamette Valley, David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards, did not plant Riesling. But several vintners who followed closely on his heels did. As a result, there are many old vine sites where Riesling vines are nearing their fourth and fifth decades.
Those older vines, the varied soil types of the Coast Range foothills alongside a cool climate make for some brilliant Riesling potential. Perhaps the two most prominent devotees of Riesling – Brooks Winery and Trisaetum – are perennially responsible for some of the best examples in the Valley.
Martin Woods’ winemaker Evan Martin has been making Riesling since the 2015 vintage and does so masterfully. From dry to botrytis-tinged iterations to off-dry classics. Martin and many of the Valley’s next generation have embraced Riesling’s potential as one of the best matches for the Willamette Valley.
American Riesling – varied and distinctive – shows the country’s various terroirs and styles. It does so across the country’s diverse wine regions. For enthusiasts, there is something for everyone when it comes to Riesling American style.
25 American Rieslings to try
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Martin Woods, Hyland Vineyard Riesling, Willamette Valley, McMinnville, Oregon, USA, 2019
95
Lushly fruited Riesling from Evan Martin's deft winemaking hand. From own-rooted vines dating to 1973 in the Hyland Block. Beautifully aromatic with fruit and floral character backed by ample stony minerality and notes of petrol. Aromas of pear, peach, and Kaffir lime comingle. The palate is lush and alive. Fruit and stone mineral elements predominate a textured palate that shows age but depth. Beeswax, flint and ripe Bosc pears lead to a finish that lasts forever.
2019
Martin WoodsWillamette Valley
Tatomer, Kick-On Ranch Riesling, Clone 239, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2020
95
Austrian-influenced, Tatomer is the new face of California's Riesling potential. These are bone-dry, thirst-slaking wines, edgy and lean. The Westerly winds buffet Kick-On Ranch near Los Alamos, creating wines of wonderful verve and complexity: Savoury aromatics, dried thyme, crushed chalk and flint. The palate is edgy and bright, with streaks of wet slate, savoury herbs, beeswax and lemon zest. The finish zips with bright acid.
2020
TatomerSanta Barbara County
Brooks, Hyland Vineyard Riesling, Willamette Valley, McMinville, Oregon, USA, 2018
94
Medium-sweet in style, this wine is simply beautiful. Sourced from one of the older Willamette Valley vineyards at about 250m in Oregon's Coast Range. Aromas of candied ginger, lemon meringue and crushed stone show a compelling old-world character in this wine. The palate offers lanolin, honeyed pear, and ripe pineapple. Brooks shows why they continue to be the state's top Riesling label with this elegant wine.
2018
BrooksWillamette Valley
Hermann J. Wiemer, HJW Bio Riesling, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake, New York State, USA, 2020
94
Wildflower aromatics and juicy grilled peaches and pineapples intermingle with lemon pulp, lime zest and honeyed ginger. An exceptional example of the fruit-forward Rieslings from the epic 2020 vintage. Biodynamic.
2020
Hermann J. WiemerFinger Lakes
Martin Woods, Hyland Vineyard-Noble Rot Riesling, Willamette Valley, McMinnville, Oregon, USA, 2021
93
<p>A botrytis bottling of the Martin Woods Riesling, clocking in at 80g/L, brings forward honeyed aromatics of nutmeg, baked pear and baking spice. Even with an October 8, harvest date 90% of this block was affected by botrytis. Making for a wonderfully rich wine that winemaker weaves together masterfully. The richness finds balance in bright acidity. The palate is beautifully honeyed with candied ginger, apple turnover and Jamaican allspice. Deliciously rich, opulent, and with a lovely mouth-filling depth. </p>
2021
Martin WoodsWillamette Valley
Appassionata, Riesling GG, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains, Oregon, USA, 2017
94
If you prefer a thinking person's wine you'll run out of superlatives to describe this Riesling from Dr Loosen's Oregon project with J Christopher Wines. From a personal favourite, the old vines of the Medici Vineyard, the winemaking shows serious patience and determination. Fermented in a 3,000-liter, neutral oak German Fuder cask. It rests on the full lees for two years and is then held in bottle for three to five years before release. Aged, savoury and delicious. Aromas are savoury and saline. Lanolin, dandelion, seafoam, and beeswax with hints of fresh herbs and dried lemon peel. The palate is brilliant, savoury and bright and complex. Energetic flavours of wet slate, savoury bee pollen, white tea and lanolin notes. The finish offers crushed stone vibrancy.
2017
AppassionataWillamette Valley
Chateau Ste Michelle & Dr Loosen, Eroica, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA, 2021
93
Delicious off-dry style from two of the biggest names in Riesling Ste Michelle and Dr Loosen. The Eroica shows what is possible in Washington Riesling. Elegance comes to the fore with lively, rich aromatics of pine sap, ripe lemon and cut peaches, along with streaks of stony minerality. The palate is lush. Flavours of honeycomb, grilled peaches and cardamom. Wonderfully rich and balanced with lively acid.
2021
Chateau Ste Michelle & Dr LoosenColumbia Valley
Côte Bonneville, Dubrul Vineyard Riesling, Yakima Valley, Washington, USA, 2021
94
<p>A very nicely done off-dry rendition from a single vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Dubrul Vineyard was planted in the early 1990s by the Shiels family on rocky slopes. Scents of Braeburn apple, wet slate and petrichor introduce a wine that plays between lively and rich. Beautiful white stone fruit predominates, with fleshy apricot and peach accented by honey, cardamom and candied ginger.</p>
2021
Côte BonnevilleYakima Valley
Forge Cellars, Dry Riesling Caywood Vineyard, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2020
93
Delicious. From the Caywood Vineyard, planted in the 1970s, this wine offers depth, complexity, and vibrancy. Aromatics are classic, petrol, gunpowder minerality, and ripe stone fruits carry through. The palate is rich, with ripe pear and peach flavours, and some saline characters intermingle with beeswax and fresh lime. There is a finish that seems to go on forever.
2020
Forge CellarsFinger Lakes
Long Shadows, Poet's Leap Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA, 2021
93
Beautifully balanced this wine walks a tightrope between soaring acidity and lush richness; from a perennial top producer of Riesling in the state. Aromas are intense, candied ginger and lemon zest white flower and crushed stone introduce a wine of lush texture. The palate is rich, yet edgy. Flavours of grilled peach, white tea, and clover honey. Gorgeous.
2021
Long ShadowsColumbia Valley
Trisaetum, Coast Range Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon, USA, 2021
93
A marvellous dry Riesling from one of Oregon's Riesling devotees from Coast Range vineyards. Sea air hints and cut early-season peach aromas introduce a wine of fresh elegance. The linear, edgy palate is accented by apricot skin, lime zest, and crushed oyster shells. The finish emphasizes verve and energy, a brilliant Riesling to pair with any dish.
2021
TrisaetumWillamette Valley
Anam Cara Cellars, Dry Riesling Nicholas Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains, Oregon, USA, 2015
92
Rich, aged Riesling aromatics that are classic in style. Petrol notes are present on the nose, along with savoury herbs and ripe stone fruit. This warm vintage offers plenty of ripeness and forward character. This cool site in the north end of the Willamette Valley is planted on a former nut orchard. The palate is marked by savoury character and wonderful acidity eight years on. Kumquat, quince paste and pear accent a palate marked by waxy and nutty notes.
2015
Anam Cara CellarsWillamette Valley
Anne Amie Vineyards, Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon, USA, 2017
92
An opulently aromatic Riesling from the Anne Amie estate vines in the Willamette's Yamhill Carlton AVA. Expressive aromas of honeycomb, tangerine skins and wet stone lead to a palate with plenty of richness. Flavours of juicy grapefruit, and mint, are accented by rich texture owing to the wine's slow fermentation. The palate is filled with a long finish that highlights richness yet balances it with brilliant acidity.
2017
Anne Amie VineyardsWillamette Valley
Dr Konstantin Frank, Margrit Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2020
92
A dry Riesling with body from America's founding Riesling brand, their Seneca Estate block 3. The elevation of the site, along with the proximity to the large lake, creates a brilliant terroir that this wine expresses. Mineral-driven aromas of wet slate, petrichor and talc are underlined with hints of lemon zest and peach skin. The palate is lively and lush. Fleshy stone fruit flavours, fresh mint and beeswax, integrate with a lovely savoury herbal note. The finish is fresh, long-lived and distinguished.
2020
Dr Konstantin FrankFinger Lakes
Figgins, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, USA, 2022
92
This Walla Walla wine delivers on balance, striking a note between lean angularity and fleshy ripe fruit. Aromatics of Meyer lemon, ripe apricot and jasmine introduce a palate that leans into richness. Flavours of honeycomb, quince and redolent peach flavours predominate. There are notes of smoky flint minerality and a long textured finish.
2022
FigginsColumbia Valley
Hillick & Hobbs, Estate Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake, New York State, USA, 2019
92
An impressive first wine from the young vines on steep slopes on the southeast side of Seneca Lake. Winemaker Paul Hobbs' foray into the Finger Lakes results in an outstanding first wine. Aromatically complex beyond its youth, this wine offers up spice, cardamom and fresh pear. The palate is alive with Braeburn apple skin and hints of sophistication with petrol notes. There is lime zest, a steely finish that compliments a rich, waxy texture.
2019
Hillick & HobbsFinger Lakes
Marietta, Nadi Wirz Vineyard Riesling, San Benito County, Cienega Valley, California, USA, 2021
92
From a vineyard in the Gabilan Mountains comes Marietta's dry Riesling of the Cienega Valley. A nice balance of savoury character and bright fruits; aromas of briny sea air mingle with crushed chalk, Keffir lime leaves, and citrus peel. The palate is bright, lively and textured—oyster shell, apricot skin and fresh mint flavours. The finish is long, lifted and alive.
2021
MariettaSan Benito County
Ravines, Dry Riesling Estate Grown, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2019
92
A very pretty dry Riesling from the Seneca Lake producer providing consistent quality. Aromatics of dandelion, cut grass and cardamom lead into peach skin and grapefruit pith. The palate is lean, yet balanced with plenty of savoury depth. Notes of smoky flint, almond skin and beeswax all combine in a palate of rich brightness. The finish emphasizes wet stone, bee pollen and lanolin.
2019
RavinesFinger Lakes
Tatomer, Vandenberg Riesling, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2020
92
Tatomer's Vandenberg bottling is a blend of various vineyards in Santa Barbara County, including a couple with some botrytis. This is a bone-dry Riesling and a wonderful one at that. Sea air salinity marks the aromatics along with early-season apricot and fresh herbs. The palate is lively, marked by white pepper, lemon zest, beeswax and Keffir lime.
2020
TatomerSanta Barbara County
Trefethen Family Vineyards, Dry Riesling, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll, California, USA, 2022
92
Trefethen is one of Napa's pioneers of the variety. Done in a sleek style, this wine's aromatics take a bit of time to make an appearance, showing light floral and citrus aromas. The palate is energetic and appealing. Flavours of key lime and wet stone minerality are backed further by a wonderful salinity.
2022
Trefethen Family VineyardsNapa Valley
Weis Vineyards, Winzer Select Riesling A, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2021
92
In a style reminiscent of Auselese this is a fleshy Riesling with rich aromatics. Partial botrytis in the harvest leads fantastic balance between sweetness and acidity. Aromas of sweet clover honey, grilled peaches and pineapple give way to fresh mint. The palate brings serious richness. Flavours of candied ginger, candied lemon peel and honeycomb are balanced by a spicy zest that carries to the finish.
2021
Weis VineyardsFinger Lakes
Canvasback, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Royal Slope, Washington, USA, 2021
91
Sourced from high-elevation vineyards in the Royal Slope AVA, this Riesling is bone dry and loaded with citrus and floral aromatics. Notes of acacia flower, dusty spice, Mexcian lime and wet slate come to the fore. The palate is bright yet balanced. Early-season apricots mix with peach fuzz,
2021
CanvasbackColumbia Valley
Hosmer Winery, Riesling Ice Wine, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2019
91
A cold November 12 evening in 2019 produced Hosmer's first ice wine in 20 years. This rich wine has aromas of candied orange peel, baked apple pie and nutmeg. The palate is rich, viscous and loaded with candied citrus flavours. Honey pear is lifted by great candied lemon notes creating an outstanding balance—a perfect ending to a meal, whether a cold evening or not.
2019
Hosmer WineryFinger Lakes
Libertine Wines, Death & Rebirth NV Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
92
A wild Riesling born of a shortage of bottles resulted in a half-barrel of leftover wine that was allowed to develop a flor yeast. Subsequent vintages have been added to create Oregon's (perhaps the world's) only solera-style Riesling. Oxidised and well beyond the ordinary, Death & Rebirth shows what's possible when you allow fate to guide you—aromas of peach skin, the subtle funkiness of Belgian Gueze, cheese rind and fresh mint. The palate is reminiscent of a freshly opened Cantillon. Briny, with flavours of Braeburn apple, spicy fermented notes and a textured finish.
Libertine WinesWillamette Valley
Smith-Madrone, Riesling, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain, California, USA, 2018
91
Classic Riesling aromatics of petrol, tropical fruit and petrichor. Stu Smith is one of the founding fathers of the variety in California's Napa Valley, choosing east-facing slopes for his Riesling vines. The wine offers ample ripeness, with tropical fruits, zesty lime, fleshy ripe peach, and some phenolic notes on the palate.
2018
Smith-MadroneNapa Valley
